• This topic has 15 replies, 14 voices, and was last updated 11 years ago by juan.
Viewing 16 posts - 1 through 16 (of 16 total)
  • Dropper seatpost query
  • fd3chris
    Free Member

    Hi guys , I am wanting to buy one and it has to be 27.2 to fit my HT then shim it up to 30 to fit my FS. I have read the gravity dropper is probably the one to go for for reliability , I might change the boot for a neoprene cover just for looks if possible . My big question is is it worth spending the extra on a remote version or do most people like to keep it simple with a non remote ? Thanks .

    davidtaylforth
    Free Member

    Dont even own one, but you obviously need a remote.

    I mean, if you’re not competent enoguh to be able to ride tricky terrain without lowering your saddle, then I doubt you are competent enough to be able to take your hand off the bars and pull a lever on your seat post.

    DaveyBoyWonder
    Free Member

    Own one with a lever and at first I thought it was ok but quckly came to realise you want a remote really…

    fd3chris
    Free Member

    Is it tricky to fit a remote to a GD after? It’s just crc are doing non remotes cheaply at the min ! And he advice is appreciated 🙂

    Northwind
    Full Member

    The Descender GD is just the GD turbo with no remote- so easy to add, but it ends up fairly expensive for the bits.

    juan
    Free Member

    I have a gravity dropper with a remote. When something goes wrong and it’s not that often you have exactly 9 parts inside. So not something very difficult to strip re-grease and rebuild.

    fotorat
    Free Member

    The handlebar remote option has it pros and cons, I have lever versions on my bikes as once used to it you can operate them in a fraction of a second just have to plan ahead when approaching steep rocks.

    If my bikes had the internal cabe routing for a dropper, I would go for remotes.

    I also run mine with 1cm drop from full height for full speed on the smooth, I find dropping the C of G a bit makes everything feel a bit safer

    JoeG
    Free Member

    I have a KS Lev with a remote lever. The trails that I ride are short up/down segments and there are a lot of log crossing and other obstacles. Thus I constantly raise and lower the saddle. if I had to do a crotch grab every time, I wouldn’t use it nearly as often.

    Unless your type of riding is a very long climb followed by a very long descent, then get the remote.

    kimbers
    Full Member

    its dead easy to convert the gravity dropper to remote version
    i rode with the non remote version for a while but its much better with the remote tbh

    and those crc ones are a bargain, id get it and upgrade at a later date if you feel the need – just check the price of the remote kit (was £60 posted from GD USA when i got it)

    emac65
    Free Member

    Or you could buy a TrailDrop seatpost off Big Massive with a remote for £60 less.Really simple design & the spares for it only cost a few quid

    vinnyeh
    Full Member

    Own one with a lever and at first I thought it was ok but quckly came to realise you want a remote really…

    I started with a lever Joplin, luckily it came with an unfitted remote. Without the remote I just didn’t get dropper posts- a big advantage of the post is being able to drop and raise it pretty much anytime it might be bit advantageous, not just on big climbs/descents.
    I found that a lot of the time I wanted to drop it when it wouldn’t have been clever to take one hand off the bars and fiddle about under the saddle.

    TurnerGuy
    Free Member

    if I had to do a crotch grab every time

    [video]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2ylWijMiA0o&feature=related[/video]

    scu98rkr
    Free Member

    I suggest a new tax band is introduced to pay for dropper seatposts for all who want. This way singletrack world will not be wall to wall dropper seatpost questions and we can all live happily.

    elaineanne
    Free Member

    ive just recently bought the ‘pure racing KSi7’ seatpost..just lever option.. only rode it a couple of times and quickly got used to it…obviously button option is mostly desirable with all you ‘button people’…. but when you have 27.2 seatpost size you cant have the Reverb 😥
    anyways lever option is purely something i will have to get used to for me…no big deal it works in seconds and you get used to where the lever is, its not like ya looking down all the time fumbling around …ya just get used to it. 😉
    so far so good :mrgreen:
    there is actualy a button option that goes with this seatpost but you have to purchase that at a seperate price and the bike shop said ya dont need that anyway…

    cookeaa
    Full Member

    My Hilo is 27.2…

    I opted for the basic non-remote version, while it is cheap and better than having no dropper at all I would always recommend having a bar remote Now if you can, for seat height tweaks at the last second or when riding a new trail blind it makes so much more sense than the panicky crotch grab manoeuvre…

    As for which brand to go for, alot of people swear by Gravity dropper based on its mechanical simplicity and servicability, you can’t really argue with that, I’ve not had any problems with mine, but I know a trail side fix if it did would be harder and it is based on the Maverick speedball/CB Joplin which is pretty renounded as one of the least reliable of the lot… As sexy as the reverb is I’m not sure its without its issues either…

    Ultimately all your weight will either be applied to an index plunger (GD) or a valve and some hydraulic fluid (Most of the rest), there has to be a weak point somewhere in that load path, nothing is without any risk of failure…
    It really comes down to what you feel comfortable trusting…

    juan
    Free Member

    As sexy as the reverb is I’m not sure its without its issues either…

    From what I can see around, it’s quite unreliable.

    Ultimately all your weight will either be applied to an index plunger (GD) or a valve and some hydraulic fluid (Most of the rest), there has to be a weak point somewhere in that load path, nothing is without any risk of failure…

    Yes but then if the STEEL GD plunger is put the right way round, there is no problem at all with it.

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