Viewing 15 posts - 41 through 55 (of 55 total)
  • Drop bars on my mtb…?
  • lunge
    Full Member

    If you had a full set of gears/brakes hangin off the road bars and did a straight swap I couldn’t see if being a real faff (albeit an expensive exercise). If you had to start refitting cables to mechs/brakes etc. then that would probably push me over my threshold of annoyance and I’d be on eBay buying a new frame to fit onto instead!

    This. It’s still a royal pain in the arse but this could work. I’ll hazard a guess that swapping cables, bleeding hoses and other such things would happen once before being decided it was a stupid idea.

    molgrips
    Free Member

    No hoses need to be bled!

    I’d remove the calipers along with the hoses…

    billytinkle
    Free Member

    At thenorthwind – SJS Cycles sell those bar ends. Made by Origin8.

    IanMunro
    Free Member

    What’s the point of the drops at all? Well they are nice for long distances, and I’m wondering if drops would be nice for really long distance – slightly more aero could make it slightly more efficient.

    Are you sure they’re nice for long distances? I sure as hell wouldn’t do a long distance on drops out of choice. Unless it’s one of those setups where the bottom of the drops appear higher than the normal top of bar position, in which case you haven’t got drops, but flats, with an extra high bit in the middle.

    How about narrow flats, or swept back flats with set of clip ons. Less hassle, more aero, more comfortable.

    Drop free mtb.

    http://www.cyclingweekly.co.uk/news/andy-wilkinsons-dolan-time-trial-bike-29431

    Sanny
    Free Member

    molgrips

    Just ignore the naysayers. What’s the point? Fun. Pure and simple. I run flared Woodchippers with 10 speed 105s and also run Ultegra 10 speed on another bike. They are flared but work fine. You would need to run cable road discs. I can heartily recommend TRP Spyres as my first choice but BB7s are still a good choice. On one bike, I run an old XTR bottom pull and on the other a Shimano CX front mech on a double. If you need to raise your stem but the steerer is too short, BBB do a really nice internal extender that I have used with a fair degree of success on a steel fork.

    Just do it. You may just like it! 😀

    molgrips
    Free Member

    Are you sure they’re nice for long distances?

    Nope. But it might be fun to try 🙂

    OCB
    Free Member

    From experience (most of my bikes are kinda like this):

    #1. Bar-end shifters for the drops? You can run (most of) them in friction mode (if you want / need to, and they really will shift pretty much anything like that). They aren’t especially attractive set-up on bar-cons, but you could do that too on your flat-bar set-up which might (!) save you having to fanny about with swapping gear cables at all when you switch bars. My choice is the Dura-Ace 9sp SL7700’s (on friction).

    #2. Maybe … install cable-operated calipers anyway, they’d work fine (with the right levers) on flat or drop bars. BB7MTN need V-brake levers, the BB7Road will operate off normal road levers. I dunno the Tekro versions, but the Cane Creek Drop V levers are a nice match for BB7MTN.

    #3 Moustache bars might be a decent half-way – I’ve recently stuck a set of Mungo’s on my Peregrine and it feels great (so much so, I’ve done the same thing to/with my Fratello).

    #4. Bontrager do a 17° stem in a range of lengths, you might find you’ll need a bit more rise than you’d think to get comfortable.

    #5. Salsa’s new Cow-chipper ‘bar looks like an interesting ‘bar – Midge’s are always a solid choice for this kinda thing.

    scotroutes
    Full Member

    Are you sure they’re nice for long distances?[/quote]Absolutely. I’ve done long rides with both “normal” drops and Woodchippers and could recommend either.

    Jay Petervary rode his El mariachi with flats, bar ends and TT bars.

    cookeaa
    Full Member

    But you make a good point about the front mech.. hmm..

    Maybe take the front mech and shifter out of the equation. Use a down/top/seat tube or steerer mounted friction shifter that can just stay with the bike, how much front shifting will you really be doing?

    Rear can be 10 speed STI for drops and trigger for flats with appropriate mech, hydraulic discs for flats, cable BB7 or cx77 discs, I assume you have IS mounts front and back so the adaptors live with the callipers meaning you shouldn’t have to re-adjust them each time…

    Yep it can be done… I like the idea.

    cookeaa
    Full Member

    Better yet something like this old suntour shifter:

    Could be transferred between bars without needing cable adjustment as it’s a band on type fit…

    stumpy_m4
    Free Member

    Whats the salsa on page one , looks interesting ?

    scotroutes
    Full Member
    docstar
    Free Member

    Frankenbike has midge bars on it, perfect for head down-arse up riding!

    stumpy_m4
    Free Member

    scotroutes – Member
    Fargo
    http://salsacycles.com/bikes/fargo

    thanks just found it

    IanMunro
    Free Member

    Not too shabby for a mountain bike..
    [video]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Tix9iF3reSE[/video]

Viewing 15 posts - 41 through 55 (of 55 total)

The topic ‘Drop bars on my mtb…?’ is closed to new replies.