Viewing 40 posts - 1 through 40 (of 58 total)
  • family / bike van for £15k (I know it's been done to death…)
  • reggiegasket
    Free Member

    So we all know the Transporter is the daddy but I’m not fussed about badge or anything like that. I have up to £15k to buy a family van. Won’t be used for work, just family driving and bike trips, so I need side windows, rear seats and a car-like experience. MPG isn’t a big deal as mileage is low.

    I know there are many variables but what are the obvious choices, things to avoid, engine sizes etc.?

    legend
    Free Member

    reggiegasket – Member

    So we all know the Transporter is the daddy…………..and a car-like experience

    You’re going to be massively disappointed if you get a Transporter then – high, bouncy, rolly polly, basically a van. We’ve just gone from a Vito to a Transporter, both myself and the Mrs are much bigger fans of the way the Vito drives (and she’s the one that puts in the serious mileage).

    To hand it to it, the MPG is bloody impressive thought! 140bhp version, for example yesterday it returned 42mpg on a run along motorways and twisty A-roads. 135bhp Vito probably would’ve been around 37mpg on the same trip.

    reggiegasket
    Free Member

    Let’s say, “drives well for a van” then.

    I’m tempted by the Transit Custom – anyone got one? I could even spend a bit more and go new on that.

    Simon
    Full Member

    If only a bike magazine had done a group test on such vehicles….

    Simon
    Full Member
    reggiegasket
    Free Member

    Ta.

    £15k will get you a newer Transit than a T5 though…

    hb70
    Full Member

    Buy a T5 panel van for £c12k dep on mileage. Go to somewhere like Exploria to put in side windows, a back bench seat, seatbelts, tint windows. Then spend money on lowering/alloys if that’s important to you. That’s your £15k

    We bought ours for 12k bought plus £2k of makingitsafeforafamily/seatbelts/seats etc. 8 years later we could still sell it for 9k

    We’ll do it again when this one gives in but its broken down once in 8 years.

    I would
    -look for one with decent spec electric pack/aircon
    -rubber floor for sweeping out stuff
    -lower it- it drives nicer and looks better
    -17 or 18″ alloys (as above). We have 16″
    -check and see if the service history says water pump has gone. Known fault.
    -we have a 174bhp and it makes it drive like a car but it makes little difference because we rarely speed anywhere. 130/40 bhp nice but 115 is fine.
    -have a bench in the front and back. For family life its nice being able to seat 6.
    -SWB not LWB.
    -the above gives you an industrial finish. I don’t care but don’t expect upholstery for that price.

    monkeysfeet
    Free Member

    A friend has one of these
    http://www.autotrader.co.uk/used-cars/hyundai/i800/used-hyundai-i800-2-5-crdi-style-5dr-grimsby-fpa-201505013106689?logcode=p
    Hyundai i800. Used it came with a huuuge warranty, great mpg, loads of space and is very, very comfy.

    reggiegasket
    Free Member

    cheers hb70

    br
    Free Member

    I’d not get a van unless it had a tailgate rather than doors, if for nothing else than to be able to shelter under from the rain.

    howsyourdad1
    Free Member

    Hb70 sorry to ask. You say check if the service history says the water pump has gone as its a know fault. Is it better if it has gone and been repaired…?

    hb70
    Full Member

    Hi Reggie. Not a mechanic so this is all by experience and check out some proper van threads. The Brickyard is excellent. I think if its gone and been fixed then newer waterpumps are ok. Look out for watery residue when you unscrew the oil cap on the engine as a hint that its leaking.

    http://www.brick-yard.co.uk/forum/how-to-replace-water-pump-updated_topic25489.html

    The tailgate/ not doors is another good shout. We have doors and I’d prefer a tailgate.

    properbikeco
    Free Member

    water pump is a weakness

    you want to make sure it has been replaced – on some vehicles if they break they can wreck the timing belt and plough the pistons into the valves = £££££££

    better to ensure it has been done, or budget replacing it ASAP

    mark90
    Free Member

    -have a bench in the front and back. For family life its nice being able to seat 6.

    We have two singles up front, and I like the ability to easily step through, especially handy with young kids.

    Also twin sliding doors is a big bonus with young kids too. You can always exit them on the safe side. And with the O/S door being right by the drivers door it does get used more than the N/S.

    A Tailgate was higher on my wants list than twin sliders. But having lived with both I’d now put the twin sliders above the tailgate.

    All just personal preference of course, like my preference for a LWB 🙂

    mark90
    Free Member

    you want to make sure it has been replaced – on some vehicles if they break they can wreck the timing belt and plough the pistons into the valves = £££££££

    The issue with the 2.5 T5’s is the water pump is in the block and the weekness is the seal keeping the water and oil seperate. So failure is similar symptoms to a HG failure. Still £££££ though 🙁

    john_l
    Free Member

    Lowering makes a huge difference to T5 handling, as long as it’s done properly. 30mm H&R springs on my factory Kombi with twin sliding doors. Also had Pendle remap the 102 1.9 to 140 ish – really is great to drive.

    Keep toying with selling it as I don’t use it that often, but I know I’d regret it.

    reggiegasket
    Free Member

    Is fitting twin-sliding doors done as part of the conversion?

    Tranny custom seems too new to get under £15k… and less around than a T5.

    hb70
    Full Member

    No. You only get one sliding door as standard. I’ve never seen it as an issue. Lowering yes, tailgate yes, but one side door has never bothered me. We use ours as the only family car so SWB is easier to park.

    hora
    Free Member

    If I was spending 15k I’d get a Transporter and as new as possible. Look upto 100m radius.

    reggiegasket
    Free Member

    okay it looks like we’re erring towards a T5…

    would you buy a van and convert, or get a kombi that’s ready to drive?

    What are the advantages of the conversion route?

    what engine/version is the one to go for (either van or kombi)

    hb70
    Full Member

    Have a look on Ebay. Your factory Kombi’s are loads. The pre made conversions you pay a big premium for- lots of high mileage ones on Ebay which seem really pricey to me.

    If you do it yourself, go to one of these converter places who will fit seats, windows and seatbelts. Work out what you want to do re wheels lowering, how much it will cost, then work backwards to see what you can afford for a van.

    These people did mine. Nice people and will give you an idea of cost

    http://www.exploria-online.co.uk/day-vans.aspx

    The other option if you can find one is to look for a good quality T4. All the same applies really except you will have enough money left for a decent respray, lining the back with play & carpet etc.

    ElShalimo
    Full Member

    Also bear in mind how busy the converters are. Exploria is booked up until October for full camper conversions but should be quicker for Kombi conversion.
    They do very high quality work if you can afford it

    Spin
    Free Member

    Transit Custom

    Don’t know about the custom but my transit is rapidly turning into a rust bucket.

    spooky_b329
    Full Member

    Twin sliding doors – look at ex BT Transits and Vivaros. Almost all of them are spec’d with twin sliders.

    benp1
    Full Member

    How do the following things apply to vans-converted-to-Kombis, compared with factory kombis
    1 – MOT
    2 – Vehicle Excise Duty
    3 – Insurance
    4 – Speed limits

    legend
    Free Member

    Kombi is just a van with some extra seats, all of the above stays as per a normal van

    hora
    Free Member

    Ps. I’m not a big fan of the T5 scene but if I’m dropping 15k I wouldn’t want a Transit. Even I acknowledge that you retain a fair wedge of your money in a depreciating van if you buy a T5. Thats king.

    mark90
    Free Member

    Kombi is just a van with some extra seats, all of the above stays as per a normal van

    Unless it is a factory Kombi that is classed as an M1 passenger vehicle on the V5. Some years of T5 are like this, but think the newer T5.1 kombis are all N1 commercials.

    If it’s M1 then it’s basically a ‘car’ for MOT/VED/Speed etc

    benp1
    Full Member

    I thought the Factory Kombi was actually more reinforced, so it’s actually safer for passengers. Normal van not unsafe, just Factory version safer

    Thought similar for other factors above, but don’t know for sure, hence the question

    legend
    Free Member

    Unless it is a factory Kombi that is classed as an M1 passenger vehicle on the V5. Some years of T5 are like this, but think the newer T5.1 kombis are all N1 commercials.

    If it’s M1 then it’s basically a ‘car’ for MOT/VED/Speed etc

    Ah yes, here we are in vague van rule world again. I’ve got a mate with an older one, taxed as a car but still has van limits as far as he’s concerned. Our newer one (2014) is definitely taxed as a van, don’t think we’ll ever need to MOT it so not paid any attention to that.

    benp1, the reason the limits are lower is due to the ropey way that vans tend to be loaded, rather than the structure of the vehicle itself.

    jam-bo
    Full Member

    M1 gets car speed limits. N1 gets van speed limits (50 in NSL is the only significant difference)

    M1 pays car tax rates which are based on emmisions rates so can be expensive, N1 pays flat rate commercial which is ~£250

    N1 is on van insurance which can be tricky, NFU seemed the best bet for me.

    benp1
    Full Member

    Presumably the only way to check each one is to look at the V5?

    A conversion will also therefore be an N1?

    sturdylad
    Free Member

    My 2p…

    Look for a tidy T5 facelift model with aircon and electric window as a base.Look to spend about £11-12k inc Vat. Engine (hp) is less of an issue as the only difference between the lower powered models and the 140bhp ones is the 6 speed gearbox. A decent pendle remap will get you a reliable 140ish Bhp for sensible money.

    Then look at getting some caravelle rails and caravelle folding rear seat fitted. This won’t be cheap but it give brilliant flexibility and a bed if you ever need one. The fitting of the rails is probably best left to a specialist as you need to drop the fuel tank.
    You can ply line and carpet and insulate it to a nice standard for very little money and it’s easy DIY (I’ve just done this with a mate)
    Side windows aren’t overly expensive and can be fitted by any competent window fitter.
    Spending wisely and getting stuck in you could just about scrape inside your £15k budget

    Lowering is next on my list

    Have a look round the T5 forum for any number of specialists, or let me know and I’ll pass on any info I’ve picked up in my year of T5 ownership.

    A few before and after pictures of mine
    My Van

    mikewsmith
    Free Member

    N1 is on van insurance which can be tricky, NFU seemed the best bet for me.

    This one always confuses me, in 5 years I never struggled to insure my van.
    http://www.gocompare.com/van-insurance/

    mark90
    Free Member

    N1 is on van insurance which can be tricky, NFU seemed the best bet for me.

    Having used specilist insurers rather than the more main stream ones for my “not a straight forward car” vehicles (modified Land Rovers, self built camper van etc) I did initially with my T5 kombi. This time ended up with Direct Line (who I had used previouly for cars). They were almost half the price of the specialist. They didn’t care if it was N1 or M1, just the number of seats. No problem with NCB transfer.

    jam-bo
    Full Member

    N1 is on van insurance which can be tricky, NFU seemed the best bet for me.

    i spoke to a few companies about commercial vehicle for personal use and as soon as I said 6 seats they mostly went ‘Wha????’

    NFU were really good, really clear, gave me 7 yrs no claims as I couldnt transfer the 12yrs no-claims discount from my car policy.

    mark90
    Free Member

    Presumably the only way to check each one is to look at the V5?

    A conversion will also therefore be an N1?

    Yes to both. The classification can not be changed.

    sturdylad
    Free Member

    Brentacre for Insurance, on my second year with them now, they beat all quotes at renewal time and thoroughly understand the business of converted vans

    legend
    Free Member

    M1 gets car speed limits. N1 gets van speed limits (50 in NSL is the only significant difference)

    and 60 on dual carriageways (as my missus can prove)

    Worth a look here, especially as it doesn’t mention M/N1 but does go onto discuss “dual-use vehicles” and even then you have to be careful https://www.gov.uk/speed-limits

    mark90
    Free Member

    it doesn’t mention M/N1

    Because most people wouldn’t then undertand it. Ask my missus if she drives and M1/N1 vehicle and you’ll get a blank look.

    Basically M1 is a car.

    Category M1: Vehicles designed and constructed for the carriage of passengers and comprising no more than eight seats in addition to the driver’s seat.

    Category N1: Vehicles designed and constructed for the carriage of goods and having a maximum mass not exceeding 3,5 tonnes.

    The T5 shuttles are also M1/Car/people carriers, describe them how you want. If they had more seats they would be M2, which is a minibus.

    Category M2: Vehicles designed and constructed for the carriage of passengers, comprising more than eight seats in addition to the driver’s seat, and having a maximum mass not exceeding 5 tonnes.

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