Viewing 16 posts - 1 through 16 (of 16 total)
  • Dropper posts and workstands…
  • iainc
    Full Member

    so how many of us diligently unbolt our droppers and pull them out the seat-tube enough to clamp conventionally ? I only do this occasionally, if I’m doing a job that needs leverage, like changing a bottom bracket. Most often I clamp lightly on the downtube (Soul) just above the bottle bolts. Stand is a Park PCS10.

    I do wonder though….

    scotroutes
    Full Member

    I just clamp on the top tube.

    SirHC
    Full Member

    Clean cloth wrapped round the dropper shaft, then into the workstand. If its bottom bracket removal, lower the workstand so the wheels are on the floor.

    Northwind
    Full Member

    I slide the seatpost up (well, on one bike, there’s enough seatpost anyway). But that’s just because if I clamp it by the toptube it messes with cable tension and it’s pretty awkward to clamp it by the downtube.

    The solution to bottom bracket changes seems to be to not do it in a workstand? I’ve always done it wheels down

    iainc
    Full Member

    ^^^^ I dont use toptube for same reason, downtube is easy and I think that if its not clamped mental tight it should be fine.

    Yeah, BB wasn’t a good example, because I tend to ‘crack it off’ with the bike out the stand, on the floor, then put in stand

    Scapegoat
    Full Member

    Diligently undo the seatclamp and clamp on the proper part of the dropper, just in case I need to exert enough leverage on things like BBs and don’t fancy either a dented top tube (Soul) or a sloppy sprained Reverb……. I also take the wheels off if appropriate to reduce leverage on the seatpost thus minimising potential flaring of the seat tube. Yes, it takes perhaps 40 seconds longer, but also gives me a chance to renew the carbon assembly paste and make sure the seatclamp torque is just right afterwards.

    Jeffus
    Free Member

    Always slacken seat clamp and move post up, only take a few seconds, why damage the shaft you would not clamp your fork stantions 😯

    iainc
    Full Member

    why damage the shaft

    erm, I don’t clamp the shaft.. 🙂

    Scapegoat
    Full Member

    No, but Sir HC does.

    SirHC
    Full Member

    Having a stealth reverb means moving the post up is a faff and top tube isn’t round, so makes clamping difficult. No scratches or marks and have been doing it a year.

    Onzadog
    Free Member

    Compress dropper, undo seat qr, raise post, close seat qr. Clamp the lower section of the dropper.

    rOcKeTdOg
    Full Member

    Remove dropper, replace with original post & clamp that

    Northwind
    Full Member

    Sir HC – Member

    Having a stealth reverb means moving the post up is a faff

    Not mine

    andyl
    Free Member

    I clamp mine around the top collar of the dropper and what is showing of the body of the post below the collar and above the seat clamp.

    JoeG
    Free Member

    I use a Thule rack adapter

    trail_rat
    Free Member

    I Just clamp the seat tube.

Viewing 16 posts - 1 through 16 (of 16 total)

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