Neighbours house got broken into the other day via the garage side door. I’m happy with the level of security I’ve got on my side door as I’ve added additinal deadbolts and the door is sold, would be very hard to kick in.
I’d like to add some deadbolts to my up and over garage door at the bottom to prevent the door from being peeled open, but at the same time I don’t want to advertise the extra security to anyone walking past.
All the deadbolts I’ve seen will leave some form of trace on the outside, be it bolts or opening for keys to unlock.

Any suggestions or ideas. I don’t mind if it becomes more or a chore to open the garage door as I don’t open the door often.

At my last house I coach bolted a 90deg hasp to the door, looked sort of normal.

That would leave the dome side to be seen from the exterior I presume?

Maybe I’m being too picky about having the security totaly stealth from the outside. I just don’t wish to advertise my garage has increased security in case some scrote notices and wonders what’s in my garage.

Our up and over garage door has bolts at top and bottom, as well as the central (toy) lock. Window is barred. The door, interestingly, probably is the least secure!

Can you just fit bolts inside?

I had additional bolts and pad locks either side on the bottom of my garage door. Inside I had a punch bag frame of 80mm square steel box section concreted into the ground and 3no. types of locks securing the bike to this frame.

Woke up one morning, locks on garage door ripped off and punch bag frame cut to pieces so they could take the bike away with the locks still attached. No-one heard a thing all night.

The only diffence from any other night was that the the first night I hadn’t parked the car tight up to the garage.

In short – if they want your bike they’re going to get it unfortunately. 🙁

EDIT: and forgot to mention that the garage door was so badly damaged it had to be replaced as well.

An idea I’ve seen is drilling several holes between the up&over door sides and the garage and then using tent pegs as bolts. Not great if you use it a lot but good otherwise.

You could epoxy a plate/plank to the inside of the door and fix pacri bolts or similar.

I like the idea of bolts through the bottom lip of the garage door then into the floor

If you want to be able to access from the outside at all, there will have to be some visible key hole.

This type is quite good as its mounted low down, and only a tiny round key hole visible from outside.

The garage door cannot open if the top of it is blocked from the inside.

Place a large 3×3 plank across it from the inside at the top, wall to wall on some brackets.

Then drill the holes at the bottom through the door into the door frame and put 6 inch screws or nails through.

But as stated, they will get in if they want.

I would also hook it up to your house alarm, get a sensor on the door and/or a movement sensor in the garage.

On a similar theme, I managed to lock myself INSIDE my garage a few weeks ago! Internal door closed behind me and nobody in the house. I had to remove the deadbolt locks to get out.

A tripwire to a shotgun is my first line of defense now.

On my steel up and over door I rivetted regar sliding bolts onto an inner flap on the door, as the door is opened it moves slightly and the bolts hit the door frame.

Seems like it should be fairly effective to me and nothing is visible externally, the limitation being that it can only be unlocked from the inside.

Ive bolted mine to the floor, sides and top. Easily removed to get in and out if need be

Lost my garage keys and had to get a locksmith in.

9 secs…9secs it took to pick it! Scared me shi*less and cost me £93!!

secure some either 2/1 timber down the back of the door, or even better some 1 inch box section, but it does add to the weight of the door.

I’ve got some of these.

They make a massive difference, and while it would ultimately be possible to beat them, it would take a fair bit of noise and effort. If you paint the bolts and keyhole cover the same colour as the door they aren’t too obvious.

clubber – Member

An idea I’ve seen is drilling several holes between the up&over door sides and the garage and then using tent pegs as bolts. Not great if you use it a lot but good otherwise.

Something similar here – up and over door with M12 free bolts that go either side into D rings in the wall. They’re enough to hold the bottom firm against an opportunist and easy to manage. The other thing is to take the wire off the handle of the door, so the top plunger is not controlled by the door handle. This obviously only works on an integral garage, but these two, plus my burglar alarm, the ground anchor + lock combo on the individual bikes and next door’s Doberman with its bat like hearing, loud bark and large teeth make me feel slightly better at night.