Viewing 14 posts - 1 through 14 (of 14 total)
  • Fork Dive – How much is acceptable?
  • Surfr
    Free Member

    I'm struggling with steep sections on my Merlin Malt hardtail. It's mainly due to saddle height, but as it doesn't have a QR and I can't be arsed to unbold it all the time, I keep it in high XC position all the time. I have noticed though that I get at least 20mm dive on the forks under front braking. Is this normal, or should I be looking at altering my pressures in some way. The bike seems to fit in all other respects. View of hub is obscured by bars in normal seated position. Peddling seems solid and effective.

    I should probably shell out for a Gravity Fropper, or at the very least a QR seatpost collar, but I'm sure XC type riders wouldn't struggle like I do. I do have short arms, which might not help me shift my weight far enough back.

    scaredypants
    Full Member

    WARNING – I can't ride for sheeite:

    the higher up you are, the more you'll be tipped forward under braking so a lower saddle would prob make a difference

    being forward isn't always bad though – the latest journobollox seems to be "riding the fork through tight corners" and they do have a point for long forked, slack frames

    so, depends on your bike, your intentions and your environment
    (if you're on a xc race bike with a short fork and steep angles but riding rocky/steep routes, maybe you should stiffen the fork or drop the saddle or reconsider your bike choice. If you're on a bigger bike 20mm doesn't seem so bad but you should be able to get your weight back easily anyway, if it's the right size)

    Surfr
    Free Member

    It's only a 100mm travel reba. I don't know how you describe a Malt. It's not out and out XC Race but it's a short travel XC hardtail I guess.


    Since this pic, I've raised the seat and added 20PSI to +ve pressure which raised the fork about 10mm.

    thejesmonddingo
    Full Member

    How much sag were you running?
    Ian

    PJ266
    Free Member

    Id say 20mm was fine, when i anchor on (i have pikes) they must compress about halfway 😀 and buy a QR seatclamp!! things are so much more fun when you can move around on the bike properly.

    retro83
    Free Member

    Personally I'd just either add a weeny bit more +ve pressure or get used to it. 🙂 However, if you do want to change it:

    If your spring rate is roughly right, then you can add a bit more low speed compression damping with the blue dial. Looks like you have poploc, and therefore will need the poplock adjust lever to do so.

    When I had MotionControl forks on a hardtail, I had them set up with the blue dial fully clockwise (i.e. locked out), and had the floodgate almost wide open. This gave a very firm feel, with no bob and very little brake dive, but they opened up completely as soon as you hit any bumps.

    Surfr
    Free Member

    Thanks guys. My poplock is slightly broken as the cable outer has snapped under the lever unit so the cable sometimes rubs. However, it does always work when pushing the lever down (locking out / increasing compression). Would it be worth doing this before any steep technical sections perhaps?

    aphex_2k
    Free Member

    Surfer, if you have short arms, have you tried a shorter stem? Or just rotate the bars back a wee bit?

    Grimy
    Free Member

    Ive got the same Merlin Malt, with Reba Race forks, with the exception of a larger frame. I had the same trouble as you. It's fine for genral XC and great little climber, but steep downs are a little scary. I've found the geometry of the Malt to push you quite forward on the bike, especially compared to the likes of my mates On One 456. (although the weird thing is, they seem to measure up the same with a tape measure, barring the head angle of course) I considered swapping the frame out, and I still might in the future, but the best solution I have found so far was to raise the fork travel by 20mm by removing the all-travel spacer. Its only 20mm but it raises the bars that much and makes a HUGE differance on the downs, and has little impact on its climbing ability. Get a bottle of 15w shock oil and download the service manual and it will only take you 20minutes to do.

    I've also just bought a 80mm stem from somebody in the classifeds section to replace the original 100mm jobbie. I bolted it on yesterday and I'm going to try it out tomorrow on the cat and fiddle loop. (no very steep downs, but should get some idea?) it should help me get further back off the rear of the saddle more when needed. Ill let you know how it works out.

    If you live anywhere near Manchester, and you want a lift changing the fork travel, just let me know.

    Surfr
    Free Member

    Grimy, I'd LOVE to know how you get on with that. I've had the manual for a while and have contemplated removing the spacer before. Sounds like it would be worth experimenting with it. Position on the bike otherwise seems fine so its good to know I'm not alone 🙂

    Oh I'm in Mid Wales but thanks for the offer 😀

    grumm
    Free Member

    I find it helps to try and avoid using your front brake much on steep stuff anyway.

    GW
    Free Member

    ha ha!! SKIDDER!!!! watch out! the STW trail police will be after you! 😛

    grumm
    Free Member

    Well I've been reading the brian lopes book and I'm trying to use either brake as little as possible, but generally I feather the back a little, but try not to lock it out as then you are losing some control.

    Grimy
    Free Member

    Surfr – I'm pleased to report that the shorter stem worked out really good today! It just feels better. Ill try and describe it but it will probably just sound like obscure rambelings as its really hard to dscribe it accuratly.

    The 80mm stem has slightly "quickened" the steering, but not to the point were its overly snappy. It still climbes very well, and I felt being ever so slightly sat more upright ment I could breath easyer, helping me clear every climb today. Downhill was a little more comfortabe too, not leagues better, but a nice improvment all the same, and I cant say that at any point did I feel too far forward for a change, although to be honest the cat and fiddle loop dosent have any perticually steep decents.

    The front does now seem a little lighter and I'm not sure if thats a good or a bad thing yet? But on todays trails, which were perticually dry and very very loose, to the point it was like riding a rock scree or a bed of marbles and the bike squirmed around in every direction, I was glad of he faster steering and to be a little further back.

    End result was I liked it and its deffinatly staying. I still think raising the fork travel will help you the most, but if yo can pick up a shorter stem too, then you should be feeling much better. I wouldnt go any less than 80mm though! I think on this frame, 70mm would be getting a little too short perhaps.

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