Viewing 40 posts - 1 through 40 (of 53 total)
  • Fox 34 forks- can you identify these? (OEM on Orange Five) or are they 32's?
  • hora
    Free Member

    I suspect they are 32’s. The seller says they are 34 FIT CTD 150mm came off a Orange Five but looking at google etc etc they don’t look like a 34/150mm combo- more likely to be a 32/150mm?

    Any Orange Five owners (or other) who can confirm? I don’t want to make the 40min drive each way if I measure the lowers and they are 32’s.




    kendo954
    Free Member

    I thought all fox had the if number on the back of the lowers just below the seal? Don’t see it, if he has that number key it into fox website to full info

    P20
    Full Member

    I don’t think the 32 have that top lip design on the brace

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    razorrazoo
    Full Member

    Ask seller 5 model and year and get googling for spec?

    wallop
    Full Member

    None of the Fives come with a 150mm fork – all 32/140 I think apart from the AM which is 34/160.

    ndthornton
    Free Member

    Feel like I may be stating the obvious here but why don’t you just measure the stanchions?????

    convert
    Full Member

    Feel like I may be stating the obvious here but why don’t you just measure the stanchions?????

    Because they are a 40min drive away from him?

    muggomagic
    Full Member

    Beaten to it.

    hora
    Free Member

    Feel like I may be stating the obvious here but why don’t you just measure the stanchions?????

    See my OP- its a drive based on the sellers word. If I got there and he made a mistake measuring a 2mm diff I wouldn’t buy 32’s.

    Can you accurately measure the stanchion to 2mm difference?

    mikewsmith
    Free Member

    All the Fox forks in the house say 32 or 34 in the circle above the Fox logo on the front/outside of the lowers.
    This should help you if you can either zoom in for the code or ask them for the code/Serial.

    mikewsmith
    Free Member

    also if they are 26″ 34’s then I think they all can be spaced to 140/150/160 internally

    ScottChegg
    Free Member

    They look a lot like my 34’s. That feature line on the front of the brace is identical. Mine are the Evolution model found on the Orange Five AM. Nowhere does it say 34.

    Why not ask them to measure across the flats on the top nut where the CTD adaptor is? On 34’s it should be 28 (not 26 as on 32’s)

    z1ppy
    Full Member

    Call me silly but why would you be interested in a set of 2013 fox CTD forks, almost universally slagged for being rubbish?

    BTW I’d guess their 34’s going by the brace, surprisingly it doesn’t say 34 in the circle above the Fox logo, as we’d expect. If the seller has a set of calipers, measuring would be easy.. you never know he might have.

    hora
    Free Member

    Hes also selling a bike with 32’s on- so visually it should be an easy-spot? Even if the other fork is kashima?

    amedias
    Free Member

    If the seller has a set of calipers, measuring would be easy.. you never know he might have.

    Or he could be familiar enough with his own forks to describe the model correctly?

    Why do you doubt his description, was it vague enough in other ways that you’re not sure he knows what forks he owns?

    They look like 34’s to me FWIW.

    Goldigger
    Free Member

    If he doesn’t have calipers to measure the diameter..
    Assuming they are 34mm then the circumference would be 106.8mm. C = 2?r
    Cut a straight piece of paper 106.8mm long, rap it around the stanchion..if the ends touch it’s 34mm. If they overlap its 32mm.

    hora
    Free Member

    The description was vague/very basic. The ‘issue’ is visually I can’t see any forks that match these. I asked the question and received a question mark at the end of the line and the receipt can’t be located to confirm. Just ‘fairly sure’.

    I want 34’s. I’d buy 36’s without a doubt and stretch to 34’s but I don’t fancy a wasted evening driving if they are 32’s. I’m beyond doubt that the guy is kosher/I always go on a few factors/gut-feel but it can be a genuine mistake too which I’d want to avoid.

    amedias
    Free Member

    34 on the left, 32 (29er though) on the right, crown is deeper on the 34 and the dropout webbing also appears slightly beefier.

    The ones in your pic look like 34s to me, even before comparing to google pics, but if he can’t measure then the serial number should be able to confirm if he can find that for you.

    woody2000
    Full Member

    Is that a 1.5″ steerer or just a funny angle making it look fat??

    EDIT: tapered, d’oh!

    mikewsmith
    Free Member

    Also on the why if the price is right then an avalanche cart will transform them.

    al2000
    Full Member

    Non Kashima so presumably OEM? If so, I think the 34 was available in an OEM 150 travel version.

    fasthaggis
    Full Member

    I’m beyond doubt that the guy is kosher/I always go on a few factors/gut-feel

    and this has never let him down in the past :roll

    ScottChegg
    Free Member

    The swage line running horizontally on the crown at the base of the steerer is a giveaway.

    34’s. No question.

    Call me silly but why would you be interested in a set of 2013 fox CTD forks, almost universally slagged for being rubbish?

    That’s funny, mine are perfect; beyond criticism. But I just ride the thing; I don’t try and review them.

    z1ppy
    Full Member

    That’s nice for you SC, and I happily run some 2013 32’s (came on the bike) that work ‘fine’ but that does not mean they were the best forks available for the money & hasn’t stopped mojo trying desperately to claw back some “reputation” by the likes of a 3 page review/advert in a mag. Saying how the issues were now behind them for 2015 & how the earlier forks could be re-tuned.

    ScottChegg
    Free Member

    mojo trying desperately to claw back some “reputation” by the likes of a 3 page review/advert in a mag

    There you go then. Don’t read mags and you’ll be much happier.

    The received wisdom is that Pikes are the best fork in the world. I didn’t like them; they were clunky. The 32’s I had on my bike were great, but I needed 160mm ideally for my new frame. Never looked back.

    z1ppy
    Full Member

    On a site run to advertise a magazine that seems a tad dis-loyal 😉

    hora
    Free Member

    Whenever I see a bikeradar review I take it with a pinch of salt.

    Apparently the 2013 were slightly more linear and the differences weren’t as pronounced between the three settings. Well, for most people this isn’t an issue, run slightly more psi. If its too linear then don’t run the DH setting- run the slightly firmer trail or climb than the next click on. It aint rocket science but I think when some people read a negative ‘magazine’ review they think their product is faulty/junk.

    The fork hardly fails/pisses oil/spikes like crazy/snaps/cracks now does it?

    For the money I think its a good secondhand buy.

    z1ppy
    Full Member

    So a fork you can’t run one of the three major settings is not faulty? Indeed I’ve never run the DH setting on mine (but I wouldn’t have bought them if given a choice), but increasing the PSI so that is doesn’t use all of the available travel is a fix? Yeah ace, and TBH I was going by the numerous thread on here complaining about them last year and used the “mojo” response as proof even they admitted they might not have been great.
    I expect another thread from you soon 😆

    mikewsmith
    Free Member

    as an owner of 2013 34’s I’d say the following.
    Stiffness – fine it’s not a 36, it’s as stiff as it should be and needs to be from my year of riding it. It’s not got out of shape or squirmy like older forks I’ve tried.
    Plushness – very plush
    Compression damping – found it hard to get the balance just right between going through the travel and loosing small bump by adding more air. Some extra oil in the air chamber helped to make it more progressive and ramp up more at the end.

    I was offered an upgrade to the 2014 damper via some mods to the 2013 one, but the local Oz Fox importer/dist has been overwhelmed with warranty work on shocks and I wasn’t convinced of the turn around time on the fork.

    I went with the Avalanche damper which has added exactly what was missing. It’s been great even if it’s added 200g to the fork. The chassis of the fork is exceptional and with the change it’s exactly what I wanted. It’s also still cheaper than a Pike and comes if white rather than “murdered out” which I prefer.

    I’m looking for some 34 Kashima Floats for the missus bike to do the same on if I can get some at the right price. Despite the rep online not many people are actually shipping them on. Make of that what you want

    hora
    Free Member

    I expect another thread from you soon

    I only need them whilst my 55CR’s are fixed. To be honest I run my 55’s firmer and I don’t really need ‘small bump’ oh and they are cheap. Win win really.

    Down the line I can look at any mods. Better than buying 1yr old/forks that need a service/worn for more money IMO.

    Stiffness – fine it’s not a 36

    Just as long as they aren’t the old style 32’s. They were crazy flexy for my bifferness.

    mikewsmith
    Free Member

    No they are not like the 32’s, 32 is a great short travel fork but lazy/stupid accountant driven bike companies seem to enjoy speccing them at 150mm for AM bikes where they fall way short (Giant/trek).

    ScottChegg
    Free Member

    So a fork you can’t run one of the three major settings is not faulty? Indeed I’ve never run the DH setting on mine

    Which setting ‘can you not use’? If it’s D I run that most often.

    I’ve never been able to get to the bottom of the idea that the damping is somehow not fit for purpose, yet changing the spring rate fixes it.

    Is it damping, is it spring curve?

    As I say they work for me. Maybe it’s setup. Maybe the settings for my weight puts them right in the sweet spot. That doesn’t mean they are great for everyone, but it also doesn’t mean they are crap for everyone too.

    njee20
    Free Member

    I only need them whilst my 55CR’s are fixed.

    Seriously? Why not just wait a week or two…?

    hora
    Free Member

    I’ve been quoted three weeks.

    Three weeks of summer rider but hey I guess I can avoid the trails for three weeks in summer weather………

    I’m not even going to miss one weekend let alone possibly three!

    mikewsmith
    Free Member

    I’ve never been able to get to the bottom of the idea that the damping is somehow not fit for purpose, yet changing the spring rate fixes it.

    Is it damping, is it spring curve?
    The basic idea/principle is…
    The travel blows through too easily so there is not enough LSC or the mid stroke isn’t firm enough.
    Adding oil to the air chamber reduces the volume and therefore increases the bottom out resistance (sort of)

    hora
    Free Member

    So visually with the lip in the crown boss and the more angulated lines on the lower tops they are more than likely 34’s? I’ll do the drive… If I hold them next to his 32 Fox’s I’ll spot the difference straight away in stanchion width..

    He text me at lunchtime to say definitely 150mm length stanchions.

    mikewsmith
    Free Member

    sorry managed to miss the link earlier
    http://www.ridefox.com/help.php?m=bike&ref=topnav
    get either the serial number or product code off the fork an enter it above. Definitive thread ending sort of conclusion

    hora
    Free Member

    I missed that too/asked him- cheers.

    mikewsmith
    Free Member

    I meant I found it and managed not to post the actual link…
    It came out around the time of the recall notice so just check that when you have the numbers

    ratherbeintobago
    Full Member

    Adding oil to the air chamber reduces the volume and therefore increases the bottom out resistance (sort of)

    So it’s the spring rate, then?

Viewing 40 posts - 1 through 40 (of 53 total)

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