Headset has a huge lower bearing cup – but the top of the albert select knob still hits a downtube gusset. What is that spacer called I can put on my existing headset? or am I all confused?

Wally.

depending on the headset you might be able to buy a thicker lower race.

Lower race is 13mm thick as it is – huge.
Only need another 2/3mm.
Can I space up the crown race? (I realise it has to catch on the flare)

You could put a space between the bottom cup and head tube?

What headset?

Hmmm same problem here with a king lower reace and some fox F29s. Could fit the deeper king crown race but really only want to shim it 1 mm, so interested in this thread!

Edit…

space

should read spacer…off to bed

Not familiar with your particular forks but I had similar when I built up my turner with fox 36s. However, once I’d set the bike up, I found winding the rebound adjuster to where I wanted it gave just enough clearance. What does this particular knob do and do you need it there? Could you set it and then trim/remove/fettle it?

Yes, we are talking Captain Bodge It options wanted here – but I want to keep my dentists bills down.

frame £40 forks £95 so any CK+7 comments are not viable.
Headset is a Decathlon own branded Cane Creek.
Albert Select Knob does not wind down – just clicks and turns. Would be a shame to cut off half of it, but it is an option, they were cheap- but would ruin resale.

You could file the frame a little?

Is it an adjusted you need or something you’d set and forget? If so, could you set it and remove it? If you are worried about resale (at that price I wouldn’t be) then buy a spare adjuster and cut that down.

that’s a bloody tall knob – could you file it down ?

Could lop off top 1/3rd – seems a shame though.
No mileage in trying to pop something under the crown race?

What’s the problem exactly? Is is that you want to turn the bars past the point where the knob fouls the frame, or is it that the knob fouls the frame, and is chipping the paint? If it’s the latter, would helicopter tape work?

Andy

The problem is that when I crash I will either rip off the knob – ruin forks or put a large score throught the gusset and possibly frame. Prevention is better than cure thoughts.

if you’ve got a Chris King headset then speak to Alan @ Riverside Cycles as he imports the Ventana extra thick crown races for CK headsets (two thicknesses IIRC)

off with its knob

How is the knob (snigger) attached? Could you remove it an make up a smaller one. Filing the knob down seems a shame, filing the frame is a silly idea.

Filing the knob down seems a shame, filing the frame is a silly idea.

brant thinks its daft aswell…FILING NOOOOOOOO

http://www.singletrackworld.com/forum/topic/what-headset-4

I had the same issue with some Bombers with an ETA lever. I used an angle grinder and took some of the thickness off the lever and now it clears perfectly!

ok let me rephrase it. IMO Filing the frame is a nasty bodge of an idea that you may wish to resort to in desperation when all sensible options have been exhausted.

I had a similar problem with a 1994 Stumpjumper equipped with Mag 21s (cable guides rather than gussets) – it should be in the MTB lessons learnt book by now.

That said, you can obviously do what you like with your own frames.

There’s nothing wrong with filing a gusset down, if you know what you’re doing, but don’t file a tube.

I have cut a slot in a headset spacer, put in onto the steerer before adding the crown race once. Worked fine. But only a very thin spacer.

You could line up an army of MTB design bods to tell me otherwise, but Id still think filing a very a poor solution. It was one thing back when suspension was generally an aftermarket addition, but seriously in 2010? – I think this a problem that should have been designed out long ago.

Id acknowledged there is a mountain of frame/fork options which make this tricky! maybe scope for a useful standard to be introduced – rather than usual marketing driven ones.

Wally, Personally Id look to replace/change the knob, or select a different headset, or fit a spacer, or re-assess frame/fork combo.

Solved – Brant had the answer

Cut a very thin carbon spacer, 2mm was just enough to lift up the headset. Now spins, slight hit, knob depresses and moves underneath with a hint of white paint on the knob. Delighted that no power tools were broken out and that it is all reversible. Crown race needed seating too, even with spacer, so all A1 OK and secure.

But the real question is why I am messing about with this when I have one of Brants 10/10 ready to ride? Building bikes is just fun I guess, probably a bit like designing them.