So in taking the new bike out in anger today for the first time it was a stark reminder that I’m nearly 40! The 36t up front and 36/11 rear made climbing some of the boggy bits “interesting” with a variety of language chucked in. What’s the easiest/cheapest way of giving me say one easy spinning gear?

Stop poncing around and buy a triple.

Smaller chainring

Smaller front ring?

Not cheap really,hope t-rex40t……..sorry.

Smaller front ring means you will spin out at about 17mph.

Really, 34 front 11 rear will spin out at 17mph?

Smaller front ring means you will spin out at about 17mph.

Maybe if you go to a 22 🙂

It depends on your riding, but unless you’re somewhere flat or you’re fit, your front ring is probably too big. Try a 32. Personally I’m running a 30t, but my mtbs barely touch Tarmac and I’m not terribly bothered by top speed.

Maybe a bit more than 17mph,you might even get 18 mph iff the hills long enough and wind behind….

36 is pretty high for 1×10 with a 36- 32 is still a sensibly high gear for mtb use.

I think people obsess a bit on the whole “mtfu” side of 1×10 but there’s times when really you don’t want to be pushing a big gear, you want to spin a lower one- snow, mud, ice etc. Curious how I’ll get on with mine this winter, one bike already has a OneUp and the other might well get one too

I’m not poncing its a new bike. This is what it’s been delivered with. So be constructive and help a soon to be weathered old builder ! I appreciate a smaller chainring will ease all of the gears, I do have general gist of how gearing works. Would it be cheaper and is it possible to just make the top of the ten a bigger one?

TBH I’m happy running my 34t with 36t on rear,it does spin out easily though IMO

Would it be cheaper and is it possible to just make the top of the ten a bigger one?

No, it’ll be harder and more expensive – you’ll have to get a range expander like the aTRex. Smaller ring is more sensible choice. 30 or 32 will be fine, and good for far more than 17mph!

I have 32 on the front and 11 to 40 (Hope T-rex) at the back of my 26″ FS.

I’m fat, unfit and not fast but never have a problem getting up any hill with the lack of a very granny gear.

Also have a 34 front with the same rear on a 26″ HT and also never have a problem with that on the same hills – despite the HT actually being heavier.

36 and 11 to 36 will probably be ok if you are super fit or a XC racer, but for average joe I can imagine it being a struggle.

Yes the hope t-Rex,I did say,and I’m being constructive I’m here to help,I’m just saying that a front ring will make all your gearing easier,I’m going to get a t-Rex.

I used to spin out at 17mph on my single speed using 32:16, so you’re going to be able to move faster than that for sure.

hairyscary – Really, 34 front 11 rear will spin out at 17mph?

Bollocks! I spin out at that 32-20 singlespeed (29er)

Edit: beaten to it, left the half filled out window a while

anyway, you’re struggling with a 1:1 gear ratio? If you’re pedalling that you’d be faster to walk

Retrodirect – Member
hairyscary – Really, 34 front 11 rear will spin out at 17mph?
Bollocks! I spin out at that 32-20 singlespeed (29er)

Edit: beaten to it, left the half filled out window a while

Have a look at the end of my sentence where you will find a question mark. I was questioning the post above mine.

anyway, you’re struggling with a 1:1 gear ratio? If you’re pedalling that you’d be faster to walk

Not the case at all. I’m moving considerably faster than people walking (or riding 1:1 ratios) when riding in 32/36

Spun my 32:11 out at 29mph on a fire road. Rollers have helped me develop a reasonable spin though, think that was about 120rpm. Off road I’m never pedalling at that speed anyway.

I’d drop to 32, a few rides in and you’ll get stronger.

32 drops the ratio to 0.89 from 1.

On HT 30t front 11/36 + 42t one up extender does me fine, depends where you ride. Most of mine is techy climbs n downs so not much in the way cranking it full on speed.

Did have a 40t on FS but still struggled on some climbs, once it comes off it’ll be up for sale. 😉

stick with the 36 you get used to it, had one up front for nearly 6 years 34-11 when 9 speed cheating now with 36-11 10 speed, can climb most trails at a steady pace 😀

I thought the idea of mountain bikes was to make it easier to ride off road 😉

I ran 36 up front with a 34 rear when I was younger, it was tough on proper hills a day my legs ended up huge. Running 34 with a 40t at the back. If you can remove a cassette then the 40t is a simple solution. Dropping to a 34 would be reasonable too. I have a 36t narrow wide still sat in its packaging.

11-42 (One-up) rear here..30t front on a 29er.

I got the one-up 42 & 16t sprockets new from EBay for £30. Fitting was easy. What rear mech do you have?

X9 clutch mech and x0 chain device if that makes any odds. Will the chain legnth need to be altered?

God, I run a 11-42 rear and a 32 front on a 26″er and find I run out of puff on the hills round here. You lads must have legs of steel, no hills, or you push a lot. 🙂

A few things to point out. First off, it’s your first time using it. It gets easier. I sold loads of 1×10 bikes to guys in their 40s and they all hated it first time out, wanted to put a triple on, get expander rings etc. I told them to stick with it and drop a ring size – now all converts.

You are using a bit more strength than you’re used to, so in the same way as going to the gym after a few years absence is painful and difficult, it quickly gets easier.

Try a 32t or 34t chainring. It’ll most likely sort things out for you, don’t worry about spinning out as you’ll be nudging 30mph when you do. If you do a really large amount of riding up very steep, lose muddy or grassy banks then you just might need an expander ring.

you just might need an expander ring.

There is a big difference between need want and nicer to have.

Fit a granny ring?

God, I run a 11-42 rear and a 32 front on a 26″er and find I run out of puff on the hills round here. You lads must have legs of steel, no hills, or you push a lot.

2nd and/or 3rd I reckon.

I’m Scottish Borders and reckon that if I go 11-speed I’ll need a 28 on the front – otherwise I’ll be pushing. A couple of fit lads I know run 30’s and can manage, while others claim 32’s are fine – but I’ve not ridden with them to know how much pushing they do and/or how fit they are.

i don’t like the idea of an expander ring, it all seems a bit heath what with having to wind the mech out to the max to actually work properly. Not really fully up to speed (if you hadn’t guessed) on current technical terms etc.
As the bike came fitted with a truativ descendant 1×10 set up, will that be a narrow wide ring on it as it also has a chain device fitted. If so can i just put any 32t chainring on with the correct bolt centering?

i don’t like the idea of an expander ring, it all seems a bit heath what with having to wind the mech out to the max to actually work properly

Fitted the hope 40t with a sram x9 out back, minor tweak to the b tension screw and that was it. Nothing to dramatic nothing wound to the max and seamless shifting.

X9 and 40t Trex on the hardtail works well and was easier to set up than the XT mech and Trex on the susser. RAD cage now gives the XT mech the advantage though. I run a 30t ring on the hard tail and a 28t on the susser, both 29ers. I rarely use the 11 and 40t gears so I reckon I’ve got my gearing about spot on for the riding around here (NE Scotland).

Unless you are a racing snake doing short course XC, or live somewhere flat, 36 tooth chainring on a 26″ bike is too big.

Go 32 on a 26″.

I run a 28 tooth on a 29er, 10 speed. Spinning out doesn’t happen – I don’t need to race downhill, and 28-11 takes me to at least 20mph on the flat, and I don’t carry that speed for very long.

Firstly I’m heartened to see that 1×10 and 1×11 folks do use 28 and 30 front rings. That’s the only way it would work for me

Secondly some people tend to mash and some people spin. So its not just about fitness. Also it depends on when you consider it Ok to walk. I ‘ve met the Evans ride it at Woburn a few times to find almost every up walking up a gentle slop and I really no great shakes on the ups. Even better I once met an MTB club on when of my how high can I get climbs. It startes of easy, then gets really steep and finally just crazy. I got about 1 crank turn in to crazy. The whole club had walked the lot

Thirdly these threads do rival I’ve just fitted ridged forks and how do I now reduced the pounding from the bars for irony

Thirdly these threads do rival I’ve just fitted ridged forks and how do I now reduced the pounding from the bars for irony

As I said back there << this is how it was delivered. I’ve just looked and noticed the newest version comes with a 32 front. I can’t go any smaller without removing the chain guide apparently as its set for 36 to 32. Might run down to the lbs and see what they’ve got in.

When are all you gripers “Spinning out”?

If it’s descending a tarmac road, why do you care? Surely you have a road bike to do that on?