Viewing 16 posts - 1 through 16 (of 16 total)
  • First proper rock climb!
  • RustySpanner
    Full Member

    Made it up Slab Climb on Idwal east buttress, gallantly aided by my partner, her youngest daughter and son in law. They have been threatening to make me do a proper climb for years and on Monday my excuses finally ran out.

    During the walk in from Lyn Ogwen I was bloody terrified, but once at the foot of the climb and kitted up I had no alternative but to give it a pop.
    Couple of dodgy moments but thanks to the encouragement and mockery offered from both above and below I made it – once on the rock the fear buggered off, replaced by determination not to let this stupid thing get the better of me.

    If you’ve not tried climbing, please, please give it a go. The adrenaline rush on reaching the top of the final pitch is one of the most intense I’ve ever experienced – can’t believe I left it ’till now to have a pop!

    The views are pretty spectacular too – looking down the Ogwen valley towards the Menai Straits and Anglesey from the foot of the climb, once I’d calmed down a bit:

    Spamf
    Free Member

    Good on yer.
    I’ve hooked a few into climbing in the past by taking them up Idwal Slabs.
    Many happy memories personally.

    RustySpanner
    Full Member

    Cheers Spamf.

    Partner is a very experienced climber, as are the rest of her family, so it was bound to happen sooner or later.
    Have been going to Wales and staying in their club hut for 2 or 3 years now – having just joined the club myself I thought it might be taking the p**s slightly if I was the only non-climbing member of a mountaineering club.

    I’m off to Decathlon tomorrow for a cheap pair of climbing boots – new pastime = excuse to go gear shopping!

    TinMan
    Free Member

    Rusty Spanner – Decathlon is a good shop, but please buy branded ones when you’re there. The rubber is better (stickier) than on the own brand shoes.

    RustySpanner
    Full Member

    TinMan – thanks for the advice.

    The Decathlon beginners shoes –
    http://www.decathlon.co.uk/EN/vuarde-vulca-33856844/
    are £20.00, whereas the next cheapest ‘branded’ ones, “La Sportiva Mythos” are £70.00.

    Will a fat 40 year old really notice £50.00 worth of difference?

    I’m sure either will be better than the Inov8’s I used on Monday!

    doug_basqueMTB.com
    Full Member

    Get something comfy if you’re starting out, that’s the most important thing!

    It’s an amazing feeling isn’t it. Were you seconding? If so then wait until your first lead…

    matt_outandabout
    Full Member

    Personally for lower level climbs (upto about S) I find that good edged approach shoes were better. Above that a pair of rock boots starts to help with edging, and possibly some smearing on some rock types.

    IMO, a beginner needs the most comfortable shoes they can, and differences in rubber etc are minimal and undetectable.

    bruneep
    Full Member

    Ahh memories of climbing particularly liked the old disco knee.

    RustySpanner
    Full Member

    Thanks for the advice folks.

    Have been recommended the cheaper Decathlons by a couple of people for their comfort and suitability for new climbers, so I think I’ll give them a go.

    Yes, I was seconding! Actually too nervous to remember which rope did what and what all the gear was for. There were a couple of people climbing behind me so all I had to do was climb and unclip myself from the protection.

    ‘Jelly Leg’ very apparent on a couple of occasions, but having the p**s ripped out of you really helps to focus the mind.
    Having ‘Restless Legs’ near to Lyn Ogwen was quite an experience for a Half Man Half Biscuit fan.
    http://www.chrisrand.com/hmhb/achtung-bono-2005/restless-legs/ 😀

    elliptic
    Free Member

    They’ll certainly be better than your fell shoes! (That said, I once managed to second an E1 in Walshes with the studs worn flat… 🙄 )

    Climbing and mtb-ing are a good fit, plenty of weekend destinations where you can do either or both depending on weather and inclination. Get stuck in!

    (Nice cultural reference to HMHB… did you know Boff Whalley from Chumbawumba has done the Bob Graham round 😯 )

    jimmy
    Full Member

    OOooh nice. I have yet to do a trad multi-pitch but currently have the fear of it. Hoping to do Ag-Aggs or January Jigsaw in Glencoe this summer, one of which has a hanging belay. My hands are tingling right now at the thought of it….

    RustySpanner
    Full Member

    Elliptic, have a look at this video:

    Class, pure class.

    Jimmy, I usually hate exposure when walking and scrambling, but having something to concentrate on seems to help enormously.

    Partner hasn’t climbed for a bit due to a couple of ACL ops, but is now full of plans to drag me up a few more diffs.
    What have I let myself in for?
    It’s my birthday in a couple of weeks – think I might be getting a climbing harness!

    elliptic
    Free Member

    Excellent stuff 🙂

    cragrat73
    Free Member

    bruneep yes disco knee, lol. Although halfway up a 44 metre climb solo ( no rope or gear ) even more funny. Well done on the first, first of many more i am sure. 🙂

    BillMC
    Full Member

    Consider checking out the ‘rockrun’ website as they often do serious reductions on ‘proper’ rock climbing footwear.

    grahamofredmarley
    Free Member

    Worst thing with Idwall is the decent esp. if you are still got your PA’s on.

    Milestone Buttress next then & then onto Carreg Wastad.
    enjoy

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