Hi,
I thought I’d upgrade my rear shock to a kashima after rave reviews ect but I’ve been disappointed with it so far, when it’s set across to climb-mode (lever to left) its still soft, in fact I can’t tell any difference between “climb mode” and the 0 / softest propedadal setting…it’s setup correctly, if anything it’s on the firm side.. I’ve sent it back to Mojo to be firmed up and it’s still too soft in climb mode…has anyone else had this problem..I had a normal RP23 before and it was fine..

Thanks in advance!

Maybe a daft question but have you set the sag correctly and pressurised it with a shock pump?

I have one and I find it pretty soft but as my bike suffers from almost zero pedal bob it’s all good. I’ve climbed whilst looking down and watching it bounce but I honestly believe its doing it’s job fantastically. Most lockout forks still use their suspension if tested whist been locked and the same applies to the rear. IMO its the most enjoyment advancing component I’ve ever bought

Ps run it high, it takes load of pressure

Thanks guys, yeah I’ve set it up right, I could stiffen it up some more but it’s set-up according to FOX reccomendations. my main problem is there seems to be no difference in stiffness between the softest propedal setting and the hardest climb-mode setting. I can put weight on the bike on either setting and the shock goes through the same amount of travel??……

If that’s the case then it must be busted. No1 could argue adding pro-pedal shouldn’t toughen your ride up. Dunno man

What setting do you have the pro pedal on , 1,2 or 3 ?

The shock will go through the same amount of travel regardless if just putting weight on the bike.

You can only tell from riding the shock.

It’s not a lockout, it’s a platform. Small change in loading (pedalling), the shock will resist movement, large charge in loading (weighting and unweighting the bike) and the platform only has a very minor effect.

But you should be able to detect a difference between 0 and 3, doubt you’d notice any difference between 0 and 1.

Also, since you’ve had the kashima upgrade, are you sure you’re just not used to having such little stiction?

I can put weight on the bike on either setting and the shock goes through the same amount of travel??

That’s normal. I think you misunderstand how it works.

Hi Deanfbm, I can set the shock to fully open or Climb mode and the travel seems the same, I can have the shock set to climb mode (3) and drop off a curb and the shock will use the whole of its travel, exactly the same as if it is in fully Open mode…..surely this isn’t right?…I had a 2010 RP23 and putting the shock on 3 meant a very firm platform for climbing..:.
Glen, please educate me as I feel I’ve got a defective product

Cheers, Paul

drop off a curb and the shock will use the whole of its travel, exactly the same as if it is in fully Open mode

That sounds seriously soft….too much sag?

I’m no expert on this but it sounds to me like you’re doing the wrong test. Either way a drop off a kerb is a high speed compression and so I would want the shock to open fully for both. I do think that you’re perhaps a bit soft if you’re using full travel just dropping off the kerb.

What the Shock position should change is low speed compression – so the forces associated with pedalling. Try find a short hill and pedalling up it with the shock on 0; then go back and try on 3 and see if there is a difference. Perhaps exxagerate by really using a high gear so you have to mash the pedals. See if the shock moves more in one setting over the other.

From what you’ve described so far I don’t think the product is defective I’m afraid.

If you have too much sag it will just blow straight through the pro-pedal no matter what setting its at. Whack some more pressure in and give it another go.

What tune is the compression set to? a lower tune and kashima coating will feel much more active than a higher tune without kashima coating
There’s normally a little sticker on the bottom of the air can that has three little boxes on it, whichever box is filled in indicates what tune the shock has, there’s three tunes, low-medium-high, the tune is factory set and sets the level of propedal available from the adjusters, different leverage ratios of suspension or very light/heavy riders can need a different compression tune
Also, as above, I’ve heard you need to run higher pressure in kashima shocks due to the lack of stiction but if your already doing that I’d check the tune and if it is a low compression tune send it back for a higher compression tune.
OR..it’s broke…send it back anyway..

Numptie? I dont know.

Dumb Q: Is the new shock the same size & stroke and “tune” as the original?

If so – you may well have a duffer.

I’d wager a £1 bet that you’ve replaced an original custom tune rp23 for whatever frame you have with a generic kashime rpXX.

Feel free to contradict me. I’m often wrong. I’ve got a wife to remind me.

So honest Qs: what’s your frame? Did you get it new? Still has the original shock before change?

Whatever’s up – it’s not right. We need more info.

I’ve had the shock custom tuned for my Ibis Mojo, it’s set to Medium velocity, Medium Rebound and 225 boost valve tune.

Cheers for your input guys

As above, 1st thing, have you set your sag correctly? No-way should you be blowing through travel off a curb.

Also, as above, dropping off a curb is the wrong sort of input, pedal up a hill.

It sounds more like a case of not understanding how your shock works, rather than being knackered.

Pro Pedal is not a lockout. With the 2012 shocks you can set the level of Pro Pedal when you switch the lever. Read about it.

It is in effect, lots of low speed compression damping. It’s meant to be active still when climbing (so you don’t lose traction) yet smooth out (but not eliminate) pedal bob.

However, that being said, with a Mojo (DW Link) you shouldn’t really need to use the Pro Pedal at all, due to the way the linkage works.

i have the same shock , i have the lever to the right for climbing and on 0 not 3 !!! to the left makes it softer !

mine does makes woosh woosh sound when sitting on bike though !
😯

The clue for me is this statement –

Thanks guys, yeah I’ve set it up right, I could stiffen it up some more but it’s set-up according to FOX reccomendations.

The manufacturers ‘recommended’ settings are often totally different to what you find you actually need when you set up the shock yourself.

Key for the RP23 is getting the correct air pressure. It sounds like you are running the shock with too low pressure.

Check out this link and set up your sag correctly – front and rear and then try it again. http://www.bikeradar.com/gear/article/workshop-setting-up-mountain-bike-suspension-23318/

Woosh woosh noise normally indicates cavitation.
My 4 month old RP23 went back under warranty and I know a number of other peoples that have also gone back. I reckon there may have been a problematic batch at somepoint last year and they are still coming out of the woodwork.

But thats only for the woosh woosh of course.

I have a yeti ASR5 with a non kashima RP23 set to 2 with pressure at 160 (Im 73kgs) and I cant tell the difference between propedal on or off. I only bottom out the shock on hefty drop offs so I know the pressure is ok and its just come back from Mojo too.

So it doesnt suprise me in some circumstances the pro pedal doesnt make a difference.

Aparently the 2013 RP23 replacement is a radical change and will be a different league.

Long shot here but you mention a custom tune…..was it a Push tune? If so don’t they do away with all the propedal dooberies when they do the custom tune?

Ok thanks guys, I’ll put some more pressure in later and have a ride up some hills to test it… It’s interesting to hear various people viewpoint on the subject

Cheers, Paul