Well my fatty arrived and I’ve just assembled it and I need some advice.

The rear wheel seems to be sitting squint in the frame, even taking out tyre wobble, measuring from the rim to the stays there seems to be a discrepancy of up to 7mm.

Ive made sure its sitting right in the dropout and i’ll be contacting on-one on monday but I wondered if theres anything I don’t know? It is my first fatty.

Your thoughts appreciated, new bike and I can’t even have a go COBBLERS!

Put the wheel in the wrong way round.
If it’s off-centre in the other direction then the wheel just needs re-dished. If it stays off-centre in the same way as before, then the frame is on the wonk.

You’ve tried the wheel the other way to eliminate dish?

Just turned the wheel and its unchanged, so it looks like the frame is squint? the stays aren’t assymetric I suppose?

Check for paint in the dropout. Could be it’s simply not sitting straight if it’s been applied to thickly.

AFAIK the On One fatty has symmetric dropouts and, in any case, the tube shaping should make the clearance at the tyre even.

If the axle is seating properly then paint won’t be the issue.

As Scotroutes says check for excess paint in the dropouts, the Fattys are usually bob-on for alignment. Check the hanger on drive side is fully seated, a bit of paint behind the hanger can throw a wheel out.

Thanks for the help guys, I’ve got the morning off tomorrow so i’ll check the dropouts and hanger and contact them to see what they say.

Well everyones a winner! close inspection shows that thick paint was stopping the axle dropping completely into the dropout, got it in there and its straight as a die.

And i’ve got the morning off and its crisp and sunny, woo-hoo!

Thanks again for the advice 😀

Brill. Now get out there and enjoy it!

wup! 😀

And i’ve got the morning off and its crisp and sunny, woo-hoo!

Where are you, then? It’s blowing a hooley with horizontal rain (*so* much less boring than the ordinary up-and-down kind) here.

Scotland- land of eternal sunshine (today)

Love the bike, the grip is immense and I’m not sure its much heavier than my P7 to be honest. Tho as someone who has never even had a go on a full suss bike having a bouncy rear (oo-er) is a bit weird and how **** wide are the handlebars 😀

The bars are indeed nuts. I swapped to some 777mm knuckleballs to shed some weight and even though it’s only an inch narrower they feel more sensible.

The bouncy rear end is even more pronounced to full sus riders.
For the first mile I’m bouncing all over the place as I pedal. Then you smooth your pedalling and it’s not an issue.
As a person who has only ridden full sus for the last 5 years I’m really enjoying climbing out of the saddle. No fork bob and instant power to the rear.
I’ve been eyeing up the Fatty Trail but have decided I’d rather a few bumps just to keep that lovely direct climbing experience.

@ Sweepy – as someone who is still fairly new to fat biking themselves, I’d recommend trying out different tyre pressure. It’s amazing the difference 1psi can make. I was surprised how low I ended up.

Enjoy it.

How low is low? I’m running 8psi.

looks like its back to the shops for me then, my pump guage starts at 10 🙂

Relevant #whatpressureyourunning http://blog.brooksengland.com/wps/the-fat-is-out-of-the-bag-2/

zippykona – Member
How low is low? I’m running 8psi.

Really depends on a number of factors: how heavy you are, how wide your tyres are and the trail conditions.

For me at 11 stone (OK 11.5 🙂 ) and Nates on dryish trails – remember them anybody? – I run about 11psi

Depends on you and the tyres tbh, and how you ride. I think I have 5psi in the front minion and 7 in the rear 4.8 JJ- but 7 in the 4.0 JJ was useless for me, frequent punctures. Not sure yet if the 7 in the 4.8 is high enough. Just got to experiment really I think.

And for that matter, get a good gauge… 1psi is a minor variation in an mtb tyre and an irrelevant variation on the road, in a fatbike it’s huge. Topeak’s one isn’t cheap but it’s good.

As Northwind says, the Topeak one is excellent.

I’m a racing snake and started at around 10psi (nates) but have been working my way down 1psi at a time. They are very draggy on the tarmac sections but great offroad at 6psi (my current experiment).

Another bit of sage advice (from UK fat bikes) was to buy mudguards. Never been a fan of mudguards but pretty soon saw how well a fat bike does a muck spreader impression.

Sorry if I’ve just spent a bit more money for you 😉

Oh god yes, especially if you’re riding in snow- snowmelt water is absolutely grim without mudguards.

My Mrs is going to kill you lot

what (cheap and fantastic) mudguards for 4″ tyres ?

The knucklebars are a good choice they’ll transform the cockpit, same for the carbon forks if you didn’t get them.

The Floaters are pretty light in the sidewall, so if you’re charging hard in corners 9-10psi gives a good feel unless you’re over 12stone then go up to 11psi.