Ive upgraded the shock to a monarch rc3 and still cant keep up with the boys.
Should I sell and get an xc bike ad only ride at cannock.
Or purchase a different frame maybe that components will fit on as its like new really.
Any recommendations on frames accepted that this 370 pounds brand new shock will fit on
Thanks lee

Most of the weight will be in the components, so changing frame will help, but it is an expensive way of saving weight.
If you’re only riding XC, then I would definitely get a ligther XC bike (maybe something steel if you want it to be a bit more burly).
If not, then you could just upgrade a few components, tyres and wheels to start, with a view of changing frame in the not too distant future when you can afford it.

Great frames, my 06 is my main bike. My only problems are the weight, which I don’t really mind, and the top tube is too short for me. Don’t think you will find much to fit the shock to.

Its training you need to do to keep up with your mates not buying an xc bike. I recently bought an old road bike on eBay for pennies and going out on short intensive rides really helps my climbing.

Ive upgraded the shock to a monarch rc3 and still cant keep up with the boys.
Should I sell and get an xc bike ad only ride at cannock.
Or purchase a different frame maybe that components will fit on as its like new really.
Any recommendations on frames accepted that this 370 pounds brand new shock will fit on

you seem to have fallen into the trap of thinking a lighter/better/newer bike will make you fitter 😉

training, and pedal harder, unless you’re racing or out on all dayers/6hr + rides then a slightly lighter bike will only make a small difference in the grand scheme of things.

maybe look at your tyre choice though, some lighter, faster rubber can make a world of difference and is a relatively cheap and easy way to get some extra zip without much bother.

Thats a fair point and I can work on the fitnesd at the local trail/hills in derby its just ive read about this bike being useless at climbing and considered a swap

Good call on the tyres, a grippy front and fast rolling rear are a great combo around Cannock.

The bike isn’t useless at climbing, it will go up anything your legs can power it up.

a grippy front and fast rolling rear are a great combo around Cannock. most places

they’re not the best climbing bikes in the world, but they’re not the worst, and more than make up for it elsewhere.

Only change if you want* to change your bike, just don’t get sucked into the better/faster/stronger/stronger/stiffer/quicker marketing machine, it’s nearly always 90% rider, 10% bike.

*good enough reason as any!

Definitely not a bad bike for climbing…I’ve got a set of 160mm fox vans and can pretty much get up anything

Was the only one in our group to clear Honister Pass to the cattle grid whilst on a 35lb bike

It’s the rider, not the climber. Get yourself fit and that bike will ride anything

Will stick with it then I just thought a zesty 314 or a giant anthem x1
Would be easier on the climbs for keeping up lol
The talas shock on the front has no lockout what do I set this on for climbing.
Sorry im a newbie. Tho I believe my upgrade to the moarch plus rc3 was a good investment and I have put on some 2.2 tyres rather than the 2.5 tackys that were on it.
Any other ideas appreciated
Thankyou 🙂

When climbing just set the forks to their lowest travel, don’t worry about lockout you are riding off road.

An anthem will climb better but the enduro is better in almost every other respect.

Oh and remember what is easy to climb with is generally worse going down and the other way round. Let’s face it, going down is the fun bit so why remove the fun?

What have you done with the old shock?

Changing tyres will make a world of difference. These days, Spesh tyres are pretty good, so you’ll be able to find something that suits. As others have said, go grippy at the front and fast rolling at the back. The FSR is very plush anyway so you won’t have traction problems.

It’s a classic frame that still more than holds its own against more modern designs – I should know, I’ve just retired my 2004 frame!

Got kenda 2.2 tyres on front and back.
What set up do you think will work best?
Definately not worth selling and buying a 2011 stumpjumper carbon for 1500 that ive judt been offered then?
I know fitness is the key and building up my chicken legs lol

If by best set up you mean tyres then my preceded combo is Maxxis High Roller on the front and a Maxxis Larson TT on the back both in 2.35 and maxxpro for the compound. This pairing has been fantastic for me wherever I have used them from Cannock Chase to Snowdon.

If your a beginner then its really not worth dropping big money swapping frames etc around until your more experienced and you know what you enjoy riding and what parts are suited to that.

I’ve had a lot of enduro over the years
And my main bike this last 12 months has been a 2011 enduro evo

I’m Normaly first to the top of the climbs and can ride away from most oft friends
Simply because I ride more and am fitter than them

I’d keep it a while yet and concentrate on getting stronger and fitter

Unless cannock has got a lot more technical and found some hills a 150mm AM bike might be a little overkill for there. Where else do you ride?
Try some other bikes, do they do demo’s there? What do your mates ride?

You could transfer some of the bits to a HT and see how that goes instead. Will improve your speed and technical riding probably. After that just get fitter.

Was the only one in our group to clear Honister Pass to the cattle grid whilst on a 35lb bike

Swoons…… is that the one 1/4 of the way up? 😳

Hehe – yes, only a quarter of the way up but we were only doing the Bash. That part of the climb is the steepest apart from the very top anyway

I was just making it clear I didn’t ride ALL of the pass

There are no medals for lugging overweight bikes round the lakes 🙂 I would have a set by now if there were – the lower bit might be the steepest but the burn sets in near the top – better way to start the run in too….

Keep the Enduro and get a cheapo little hardtail for the XC stuff, then you have the best of both worlds. Riding a hardtail will also improve your riding skills and when you through your leg back over the Enduro it will feel even plusher!

After much research and playing about ive discovered im riding climbs on full trsvel 160
And worked out how to reduce this now so may make s nig diference 🙂