- This topic has 44 replies, 22 voices, and was last updated 8 years ago by pimpmyride.
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Fat Bike tyre – can't get it 'round'!
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phil56Full Member
I’ve fitted on-one floaters back and front, but they’re not sitting ’round’. The rims are definitely OK, but both tyres are running out of true in the round. The front is out by about 10mm, the back isn’t quite as bad.
They are set up tubeless, but I’ve tried fitting tubes and it made no difference. Visually they look to be sitting in the rim fine.
As I’m new to the ‘world of Fat’ – is there anything I’m missing?
cynic-alFree MemberVisually they look to be sitting in the rim fine.
This is what matters – if it is perfect then the tyres must be out.
crashtestmonkeyFree Memberover-inflate and leave overnight. All tyres can do this when new due to the effect of being folded/packed, but for road and ‘skinny’ MTB you’re inflating to much higher pressures which will force this out.
I fitted Floaters to my Wazoo last week and had a similar thing. Inflated them to about 25psi, left it overnight, deflated ’em back down to 6psi in the morning for a ride and they were spot on.
phil56Full MemberCrashtestmonkey – thanks for that, I’ll try this over night and see if things improve!
phil56Full MemberPimpmyride – the rims that come on a Genesis caribou as standard – but there doesn’t appear to be any run out on the rim itself (using the tie wrap round the fork test!)
phil56Full MemberCrashtestmonkey – I withdraw my thanks! Just off to the shower to get Stans fluid out of my hair! (not to mention from up my nose!)
mattyfezFull MemberHaha.. I guess he meant high pressure but not high enough tt blow the tyre off the rim! Haha!
I’ve done the same before.. Scared the bloody life out of me!
JohnClimberFree MemberPTFE spray lube in-between the tyre and rim
Blow to high pressure, leave over night
deflate and ridephil56Full MemberI’m not sure about risking the ‘blow to high pressure’ bit again!
I’ve spent the last 20 mins cutting out sticky nose hairs!
callmetcFree MemberNever done a fat bike.
But I use tyre juice tubeless sealant and always brush a generous amount on the bead of the tyre to help it slip into place.
epicycloFull Memberphil56 – Member
…As I’m new to the ‘world of Fat’ – is there anything I’m missing?Yes. Floaters are notorious for a sloppy fit.
Try leaving them aired up at max pressure overnight.
Oh, and don’t stress about a little out of round or wobble in a fat tyre – proportionally it’s probably less than a skinny tyre.
mattyfezFull MemberHigh pressure is a relative term really.. What PSI did you pump them to? And what’s the max PSI on the tyre wall?
thisisnotaspoonFree MemberI don’t think floaters are sloppy, if anything mine have all been a little tight. I think the reputation comes from the rims which the tyres struggle to get to the bead on due to the step in the inside of the rim. Not much you can do about that other than lots of electrical tape inside to builf up a ramp to it.
igmFull MemberMy floaters are pretty tight on a Nextie rim. They were very slack on the On One rim.
I can tubeless the floaters on Nexties with a track pump – which isn’t bad for a 4″ tyre.
phil56Full MemberHigh pressure is a relative term really.. What PSI did you pump them to?
I pumped them until they felt firm, checked with a digital gauge and they were 19 psi, so I thought there was plenty to go and gave it a good few more pumps – then bang!
I’d be surprised if I’d reached much more the 25psi – but I can confirm it was enough to pebble dash the ceiling!
thisisnotaspoonFree MemberCheck the bead is OK after that. Mine let go spectacularly as the kevlar string gave at about 15-17psi. OO warentied that one!
But yea, 15-20 max should seat them without a tube. With a tube its dam near impossible, just give up as it cant be felt whilst riding.
lightmanFree MemberLots of people put floaters up to 40 psi to help seat them, yours sound like they were faulty.
You should contact OO it the tyre is now knackered after blowing up.To seat tight tyres, you just have to use lots of lube!
Are you on Facebook, as there was just a pile of posts about people trying different methods to seat/lube tyres.pimpmyrideFree MemberI have the new on one fatty trail with Emmantel rims and Guapo XD Drive hubs.
The 1st line of rims were a bugger but the newest ones have revised bead seats and its easy peasy to get them seated.I tried everything with my original fatty (the white version) to get the floaters to run right and never managed it.
I now have mine setup tubeless and they have been faultless in every condition for the last 6 months! 🙂
rickmeisterFull MemberPtfe spray works fine for me, wipe some on the tyre bead and the shoulder of the rim up to the edge to help the tyre slide and seat…
kayak23Full MemberLots of advice getting the bead to seat but what about keeping it there? That’s been my issue.
I got mine to seat ok on my Wazoo but they just won’t hold and weep when riding.
I think I’m going to try ghetto next.pimpmyrideFree Memberkayak23 = Mine are tubeless ghetto on the fatty trailusing floaters and they are bloomin awesome mate!
I can tell you the whole process I went through and even send you some pics. I’m running them at silly low pressures and they have’nt once burped 🙂freddiestFull MemberI’d be interested in some info pimpmyride.
Just got my fatty with emmental rims so wouldn’t mind going tubeless.
pimpmyrideFree MemberNo probs buddy, i’ll update this with some pics later but for now i’ll explain how I did mine.
Tools/parts needed
Schwalbe AV10D tubes x 2
Stans sealent (8oz in each tyre)
Vaseline (for the tyres :))
Small amount of Gorilla tape or other decent waterproof tape
Wood floor foam underlay or something similair
Chocolate hob nobs (optional)
Cup of tea (essential)So….whip off the tyres.
Make sure the rim tape is not interupting the side of the rim or too close to the bead seat, I got a brand new stanley blade and trimmed it very carefully so the rim tape was only sat in the inside diameter of the rim.
Next (very important) get yourself either some wood floor underlay (foam) or what I used was a fold up gym matt made of foam that was 5mm thick. This is needed to to push out the tube when you put it on so that when you mount the tyre it will be nice and tight so it airs up super easy and beads easily too.
I only had to run 1 piece round as it was 5mm thick (but extremely light) but if using underfloor foam then maybe 2 wraps.
Don’t over lap the joints though! finish them 1″ apart and use a 10″ piece of Gorilla tape or similair to join them together. on the 2nd wrap round start it well away from where the last joint finished and then seal again with a 10″ piece of tape ensuring 5″ each side of the wrap.
You don’t need to wrap this in Gorilla tape as trust me it will stay in place.
Next get your 2 24″ downhill tubes. make sure they are schwalbe as you can take the valve core out. plus if you ever get a burp you can connect them to the petrol station air machine as they are car type valves 🙂
Put a small amount of air in the tubes and very carefully get some sharp scissors and cut all the way round on the centre seal which is easily followed.
Wash them thoroughly with soapy water and dry them.
Stretch them on to the rims and get them as centred as possible.
Mount the tyres which should feel nice and tight on the rim.
Using a small paint brush run vaseline (thinly) around the inner tube where the tyre bead will seat. This is a little fiddly but just fold the tyre back a little.
Then inflate the tyres 🙂 this will be super easy and I did it with the Joe Blow!
Pump them up to around 20 psi or until they seat which again I must say will be easy 🙂Leave them for an hour eat choccy hob nobs have a brew and then deflate.
Add your stans, pump them back up, put on your chosen music track and begin the stans shake and roll!
Do the other wheel, fit the wheels and go ride!If your worried about the thickness of the tubes being downhill and the tyres not beading correctly then don’t! the whole thing from start to finish was a total breeze and after doing it the 1st time they have not lost a single psi in 6 months.
Enjoy 🙂
kayak23Full MemberCheers for that Pimpmyride. I’ll be trying it but will try to use Presta valves. The one’s I’ve got coming do use removable cores.
The foam, it seems that it’s basically an aid to getting the bead seated, but does it help keep it there? I suppose the thickness of the inner tube helps tighten things up a bit on a floppy tyre/rim combo.
wwaswasFull Memberthe foam’s there to stop the bead slipping back down into the well where the spokes are really, so yes it does help keep it seated.
thisisnotaspoonFree MemberLots of advice getting the bead to seat but what about keeping it there? That’s been my issue.
I got mine to seat ok on my Wazoo but they just won’t hold and weep when riding.
I think I’m going to try ghetto next.I used a foam method and posted pics up on here, you can probably find it on google.
It worked fine up front, the weeping stops after a few rides as dry sealant builds up on the bead. But the rear would come off the bead and burp as there’s no inner wall to support the bead when it lifts off. It’s obviously much harder to burp a front tyre as it’s usually pointing where it’s going, not leant over sideways.
maksogunFree MemberI bought Floaters last week, and mine were pretty loose on the rims as well. inflated them to stated max psi (20) and they too were completely out of shape. Over inflated them (not sure by how much – 4 extra pumps on track pump 😉 ) and left them. Ready to ride 20min later
ndthorntonFree Memberthisisnotaspoon
I have been to hell and back trying to get my floater set up tubeless on the front (fatty front wheel – self drilled).
I finally got it inflated after attempting various taping methods and building a high pressure, fire extinguisher based inflation device 🙂
Unfortunately it wasn’t seated on the bead properly, it wobbled loads and burped at low pressure – as you would expect.
At 30 PSI I finally popped it onto the bead, triumphantly carried it across the garage ready to let most of the air back out and it exploded just like yours! covered me in sp*nk, nearly deafened me and scared the sh*t out of me and the neighbors. I’m sure the reason for this was taping all the way up to the bead hook with gorilla tape and therefor over stretching the tyre bead till it snapped.
Didn’t give up – bought a new tyre, re-taped the rim stopping short of the bead hook and seated the tyre – easily this time and sealed up nicely. Dropped to 6 PSI and went for a ride. What a nightmare! Now the tyre was too loose on the bead and burped constantly when banking into corners..needing constant shaking and re inflating. Got round the ride but only just.
Came up with 3rd and final solution….
Stuck a tube in – works fine 🙂
Ghetto tubeless works fine on all my skinny wheels and could maybe work on this setup but its just too unreliable and frankly dangerous to be honest… and doesn’t allow me to run really low pressures which is what the fat wheel is for – I would say you need proper UST equipment to get tubeless working on a Fat bike.
pimpmyrideFree MemberI can’t stress enough how well ghetto tubeless works on the NEW emmantel rim and el guapo wheel set.
The OLD set is a different story, the 1st white version of the fatty came with rims that have a different bead set to the new trail fatty rim set. I know as iv’e owned both, dismantled, fought, cried, and tried everything to get them round or tubeless and no luck!The new wheelset was done almost blindfolded as it was so easy. super reliable and i’m running them at 8 psi, no burping, no psi loss.
I don’t think this is luck but purely the fact that after much moaning and phoning On One they finally acknowledged the issue with the 1st wheel batch and redesigned the new ones which also included them being drilled and being future proofed with the Sram XD Drive system.
epicycloFull MemberI reckon I’d just whack a bead of silicon sealant around the beads and do a proper job of sealing it. Something like a marine version ought to do the job.
It’s not as if tyres get slashed very often so the goo inside should fix small holes.
Tyre changes would be more fun though. 🙂
thisisnotaspoonFree MemberI dunno why you struggled on the front, the rear is a PITA, but the front went up and stayed there until the sealent dried out.
Planning another attempt at some point with a lot of electrical tape to build up the bead seat.
I keep hearing mixed opinions of the emmental rims, much like the originals, they work for some people and then not others. They’re the same as the Halo rims which have a similarly poor reputation for tubeless.
rocketmanFree Memberexplosion
[quote]sealant[/quote]
vaseline
[quote]tape[/quote]
foam
[quote]seated[/quote]
fire extinguisher
etc
If only there was some sort of inflatable tube you could put inside the tyreNorthwindFull Memberpimpmyride – Member
I don’t think this is luck but purely the fact that after much moaning and phoning On One they finally acknowledged the issue with the 1st wheel batch and redesigned the new ones
No On-One design involved, it’s a common low-end rim that they’ve rebranded. Exact same rim as you get on the Dune frinstance, it’s also sold under the POG brand. They’re alright tbh, I’m happy with mine for OE wheels on a £500 bike, I wouldn’t buy them otherwise though.
Mine went tubeless fairly easily with foam and tube- very reliable. Packing tape’s not worked yet but I’m not done.
sq225917Free MemberYou can leave 40psi in floaters overnight, no bother ,to help them seat if you really need to.
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