You mean over expose 0.7EV don’t you? That’s what you’d expect as the auto-exposure assumes all the white is a bright scene and exposes accordingly so everything comes out dull, unless you dial in some positive EV.

Changing the white balance to cloudy makes the snow ‘creamy’. A sunny white balance makes the snow blue.

Or you could just select ‘sport’ mode which does all those things (on my camera at least).

Or better, continue what you’re doing. Why do you consider learning to be a fail?

Umm.. I thought under but I might be wrong. I will check.

Or better, continue what you’re doing. Why do you consider learning to be a fail?

I used sport mode when I was starting out. It was easier, fewer things to concentrate on all at once.

Guess that makes me stupid eh? 🙂 (If sport mode does the same things as suggested, then it could be considered a shortcut to save button pressing, that is all)

Seems a weird old snow setting, I usually go for +1 EV when taking snow shots, under exposing would be less than helpful.

Easy way to remember is LADS, light=add and dark=subtract

Something to note RE shutter speeds.

As a general rule, around 1/125 can be handheld.

If you’re using a zoom lens keep it twice the focal length, i.e. if you’re zoomed all the way in using a 200mm lens, then the shutter speed should be around 1/400.

If you have vibration reduction on your lens then go 1.5x the focal length.

On most cameras you can increase the ISO setting to around 400 without adding too much noise, so only go higher if you really must.

If you’re not really interested in learning how to use and get the most out of your camera then just go for the preset auto modes.

As a general rule, around 1/125 can be handheld

I was told 1/60. I can hold 1/30 with a good stance.

With IS and a very good stance (sitting down) I can do 1/8 or 1/4 even with a long zoom. Unlikely to be useful in the real world tho 🙂

As a general rule, around 1/125 can be handheld.

I’d stick to the 1/focal length as a worst case (i.e. that’s more than enough) assuming you have image stabilisation. I’ll happily shoot at 1/10 with a short lens.

On most cameras you can increase the ISO setting to around 400 without adding too much noise, so only go higher if you really must

Not with most new cameras. I’ll shoot up to 1600 without thinking about noise.

(If sport mode does the same things as suggested, then it could be considered a shortcut to save button pressing, that is all)

Dunno if your ‘Limpy is the same, but on the Canon a key difference between selecting “Sport mode” and dialing in the settings yourself is that the Sport etc presets lock out all the other controls. Ie, if you wanted to select Sport but then wanted to lower the EV, you can’t.

I think if you choose ‘auto’ then it locks it all out; if you choose a ‘scene mode’ like snow, fireworks etc then it also does; but if you choose something off the main dial (which is sport, macro, portrait, night and something else I think) then you can still change them. Having said that exposure compensation might be one of the things that always works, not sure.

I started off using ‘auto’ but then I realised that it was insisting I used flash when it thought it wanted to, and I could not over-ride. So I switched to using P mode which meters for flash if you pop it up, but not if you don’t.

Yeah. Far as I can see, “P” equates to “auto without the controls all locked out.”

So that’s our camera modes covered. There must be something else camera-related we can talk about?

Is that some kind of ninja robot?

Yes, you put your camera on it then it stamps around taking photos and kicking ass.