• This topic has 9 replies, 5 voices, and was last updated 10 years ago by Bez.
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  • Full guards on a road bike with no eyelets?
  • Bez
    Full Member

    Before anyone suggests Cruds or Raceblades: I know, but they both have some key flaws and I’m asking about full guards. I’m fully acquainted with all three types, I’m just interested in fitting full SKS guards (which I already use on other bikes) to a frameset with no eyelets.

    Now, clearly this is possible as this picture shows. Looks like P-clips (which I already have) on the seatstays and some sort of clip that I can’t quite make out on the fork:
    http://s43.photobucket.com/user/Deanoldo/media/Biking/IMG_0595.jpg.html
    (My frame is a CAAD9 with the stock Ultra fork, BTW. Buying a new fork is not out of the question, but I’d rather not.)

    Mounting at the fork crown and rear caliper bridge is fine; mounting at the chainstays looks straightforward. Any tips on the fork blade mounting, and the BB mounting? (the CAAD9 has no chainstay bridge; I’ve seen a bike on the train which used a rubber strap of some sort at this point – not sure how sturdy this is)

    I’m sure I can make it functionally work, but any tips from actual experience to avoid lots of trial-and-error would be appreciated: if it works but is a bit wobbly and keeps knocking the tyre or rattling at the BB then it’ll drive me nuts, and I don’t want it slowly chewing a hole in the chainstay either. I’d really like to get it set up just as solidly as the same setup on my eyeletted winter bike.

    Cheers.

    mattsccm
    Free Member

    Forks are easy. Make 2 straps out of thick rubber. Wrap round bottom of fork and rill hole close to fork. Bolt through hole and fork stay. Tape fork if worried about rubs.
    At the back I use an old bracket that was meant to hold a rear down tube shifter. Goes around seat tube under the mech. It then has a threaded tube pointing to the rear wheel. Bolt, spaced accordingly through mudguard. At the bottom of the seat stays I use the little plastic brackets that hold rear lights. They were free, P clips cost 25p

    Bez
    Full Member

    Forks are easy. Make 2 straps out of thick rubber. Wrap round bottom of fork and rill hole close to fork. Bolt through hole and fork stay.

    Wouldn’t that slowly (or quickly) work its way down the tapered leg?

    Shifter band for the seat tube sounds promising – I’ll investigate that. Ta.

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    cynic-al
    Free Member

    Zip ties round chainstays or one round seat tube where they meet.

    P-clips on stays and forks right at the fork end (Cateye light bracket clamps work well on round stays also)

    Fitted many this way, worked fine, I suspect you may be looking for the ultimate fixing though, given the level of detail in your OP.

    thisisnotaspoon
    Free Member

    My tourers guards (chromoplastics) are attached to the chainstay by a wine cork to space it out from the seatube and some zip ties.

    Ive got raceblade longs ony CAAD4, how are you getting guards through the callipers, theres barely clerance for raceblades?

    Bez
    Full Member

    I still need to check clearance by borrowing the guards off t’other bike. That one has short-reach calipers too and is fairly tight itself front and rear, with 25s. The CAAD has 23s which gives me a second layer of of fag paper to play with unless the fork crown is particularly oppressive 🙂

    LS
    Free Member

    SKS guards on here. Old plastic P-clip computer mounts used for the fork legs, and a front mech roller band round the seat tube. Drilled the guard in the appropriate place and bolted though it into the tapped hole in the band. Easy!

    Bez
    Full Member

    That looks like just the job. I was pondering Cateye light brackets for the forks – I’ll keep an eye out for computer mounts too. Thanks.

    thisisnotaspoon
    Free Member

    I still need to check clearance by borrowing the guards off t’other bike. That one has short-reach calipers too and is fairly tight itself front and rear, with 25s. The CAAD has 23s which gives me a second layer of of fag paper to play with unless the fork crown is particularly oppressive

    Front is fine on mine, oodles of clerance, the rear rubs the raceblades brackets with 25mm tyres though. Suppose you could always cut a section out each side and attach it to the brake calliper with a zip tie like crud guards. That was my plan for the raceblades to gain another mm or so, remove the bracket and replace with some mecano, then zip tie it through the calliper.

    Post up some pics if it works, I’d be tempted next winter to extend the rear right down to the BB. Although I could just cut a section off the chromoplastics, and glue it onto the raceblade mount.

    Bez
    Full Member

    Front is fine on mine, oodles of clerance …

    Good stuff. Thought I recalled there being plenty of room.

    … the rear rubs the raceblades brackets with 25mm tyres though. Suppose you could always cut a section out each side and attach it to the brake calliper with a zip tie like crud guards. That was my plan for the raceblades to gain another mm or so, remove the bracket and replace with some mecano, then zip tie it through the calliper.

    My plan for the rear if clearance is an issue was going to be to either (a) use an internally-threaded caliper nut and space the crimp bracket back from the caliper so it’s safely forward of the stays, or – more likely – (b) replace the crimp bracket with an L-shaped plate, drill the guard and use some low-profile bolts through it.

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