Viewing 17 posts - 1 through 17 (of 17 total)
  • Fox forks experts
  • MSP
    Full Member

    Hopefully someone like loco will spot this.

    1, is it worth putting 10w oil in rather than 7.5 if I am a heavier chap? and is it worth paying the extra for fork oil over normal engine oil?

    2, I am thinking about upgrading my forks with some 15qr lowers, does the web brace make much difference?

    cheers

    ScottChegg
    Free Member

    Engine oil? Goodness me.

    I’m not sure about the web brace comment; that doesn’t have much to do with the QR15 bit.

    Send them to Mojo. It’ll be easier in the long run. The Qr15 is better than QR in steering feel terms.

    MSP
    Full Member

    Engine oil? Goodness me.

    Just because oils are packaged as fork oils doesn’t mean they are any different to standard engine oil other than their packaging. I have seen comments in the past about people using engine oil, would like to hear from some who might know what they are talking about.

    I’m not sure about the web brace comment; that doesn’t have much to do with the QR15 bit.

    There are two types of qr15 lowers available, with and without the web brace, does two options confuse you?

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    Klunk
    Free Member

    are we talking open bath or the Sealed FIT damper ?

    MSP
    Full Member

    They are the 2008 float, pre FIT damper, so open bath I guess.

    retro83
    Free Member

    you need suspension damper oil then, otherwise yes you can use fully-synth motor oil.

    Rorschach
    Free Member

    You’re a right charmer are’nt you love 🙄

    ScottChegg
    Free Member

    Well, you’ve clearly made your mind up, so why ask?

    I wouldn’t put engine oil on my chain, never mind in my forks. I wouldn’t put fork oil in my engine, but hey, you know best.

    As for the web brace bit, you were not specific, and since you seem to have an unusual grasp of what Fox forks are about it caused confusion in my mind.

    I do know what I am talking about, but I don’t agree with you. That seems to have ignited some hostility in you. I’ll leave you to it.

    Extra Virgin Olive oil is the best for forks; Bob Fox told me in the pub.

    Klunk
    Free Member

    running 10 will just slow down the compression/rebound a touch probably 1 or 2 notches on the adjuster, useful if you only have rebound adjustment. IIRC Fox is rebranded Torco rsf, and the newer stuff is a fox only product. This is a pretty condescending article on subject.

    MSP
    Full Member

    cheers klunk.

    I do know what I am talking about, but I don’t agree with you. That seems to have ignited some hostility in you. I’ll leave you to it.

    Agree with what? I asked a question you have now posted two non answers, why bother replying if your not capable of answering.

    Superficial
    Free Member

    I wouldn’t put engine oil on my chain but wil happily run it in my forks – strictly for lubrication though, not if damping qualities are required. I.e. if you need the oil to be constant viscosity at various temperatures then fork oil is best, but for lubrication it’s not really the right oil for the job.

    In your (open bath) Fox Forx, no.

    As Klunk says, if you’ve only got rebound adjustment, or if for some reason you’re using all the clicks on for the dampers, then try upgrading the oil. But otherwise no.

    QR15 or 20mm is noticeably stiffer than QR. Easier to take the wheel on/off too. But it’s probably easier to just sell the forks and buy some with QR15 lowers.

    greeble
    Free Member

    engine oil? don’t do it.
    with regards the “webbing” the non webbed version are the f-series light weight xc fork.
    the webbed version are just beefed up for harder use

    MSP
    Full Member

    QR15 or 20mm is noticeably stiffer than QR. Easier to take the wheel on/off too. But it’s probably easier to just sell the forks and buy some with QR15 lowers.

    I read some comments that while the qr15 is stiffer, the non web brace is less stiff, so going from a web braced qr9 as I now have to a non web braced qr15 may not be worthwhile.
    I am going to see if I can pick something up on ebay or the classifieds so may cut down my options and become more effort than its worth.

    mildred
    Full Member

    The nice thing about Fox forks is that they’re easy to work on, so swapping stuff over is never a huge chore.

    I seem to recall having this conversation with a motorcycle race mechanic who explained that like gearbox oil, fork oil has “anti-froth/foam” additives, whereas engine oil does not. He said to never mix the two or use one in place of the other. I’ve no reason to disbelieve him and have always stuck to that. When both are readily available, why bother using the wrong stuff?

    chives
    Free Member

    Engine oils usually contain detergents to deal with combustion by-products, so I wouldn’t use them in forks. Gear oils may be suitable though.

    mikeyd
    Free Member

    Bought a set of Fox 36s with some wear to the stanchions,

    I serviced them after a couple of rides and used fully synthetic 5w30 oil instead of damper oil for the lubricating oil, not the damper oil (Ford Formula F)

    Forks are much smoother and 6 weeks of uk riding and an alps trip later the stanchion wear has not got any worse.

    Realworldcycling even recommend using engine oil; http://www.enduroforkseals.com/sitebuildercontent/sitebuilderfiles/36_talas_rc2_1.pdf

    (Page 15)

    Rorschach
    Free Member

    Thats only as lube for the bushes.Not for damping duties in an open bath fork.

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