mr plow

Interesting, but as you say still not real world (without pedals etc).

I think 29lbs is a fantastic weight for what is a very bombproof bike for most types of riding. You could save a bit on the tyres and by going for a 34mm fork (or the new pike) but it’s not going to add up to much really.

My 2012 is just under 29 on bathroom scales so give or take in the same ball park as expected. The CCDB will be heavier whan my float etc. Would not get too wound up by it as my bike still feels pretty light to me at this weight as I am used to it’s heavier brother. Your build looks ace and you will so get too cocky on it and be watching it rolling down a rocky hillside. At this point you will be glad you never spent more on lighter parts

My Sworks epic in XL with crests and a reverb is 25 odd I think that’s a good weight given the ability of the frame and kit mate!

Out of curiosity I will re-weigh mine. I think OP the biggest change for you is out and out XC build wheels and tyres for your XC marathons using Stans and non-tubeless tyres. That should get some weight off!

Interesting, but as you say still not real world (without pedals etc).

He’s also got a rp23, not a CCDBa.
Is that a 29er? 29lbs is a very respectable weight for something that capable with that much rubber on it!

Weight loss without performance loss at a sensible price-

Carbon bars
Renthal non lock-on grips
Xtr m970 cranks
Works components XX ‘copy’ chainring and clutch mech so you can lose the chain device.

Otherwise I’d leave it exactly as it is!

I would ride the pants out it until it has some scratches, you will stop worrying about it then.

mr plow – it does already, if I keep going out riding at this rate I could end up divorced 😕

Deew – sound like sensible upgrades to consider..thanks.

The forks on mine weigh alot less than my old Lyrik 2 step airs and perform alot better than them. So much so that the Lyriks on Kevins S Works build are going onto Abigales Reign for the Alps and a new set of Futureshock 160s are on the way from the States at a bargain price.

Thats lurvely! Very tempted to upgrade mine.

My 2010 Enduro weighs in at a hair under 30lbs (with pedals), built with a set of Fox 36 160mm Vans, reverb, tubeless, m4’s and some carbon bits, and in my mind its the forks that are the cherry on the enduro cake 😀

I’m having trouble leaving it for another bike.

Thinking about putting some 160mm Kashima Talas 36’s and a Float CTD on my S-Works

Completely sensible build at a completely sensible weight. Don’t **** with it. Bars and grips could lose a decent amount with little or no compromise. Tyres maybe, depends what version they are. Tubes?

That makes me feel better about my 2011 comp weighing 31.5 lbs!

Swap the 36’s for something lighter, maybe 150mm Magura’s/Revs?

chakaping

Please don’t take this advice.

I would agree with chakaping here 100%, and also take umbridge with people advising you to go for 34s. That’s some very bad advice. Fox 36s are vastly superior to their 34 counterparts, and virtualy any comparable fork, not just in terms of stiffness but also in terms of damping. The 200grams or so difference could easily be saved elsewhere. I’ve got 2012 36 fit rlc talas with kashima coating and they blow every other fork out of the water. It’s a massive down grade.

You could get a selle slr tt saddle which will drop about 80 grams. That’s half the difference in the forks. Also, if you really wanted to feel a difference fit some lighter rubber. Nobby Nic evo 2.25s front and rear for example would save you a pound or more straight away but it would feel like 3 or 4 as it’s off the wheels and they are faster rolling (that’s only if they’re up to your riding). And if you were feeling really silly you could say, plash out on some Haven carbon wheels or something. I’d go full xtr on brakes and drivetrain but I really wouldn’t change very much else. Lovely lovely bike.

would agree with chakaping here 100%, and also take umbridge with people advising you to go for 34s. That’s some very bad advice. Fox 36s are vastly superior to their 34 counterparts, and virtualy any comparable fork, not just in terms of stiffness but also in terms of damping. The 200grams or so difference could easily be saved elsewhere. I’ve got 2012 36 fit rlc talas with kashima coating and they blow every other fork out of the water. It’s a massive down grade.

Although they are not as stiff as the 36, that does not mean they are not stiff. Took a demo bike out with some 34’s and was happy through the big boulders and baby heads. A great move by fox, the 36 is overkill for all but the most extreme stuff but there wasn’t another option as the 32 was far too flexi in comparison.
The CTD damping has come in for a bit of a hammering recently, having ridden the 34 CTD I was impressed. There is some advice to add 15ml more float fluid in there to improve the feel which may sort a few of the reported issues. I’m speccing the 160 CTD with Trail Adjust on my new bike.

It’s a massive down grade

Doesn’t matter. Performance is secondary to a number on a scale on this thread.

Thinking about putting some 160mm Kashima Talas 36’s and a Float CTD on my S-Works

Bad idea.

My initial thought was to ditch the 36s too, but for 32s!

I don’t doubt that 34s + 36s are stiffer and if Jimjam says 36s are better by far, then i’d believe him. But, here’s the thing. I’ve a set of 32s on my Stumpy Evo and before riding the bike I was convinced they needed changing as my experience with 32mm forks at 150-160 length led me to believe they’d be terribly flexy (Dual Air revs). But they’re not, they’re far stiffer than the revs I had (tapered steerer must be doing something) and not the confidence vacuum i’d thought they’d be. Any flex (and there still is some) seems to be controlled to the point that it actually improves the front end feeling. I was surprised and impressed and i’ve currently no plans on swapping them for a more aesthetically pleasing fork. So if you’re really wanting to shed a bit of weight, it might be worth considering.

p.s. Lovely bike 😀

Eh…… Wrong thread! Sorry! 😳

A wild stab in the dark, but i’m not sure a 150mm Fox 32 would be mated particulary well to a 165mm travel Enduro.

mikewsmith

Although they are not as stiff as the 36, that does not mean they are not stiff. Took a demo bike out with some 34’s and was happy through the big boulders and baby heads. A great move by fox, the 36 is overkill for all but the most extreme stuff but there wasn’t another option as the 32 was far too flexi in comparison.
The CTD damping has come in for a bit of a hammering recently, having ridden the 34 CTD I was impressed. There is some advice to add 15ml more float fluid in there to improve the feel which may sort a few of the reported issues. I’m speccing the 160 CTD with Trail Adjust on my new bike.

Each to their own mike, personally I found 34s way below par. the extra stiffness of the 36, plus the better damping, plus the near negligible weight difference means for me 34s are a pointless excercise in gram counting. I’m not doing “the most extreme” stuff, but I am pedaling up to ride down dh tracks. The type of riding the enduro there excels at.

You can also take into consideration the fact that most dh bikes are 20mm so any proper tough wheelsets you might have lying around are likely to be 20mm and if recall correctly 20mm hubs are actually a few grams lighter than 15mm 🙂

At the end of the day if the op is chasing figures on a scale then he should go for a lighter fork, but if he’s chasing figures on a stopwatch (say at an enduro) then he’ll be quicker with the 36’s.

‘A wild stab in the dark, but i’m not sure a 150mm Fox 32 would be mated particulary well to a 165mm travel Enduro.’

My 32s are 150mm but measure 163mm. That said i think the last 10mm of travel is just for show, as for the life of me, i can’t get them to bottom out.

At the end of the day if the op is chasing figures on a scale then he should go for a lighter fork, but if he’s chasing figures on a stopwatch (say at an enduro) then he’ll be quicker with the 36’s.

That’s quite an assumption.

29lb is a stunning effort and well done for posting the scales pic.

I’m really sorry Tracey, but very skeptical of the weight of yours though (I’m sure you don’t care though :P) – if it was weighed before you bought it, I’m willing to bet that was without pedals (add a pound) and probably a few ounces of rounding.

If you want to have a lighter fork than a 36 with same or better performance go for Bos Devilles – best of both worlds. Lighter than a 36, better damping performance than a 36 or 34 (the latter according to reviews…)and with a 20mm axle. Ridden 36’s often and they are great but not quite as good as the Devilles.

I think the OP decided he was happy with the weight after all, didn’t he?

If not – and if he’s still reading – maybe have a look at the new RS Pike when it’s available?

I’m beginning to think that the OP is barking up the wrong tree. 29lb for a 165mm do-everything bike is pretty darned impressive, especially one with a dropper post, 36s and durable tyres.

Don’t forget that in the showroom, they’re fitted with Spesh S-Works tyres which are very lightweight thanks to flimsy sidewalls.

FWIW, if you’re thinking of spending a small fortune on a set of forks to bring the weight down by half a pound, then you maybe ought to consider buying a second bike?

Thanks again for the comments.

I’ve since taken the sworks for a couple more rides in this 29lb guise and its feels plenty quick enough going up, and very comparable in feel to some of 140mm trail bikes i’ve had, but so much more confident on the desents.

36’s feel amazing coming from a trail bike with 32’s. As suggested above RS Pikes could very well be a good middle ground with there low claimed weight but I’m not spending any more cash on it as I simply dont have it 😕

If I want to do a long punishing ride of distance I turn to my road bike… If I want to have fun for a few hours, then enduro is where its at 😀

Glad you are satisfied with your bike OP. it is a fantastic machine with a great build!