Formula Oro K10 Brakes – What’re they like? I can find little info online apart from them being part of the spec on Lappierres a few years ago.

Not heard of K10’s before. K18 and K24 – the only diff being the k24 has tool free lever adjustment.

I’ve run k18’s for 4 years. Just put some new kevlar pads in. Very happy with them.

I think the K10’s are just an OEM spec K18…

Callipers appear identical from the pics I can find.

Jeff

Cheers guys, I agree they look identical to K18’s.

K18s are a nice brake, very power full, for best results over their lifespan they do need maintenance. I would not describe as fit and forget a la shimano. Mine are 6 years old and 2 years ago had to be stripped down fully and new seals fitted and have had to replace the piston in the lever once. But they have lead a pretty intensive and gritty life and I don’t resent them for it. Coming up to the biannual full bleed (feeling like they need it) and may be looking at replacing some parts at the same time. They take DOT4 not mineral oil which is a bit of a PITA, not nice to deal with inside, ventilation advised.

I’ve got 4 sets of K24s, the oldest is probably 7 years old, the newest just a couple. All been ace tbh, the older ones had a big of a design flaw in the lever, the threaded barrel for the span adjuster could strip. (and tbh the lever wasn’t a very nice shape either). That was changed later on though with a nicer shaped lever that doesn’t have that flaw, but is an utter utter ******* to fit…

I really rate them, I’ve upgraded to The Ones now but despite years of progress they’re still competitive with all the modern midrange stuff- better than Formula’s RX that replaced them in fact.

Only downside really is that the longevity and reliability of the design does mean some you buy will be very old and well used. Pivots can wear, and the rubber parts will be a bit aged, there’s a good chance that they’ll be on original seals as they last really well.

Northwind
I’ve got 4 sets of K24s, the oldest is probably 7 years old, the newest just a couple. All been ace tbh, the older ones had a big of a design flaw in the lever, the threaded barrel for the span adjuster could strip. (and tbh the lever wasn’t a very nice shape either). That was changed later on though with a nicer shaped lever that doesn’t have that flaw, but is an utter utter ******* to fit…

I really rate them, I’ve upgraded to The Ones now but despite years of progress they’re still competitive with all the modern midrange stuff- better than Formula’s RX that replaced them in fact.

Only downside really is that the longevity and reliability of the design does mean some you buy will be very old and well used. Pivots can wear, and the rubber parts will be a bit aged, there’s a good chance that they’ll be on original seals as they last really well.

I would agree with all of that. I have been running k18s for about 4 yrs and had the issue with the lever adjust rod stripping (fixed with spare parts available from UK bike store) but other than that they have been good brakes and they are plenty light and powerful enough. I’m pretty heavy (105 – 110kg kitted up)and they do the job well. Despite others issues I’ve found them easy to bleed too, provided you do it right.

Yeah, they’re dead easy to bleed as long as you don’t lose the o-ring from the caliper. Not that I’d ever lose the o-ring. No. Still, they’re not expensive to replace from CRC when, er, if you do lose them. So I hear.

I bought a pack of o rings off ebay, think I got 6 for a few quid. I got told by the Aus importer / sercive guys to get them rebled every year as the fluid can absorb moisture and lose their effectiveness. Having said that, I’ve rebled these once in the 4 years I’ve owned them and they still work great. Fitted new pads the other day and musn’t grumble.

Yeah, they’re dead easy to bleed as long as you lose the o-ring from the caliper. Not that I’d ever lose the o-ring. No. Still, they’re not expensive to replace from CRC when, er, if you do lose them. So I hear.

I wouldn’t know what you’re talking about. 😀

Me neither.

I certainly never lost several orings and so measured and specced and bought 250 to make sure it never happened again and then recouped the money seeling them on ebay until those epicbleed buggers came along with their brand name and undercut me… #grumble grumble grumble# still got hundreds, might have to undercut them in return to get rid of them.

By the way, once I had 250 spare ones in a bag, NEVER HAPPENED AGAIN.

Anyone on this thread found a source for the pivot bits? Mine are absolutely shagged but I don’t need/necessarily want to by new levers just to get the pivot bits.

Nice and reliable