Viewing 11 posts - 1 through 11 (of 11 total)
  • Framing a decent print – does it have to/should it be stuck down?
  • slimjim78
    Free Member

    I’ve used a local frame shop to mount my last few prints and the end result looks good, prints are nicely fixed behind the glass and under a coloured mount. However, despite conversations with the shop at the time the only way to ensure a decent job was to mount the actual print to the backing board with acid free double sided tape.
    Although I’d rather the prints were simply captured within the frame without being (semi)permanently fixed, im OK with this method of taping up till now.

    So, I now want to mount my pride n joy print which whilst isn’t mega pricey it still set me back a couple hundred. It also has a lovely stamped logo on the reverse which I’d like to preserve. In this case, I want to avoid fixing the print down to the backing board if at all possible. Local frame shop mentioned a ‘Japanese butterfly’ method, which is used to frame antique documents etc – but isn’t seemingly something they do very often if at all.
    Question to you lot – are there any methods of framing that don’t require a permanent fix within the frame but would prevent any slippage etc of the print when mounted?

    Long winded explanation but hopefully it makes sense?!

    cyclingweakly
    Free Member

    What you’re after is a “platform mount”. The print sits in an aperture and is sandwiched in place by a backing board and the front window mount. 100% reversible and conservation standard.

    It’s suitable for most work as long as it’s not too big/heavy (the piece can sag in its pocket, but most framers go for a standard hinge as it’s easier and uses less materials.

    You shouldn’t hinge onto the window mount though, you should form a ‘T’ with your hinging tape and attach it to an acid-free backing or barrier board.

    The choice of tape should really be dictated by the weight, value and material of the piece. Linen is used for most work, but it’s generally much stronger than paper, so if the picture jumps off the wall, the paper can rip. The tape should be chosen so it fails before the paper.

    The method your framer is referring to sounds like float mounting – this leaves all the edges of the art visible, but it’s not 100% reversible unless you use starch paste/tissue hinges.

    binners
    Full Member

    You’ll be wanting some of these

    I’ve got two A1 silk screen prints on pretty heavy gloss artboard held in place within the frame with these. After about 5 years, the bottom 2 gave way. I stuck another pair on, they’re still there now

    cyclingweakly
    Free Member

    The problem with anything self-adhesive is that it has a shelf life… As Binners discovered! The adhesive hardens and they fail.

    The other downsides of those thinks is that you have to lose around 10mm of image or border to hide them, and the whole weight of the piece is supported by 2 very small contact patches.

    There is no adhesive used on a platform mount – the print is supported along the entire lower edge, and can’t slip. Ever.

    Plus, a platform mount costs nothing more than the price of the board, which you use anyway!

    jambalaya
    Free Member

    No, no need to stick to a board and often framers will advise against. Mounting board behind held in with small clips is the way to go imho

    WillH
    Full Member

    There is nothing too obscure for the hive mind to have expert knowledge of!

    slimjim78
    Free Member

    Indeed, worryingly, I come to this bunch to answer pretty much all my musings

    binners
    Full Member

    I frame a lot of prints. To be honest with you I don’t fanny around with any of that nonsense any more. I’ve tried pretty much everything, and the best way to mount anything is with this…

    mounted on to 5mm foam board – it sticks like shit to a blanket on that stuff – then put in the frame. Window mount optional

    cyclingweakly
    Free Member

    Spray mount is the easiest way to make a valuable print worthless!

    It’s got a very short lifespan too, so great for display work, not so great for framing. It also contains lots of noxious nasties that damage artwork, board etc.

    We use “dry mounting” for low value stuff that needs bonding to a flat substrate – adhesive tissue is sandwiched between the artwork and display board. It’s then heated in a vacuum press and it all bonds together.

    It’s non reversible, but it’s the best way to flatten, bond and laminate work.

    As for clips mentioned above, again, not necessary. Just ask your framer to do a platform mount. If he’s any good, he’ll know exactly what it is. If you’re in the NW, I’d be happy to help…

    cloudnine
    Free Member

    Ive done a lot of framing and use this
    https://www.amazon.co.uk/FILMOPLAST-P90-PLUS-hinging-mounting/dp/B00CDR635Y?ie=UTF8&*Version*=1&*entries*=0

    May find it cheaper elsewhere.

    Look up T Hinge mounting. Easy to do and reversible if an expensive print..

    cyclingweakly
    Free Member

    Ive done a lot of framing and use this

    The OP specifically doesn’t want to put adhesive tape on the print. Therefore, a platform mount is the best option. Trust me, I do this for a living! 🙂

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