Ok, So heres the low down. Got a plumber to fit a new bathroom suite, underfloor heating , tiled floor and walls etc. I didnt like the basin ( wrong shape) so I have to fit a new one tomorow.
Went to B and Q and bought a 35mm tile drill bit , to be able to drill through the tiles, then drill a 20mm hole in the wall the to take the biggest rawl plug known to man , and a sink mounting bolt / stud combo / thing.

Really don’t want to crack the new tiles . Any helpful tips or advice would be most welcome. I have a small drill, pipe cutter, solvent weld and some 40mm waste pipe. Have a vague recolection of making an X shape with selotape , then drilling through that . The tungsten carbide tile drill bit looks impressive in as much as you could destroy lots of tiles with it.

Ta Muchley

Selotape or duct tape to stop the drill skidding.
Start off with a small drill.
Make sure the hammer function is turned off.

And put the drill on slow, if you run it fast the heat glazes the tile as you go which then blunts your drill and is harder to drill.

Sellotape and pilot hole worked for me.

Pilot hole is the key. I would have thought electrician’s tape would be the best to stop skidding.

You can get some really strong wall ties now too. I have some that take 100kg per plug using a 10mm drill!

you can also get a dedicated bit to drill the pilot hole with, it grinds rather than cuts

I seem to remember tapping with a punch to make a start in the glaze. Glently though. 🙂

using the dedicated bits is by far the easiest way to get a good result

What your using is a core bit.. so you dont need a pilot.. the best way is to use the 35mm core bit to drill a bit of hardboard out(6mm plus), then hold the hardboard over where you drilling , and this will hold the core bit in place.best on the flat so you can add water. but on the vertical use a wet sponge to keep a stream of water over the cutter to keep it cool. and probs Drill slower than usual.. If the tiles are softer, cooling wont be needed. 😉

Thanks , will give it a go tomorrow morning.

Leebaxter is spot on. no need for the hardboard bit if you start the drill at an angle and gradually straighten it up.

Hammer action on the drill unless it’ll never get through the tiles backing. Piece of wee wee.

Try this http://www.thesitebox.com/Category/4183/tile-drills.aspx

They also do core drills.

fabric sticking plaster works well to stop the bit skiding around

do NOT use hammer action to drill tiles, they will (nearly always) break.

If the material behind the tile is hard, wait until the bit is through the tile before you turn the hammer action on.