ETT = how long the bike feels when you’re sat down. Can be changed by moving the saddle a bit without affecting your pedalling too much.
Reach = how long the bike feels when you’re stood up. Can only be changed by modifying the cockpit setup, longer/shorter stem, lower rise bars, lower stack.
Now that’s all pretty simple. Now for the slightly more complex part.
Pay attention to stack, or headtube length. A short headtube may have you running many spacers to raise the bar. This shortens the reach the more spacers you add, and is exacerbated by slack headtube angles.
Generally, you should buy a bike based on the reach you need. Manufacturers have started to clock on this, as you’ll see most bikes are sold by size, not by seatube length. Then check you have enough seatube, then check the seatangle is enough so you don’t end up with your ass over the rear wheel.
All that said, until you sit on a bike, it’s just numbers on paper.