Never actually done this before. I don’t have any plastic tubing to hand. I found a thread where someone said stick the race in the freezer for a couple of hours, but then lots of other threads suggesting putting forks in the freezer and heating the races instead. 😕

Don’t think my forks will fit in the freezer anyway – do I just need to go to B&Q for some piping?

I usually cut them… Assuming it’s going on a proper cartridge bearing, anyway.

Aye it’s an FSA Orbit XL II. I think the crown race on my MTB forks (same headset) is cut anyway and it’s never been an issue. Ta.

You can pop the race in a mug of boiling water for 10 mins. (will expand a tiny bit), then dry off + lightly grease.

I use an old knackered cup and bearing from the tool box to sit over the race, then just tap down into place.

Heat the race. Freeze the cups.

tubing from a vaccuum is perfect size, sure you have one of those 😉

Make yer own tool. Go to a DIY store and get some 32mm plumbing/plastic waste pipe cut a bit off and hit it hard. I think it’s better than the proper metal tool as its softer and kinder to the race. 🙂

Not sure I can cut it very well with the hacksaw I’ve got, seems like I would need a finer blade. Thanks for the tips.

druidh – headset cups are in already, I have the Cyclus tool from when they were on offer at Wiggle.

The missus is away at the moment but I will try and find this vacuum thing you mention. 🙂

If not ill have to get off my lazy arse and get to B&Q

Ended up just cutting it. Does it matter that there’s a bit of a gap? The very last bit broke rather than me sawing through it so it’s a bit of a thinner gap than the rest where it’s been sawed (didn’t have a very thin hacksaw blade) – leaving a bit of a gap above when you push the ends together.

If that makes sense……

Maybe I need to take a picture

Nah, doesn’t matter- there’s a gap in pre-cut ones.

Cheers. Yeah it looks like less of a gap than this Hope one.

But with an extra little bit of metal in the gap at the bottom – I wondered whether I should file this off as it looks like it would stop the two ends from pushing together when it’s installed (but I don’t know if that matters).

The metal tubes on my hentry-esque garage hoover made a great slide hammer for this task 🙂

This thread amuses me. Just like the last thread on the same subject.

Tried my Hoover but it has some internal narrowing that means it won’t go right over the steerer.

This thread amuses me. Just like the last thread on the same subject.

Thanks, that’s really helpful.

Okay, I’ll clarify. A head race is a precision part, which needs to be perpendicular and often of a very specific diameter to make the bearings and seals work properly.

Now while there are split crown races with some headsets, just taking a hacksaw to a non-split race to save a trip to the bike shop is not a brilliant idea.

That’s why it amuses me…

Naaa, it’ll be fine. Tis a bike, not a Swiss watch.

And what, exactly, do you think the difference is?

Don’t forget that the accepted method of fit of this precision part involves smacking it into place with a tube and a big hammer…

Now while there are split crown races with some headsets, just taking a hacksaw to a non-split race to save a trip to the bike shop is not a brilliant idea.

Ah I see – LBS protectionism. 😉

At the end of the day it’s a <£20 headset. Surely the worst that could happen is the bottom bearing wears out a bit quickly?

people have been bodging stuff forever, I once fixed a hole in my exhaust pipe with a baked been tin and a couple of jubilee clips. stuff works even if it’s not the ‘experts’ way.

Have you got a paint roller in the shed? I use the cylinder from that

Don’t forget that the accepted method of fit of this precision part involves smacking it into place with a tube and a big hammer…

You missed the first bit, which is to use a crown race facing tool to make sure the top of the fork is perfectly perpendicular and the correct diameter. Then, yes, precision fit it with a big hammer 🙂

I just get amused by the usual anti-LBS bias on here, that’s all…

Be reet!

The headset on my first cross bike; the crown race was too loose, and rattled. Jolly good local mechanic, Milk Race, Peace Race etc.. said ‘Couple of turns of PTFE tape lad’. Worked fine for the 2 years.

Ah I see – LBS protectionism.

Yup 🙂

It just seems a false economy to me to do a job badly, that’s all. Probably why I’ve got a workshop full of thousands of pounds worth of tools, and other people use their hoover attachment…

Have you got a paint roller in the shed? I use the cylinder from that

Might have one somewhere, ta.

I just get amused by the usual anti-LBS bias on here, that’s all…

I think describing people wanting to do their own maintenance/installation as ‘anti-LBS bias’ is a bit daft. The frame cost me £130 – spending what, say a tenth of that cost on a potentially simple job I’d like to be able to do myself doesn’t seem worth it really.

If it was an expensive frame/forks I probably would.

And again…

Surely the worst that could happen is the bottom bearing wears out a bit quickly?

I think describing people wanting to do their own maintenance/installation as ‘anti-LBS bias’ is a bit daft.

No, okay, that was a bit strong. But do you accept that the proper way is better? Even though the worst case is your headset fails a bit early?

bit of softwood and a hammer. tap it on bit by bit, make sure you alternate sides to ensure it goes on evenly.

been doing it this way for years and years, with no bother.

Dave

No, okay, that was a bit strong. But do you accept that the proper way is better? Even though the worst case is your headset fails a bit early?

Yup, and like I said if it was going on a ‘posh’ bike I might get it done properly. But it’s a £19 headset going on a steel gas pipe rufty tufty commuter.

Just because some one has been on a cytech course doesn’t make them a good bike mechanic.

People rebuild cars who aren’t trained mechanics, people build walls who aren’t trained brickies. should everyone always go to a proffesional for every job that needs doing?

Fitting a crown race is not a precision job. shove it on, if it looks straight it’ll be reet.

Just because some one has been on a cytech course doesn’t make them a good bike mechanic.

I couldn’t agree more – I’ve never been on a Cytech course 🙂

So a hand held facing tool is more accurate than the CNC lathe that created the fork parts. I doubt it.

Jobs done now, enjoy the ride..

So a hand held facing tool is more accurate than the CNC lathe that created the fork parts. I doubt it.

You’d be wrong, for two reasons. Firstly, the crown race isn’t usually cut on a CNC lathe, it’s usually a casting with the steerer tube pressed in – the steerer tube is drawn and butted, but often hasn’t been near a lathe. Then there’s paint in the way.

Secondly, the cutting tool is a very precise custom fit, and is in a guide that keeps it absolutely centred.

Another user on here will attest to the fact that even expensive bike parts sometimes need a final finishing with the correct hand tools to get them to fit properly…

I think you will find the casting is machined before tube is fitted, obviously you see a lot more steerer tubes than I do but the ones I have had have all been machined in the race area at least, & though I have not seen the bit inside the upper crown (& I hope i never do!) but pretty sure thats been machined as well.

The casting is sometimes machined, sometimes not, but not machined with the steerer fitted – and then it’s painted. Steerers sometimes have the butted area turned down, but that’s no guarantee it’s been turned to the exact dimension needed.

Do you really think the companies make, and bike shops invest in, all these tools for nothing? 🙂

Fair enough, you see a lot more than I do… I just tap mine on 🙂

I’m possibly also biased because a reasonable number of the repair jobs I get are jobs which other shops have bodged and done badly 🙂

Do you really think the companies make, and bike shops invest in, all these tools for nothing?

NO they and you do it to make money. The same reason that some components (not necessarily bike stuff) are made to use specific tools that could be made to use normal tools. Just to get more money out of us………call me a cynic and all that…………..

On a serious note have you ever removed a steerer tube from the upper crown? If you have some old sacarificial forks about I would love to know how tight in there those tubes are… (Its for a cheapskate plan I have)

I’m possibly also biased because a reasonable number of the repair jobs I get are jobs which other shops have bodged and done badly

Even less reason for me to go to the LBS then. 🙂

Metal tube from a garden umbrella does the job a treat 😉