I’m trying it out of interest and because my 2×9 (22/36 and 11/34 cassette) set up was nearly worn out. It’s tidied the bars up a bit and in particular allows the reverb remote to sit more comfortably. With a One-Up 42t ring and 32t chain ring I think I have lost less than a full gear off one end of the range and a bit more than one gear off the other. Seems to be manageable on Dartmoor. Dropped a small amount of weight although I hadn’t thought of it as much as a 1lb.

However, I’ve never really had much issue with dropped chains, and I quite like the panic mode of a front ring downshift which is obviously not possible now. Time will tell if I stick with it or just go 2×10.

Depending on your choice of ring size you might have to accept your top speed on the road is a bit slower. Only you will know if this is an acceptable draw back. I happily run a 36t on the front so I don’t spin out until I’m on a descent hill and my mph is way into the 30’s.

@markshires Some say they spin out too easily but by the time I get to that sort of speed (about 30mph at 115rpm) I’m happy to freewheel 8)

edit I’m on a 29er with 30T front and 11-40T rear. There’s a calculator here – http://www.machars.net/bikecalc.htm to work it all out.

Cheers whitestone.

Doesn’t sound like it will be a problem then. I think it is something that I may have to consider myself.

Spinning out is not a problem.

Actually I found with a 36t chainring on 26″ wheels it was undergeared for riding to the trails on the road. Descents are fine, freewheeling isn’t a problem, it was long fast sections of road, much above 22ish mph got very spinny, enough to be a pain! Spinning out isnt the specific issue.

32t chainring on 29″ wheels and a 10t sprocket have sorted that.

I’ve got a 1×10 to make me climb harder, saving weight is much easier and far cheaper by have by a dump imho.

When I the thread title 1x I thoughT it was about single speeds but no. Given I ride a single speed alot and up some very steep climbs 11 is best.

I’m far from the average rider. I’m chunky to say the least, and get over everything with 1x I could with 3x. if I’m spinning 22×36 up a hill I might as well walk, it’s that slow.

if I’m spinning 22×36 up a hill I might as well walk, it’s that slow.

While this may be true i absolutely hate getting off the bike once on a ride…walking with the bike is not pleasant as its not a natural ‘walk’ as you’re leaning to one side pushing a 30lb full susser up a hill!….crap.

…secondly i get a perverse satisfaction from cleaning all the climbs on a ride even if it means grinding the lowest gear at slower than walking pace.

Never dropped the chain on a 2×10 since i’ve been back into MTBing over the last 5 years….i had a poorly setup 1×9 bike that would wrap the chain around the bottom bracket with alarming regularity….and thats the crux of the matter, it comes down to how well set up your system is whether its a 1x or 2x or even 3x….

Each to his own but having changed to Sram 1×11 courtesy of a new bike I can honestly say whatever tiny bit of range I have lost I genuinely cannot notice, either uphill or downhill. What I do love though is the ultra secure chain, near silent operation and Sram matchmaker clamps meaning my Reverb remote is in the perfect place. I don’t particularly care about the weight but the whole system works fantastically well.

I went 1x because it was easier than learning how to set up a front mech (I still me maintain they work by magic). That any my bike at the time was a not-so-lovely BB386 crank with a 26/42 chainring combination, I found I was cross chaining in races and when I did try to shift up/down on the front I would drop the chain completely, so decided to go to 1x instead, because it was just simpler.

I went 1x because it was easier than learning how to set up a front mech

I suppose the ability to set up a front mech will soon become one of those forgotten skills. Like setting up V-brakes and riding fast without the motivation of Strava.