Yeah, OK. For every horror story there is usually countering good news.

I’ve also had several PSA engines to 120k-130k (the old 1.9L and 2.1L pre common rail) and I even had that 2.5l BMW diesel lump in an Omega to 140k in less than two years. Not a beat missed. These were all used as above; company cars, lots of motorway, serviced on the button.

However, my complaint may be related to an individual lemon but when we are asked for our experiences of specific cars, that experience may be limited to just one motah. If it was bad, the feedback will reflect that.

Dunno about the carp comment though. Carp because it doesn’t correspond with your view perchance?

wow that sure sparked some discussion and horror stories.
Mine is a 2005 1.6tdci estate – bought as x company with 80k and full stamps. Now at 85k.

after this work is done I’m going to always check the oils clean and change it every 3-4K regardless.

To me its a problem with the engineering tolerences in the engine allowing carbonation into the oil and subsequently blocking up the oil pickup pipe to the turbo. Haven’t seen many Jap cars going down with this!

I was looking at selling my Vito and keeping the focus as the family car but reconsidering it now for sure.

BOth good and not so good stuff here.

Obviously people all treat their cars differently, but the common denominators should be:

Regular oil changes, no turning off an engine you’ve just been thrashing.

My 53 plate 2.0 TDCi has just passed the 200K. Oil is changed every 5K, car flew through the MOT last month. No engine issues.

Turning off when the turbo is very hot is a bad idea.
While running, the oil lubricating the impellor shaft is being circulated.
Once the engine stops, the oil at the impellor shaft bearings ceases to be circulated.
So, if the turbo is hot, the oil is cooked, to the point that it burns and leaves fragments of the spent oil in the bearing.
Then when you start the engine, those deposits rip round the bearing before they are flushed away by the circulation of oil that occurs when the engine is running.

So, never turn off a really hot turbo, cos when you do, the temps sky-rocket and the oil left in the bearings cooks.

This is made worse by eaking out your oil changes for as long as you can.

Please remember, your oil gets everywhere with in the engine, and collects a lot of stuff on its journey like unburnt fuel which will effect its viscocity.

You may think you’re saving money by not changing the oil on a turbo car, but thats a false economy.

Change the oil, allow the turbo to cool before engine switch off.
Best just not to use the upper end of the rev-range once you are within 10 miles of your destination.
Leaving the car to idle to reduce turbo/oil temps isn’t a very good idea as the engine generally gets hotter, not cooler, when motionless.
😉

boblo, the comment was based on the prevailing sentiment that turbos are fundamentally unreliable and need to have their oil changed every ten minutes, special cooling cycles etc. Obviously thrashing an engine and then switching the engine off immediately is a bad idea, but that’s just common sense, and not what the average driver would ever be doing anyway.

The Ford unit may well be unreliable and have design flaws, but when the comments start spreading out to include problems with a “any car with a turbo”, the exhaust pipe on a Subaru, DPFs, a Mazda, then I start to lose a little patience.

A turbo is not some magical item, it’s just an exhaust driven pump. Yes, it spins very fast, but it’s meant to. With proper lubrication these will last a very long time (VW reckon the design life for their turbos is in lne with their engine blocks – 400,000 kilometres) and be a part of the engine you ignore.

30 years ago I’d have agreed that turbos were a problem, but nowadays they’re solid bits of kit, which will become more common as engines are downsized in the interests of efficiency. The myths that they are all delicate little things that need special handling are just that.

Anyone had any problems with a Ford 2.5l TDCi Duratorq engine flicking the vees at them?

I am convinced its not what you buy, but how you look after it.

309GTI – ran to 110k
Xantia TD – put 160k on in just 4 years
Primera 2.0i auto – put 30k in 8 months
Vectra 2.0i auto – 60k in 2 years
405Mi16 – ran to 140k
Omega MV6 auto – ran to 110k
Vectra 2.2i auto – put 70k on in 2 years

Not a single engine/clutch/gearbox related problem with any of them, except a DSI unit on the Omega.

Currently we have:
Freelander TD auto – 70k in 4 years
BMW 535i auto – currently at 110k

And the Freelander has been trouble free until last week when 2 injectors went belly up, and the Beemer cost me a DIS pack last year.

All serviced at 10k or less, except company cars which were on ‘schedule’.

I also ran a ZX9R to +50k with no problems.

There is a: TECHNICAL SERVICE BULLETIN
on here:
http://www.kelsey-forums.co.uk/cgi-bin/cmm/YaBB.pl?num=1246356652

“Subject/Concern: Loss of power; Failure of the turbocharger
Model:
Focus 2004.75 (07/2004–)
Assembly Plant: Valencia
Assembly Plant: Saarlouis
Engine: 1.6L Duratorq-TDCi (DV) Diesel
C-MAX 2003.75 (06/2003–)
Assembly Plant: Valencia
Assembly Plant: Saarlouis
Engine: 1.6L Duratorq-TDCi (DV) Diesel
Markets: All
Section: 303-04
Summary

Should a customer experiences a loss of power and by following the relevant workshop manual procedure on FordEtis you find a failed turbocharger as the root cause with clear damage to the turbocharger (turbine/compressor wheels damaged or turbo shaft broken), the following procedure needs to be carried out to prevent reoccurrence of the failure.”

anything with a turbo needs regular oil changes

Fixed that.

Oh and Ford, VW etc don’t actually make their own turbos IIRC. They are all made by third parties.

I also suspect that with a turbocharged engine it might be worth shelling out for fancy oil rather than Asda’s own. There is definitely a difference; Castrol Edge comes out of the Prius looking almost the same as when it went in, even after 15k miles.

I find it interesting that many people who’ve given me lifts etc seem to treat their cars really roughly. This might well have something to do with it.

never mind the turbot it’s the dualmass flywheels that are troublesome

Turbot? This all sounds a bit fishy to me…. 🙂

Oh my cod, these piscine references are giving me a bad haddock.

Hi, This engine is present in a few more cars that what you might think:

DLD-416

The DLD-416 (or DV6) is a 1.6 L (1560 cc/95 cu in) version used by Ford, Volvo, PSA, BMW and Mazda.
Applications include:
2008–present Peugeot 3081.6 HDi
2007–present Suzuki SX4 1.6 DDiS, 90 PS (89 hp/66 kW) and 159 ft·lbf (215 N·m)
2007–present MINI Cooper D 1.6 110 PS (108 hp/80 kW) and 177 ft·lbf (240 N·m)
2007–present Citroën C4 Picasso 1.6 HDi, 110 PS (108 hp/80 kW) and 177 ft·lbf (240 N·m)
2006–present Citroën Berlingo 1.6 HDi, 75–90 PS (74–89 hp/55–66 kW) and 127–159 ft·lbf (172–215 N·m)
2005–present Citroën C3 1.6 HDi, 90 PS (89 hp/66 kW) and 159 ft·lbf (215 N·m)
2004–present Citroën C4 1.6 HDi, 90–109 PS (89–108 hp/66–80 kW) and 159–177 ft·lbf (215–240 N·m)
2004–present Citroën C5 1.6 HDi, 109 PS (108 hp/80 kW) and 177 ft·lbf (240 N·m)
2004–present Citroën Xsara Picasso 1.6 HDi, 109 PS (108 hp/80 kW) and 177 ft·lbf (240 N·m)
2005–present Ford Fiesta 1.6 TDCi, 90 PS (89 hp/66 kW) and 159 ft·lbf (215 N·m)
2005–present Ford Fusion (European) 1.6 TDCi, 90 PS (89 hp/66 kW) and 159 ft·lbf (215 N·m)
2004–present Ford Focus 1.6 TDCi 90, 90 PS (89 hp/66 kW) and 159 ft·lbf (215 N·m)
2004–present Ford Focus 1.6 TDCi 110, 109 PS (108 hp/80 kW) and 177 ft·lbf (240 N·m)
2004–present Ford Focus C-MAX 1.6 TDCi 90, 90 PS (89 hp/66 kW) and 159 ft·lbf (215 N·m)
2003–present Ford Focus C-MAX 1.6 TDCi 110, 109 PS (108 hp/80 kW) and 177 ft·lbf (240 N·m)
2003–present Peugeot 206 1.6 HDi, 109 PS (108 hp/80 kW) and 177 ft·lbf (240 N·m)
2006–present Peugeot 207 1.6 HDi, 90–109 PS (89–108 hp/66–80 kW) and 159–177 ft·lbf (215–240 N·m)
2005–present Peugeot 307 1.6 HDi, 90–109 PS (89–108 hp/66–80 kW) and 159–177 ft·lbf (215–240 N·m)
2003–present Peugeot 407 1.6 HDi, 109 PS (108 hp/80 kW) and 177 ft·lbf (240 N·m)
2008–present Mazda2 MZ-CD 1.6 , 90 PS (66 kW) and 212 N·m
2003–present Mazda3 MZ-CD 1.6, 109 PS (108 hp/80 kW) and 177 ft·lbf (240 N·m)
2004–present Volvo S40 1.6D, 109 PS (108 hp/80 kW) and 177 ft·lbf (240 N·m)
2004–present Volvo V50 1.6D, 109 PS (108 hp/80 kW) and 177 ft·lbf (240 N·m)

Castrol Edge comes out of the Prius looking almost the same as when it went in, even after 15k miles

It might look the same but it won’t be the same!!! It’ll be ruined.

The layout of this engine is unusual; the turbo is at the top just in front of the engine. (Quite handy if you had to change the turbo, I suppose.)
But I have just done an oil change on one and was surprised by the amount of sludge / thick gunge that was in the crankcase breather hose.
To (find) get to the oil filter it is easier to remove the hose from the air filter to the turbo (about a foot long hose). Branching off from this hose is a smaller hose to the breather, this had oil and sludge in it.
This oil and sludge obviously should not be there, and is alarming close to the impeller for the turbo.
So not only is a regular oil change best to keep things running sweetly but a check of the buildup of sludge in the crankcase breather hose is wise. Yes there was some oil on the air filter as well.