Was going to do this with the cups in the frame for simplicity but now thinking better to do it on the bench just in case something gets damaged. Thoughts??? Also can anyone link me to some uber replacement bearings (Not ceramic? How much 8O)

It would be tricky to get the right angles in situ unless your pulling them out.

Vice, rag, drift. hammer. Bosh

1 big socket on the ground/bench, big enough for the bearing to fall into, cup upside down on top of that, one small one through from the inside, bash with hammer.

Press them in with a vice and a well fitting socket resting only on the outside race through.

Any decent bearing from your local bearing/engineering shop will do, SKF, FAG, INA, etc.

Aren’t HT11 a deliberatly not-available-from-your-local-bearing-shop size, though?

eBay.

After spending most of the weekend pulling and attempting to press new bearings back in to my Anthem – get the right tools for the job it will save a lot of wasted time.

http://www.ukbikestore.co.uk/product/38/httpro2/hope-pro-2-hub-tool-kit-complete.html

Any reason you can’t mill out the cup to take hope bearings? Not tried this but is there a reason not to try?

There’s probably no reason you couldn’t but complete XTR HT11 BB’s are often cheaper from Germany than a set of replacement Hope bearings.

hardly worth cocking about with IMO. 13 quid for a HT11 BB? life’s too short.

I’ve got a Saint BB which was 34 quid just seems a waste to throw it away when bearings are about a fiver and a ten minute job to replace.

I’d check you can get the bearings at all, let alone for a fiver, joolsburger

why bother? – when you can buy a Gusset ext24, which uses sealed bearings, hidden behind a labyrinth, for £24.

It’s to do with not being keen on the disposable culture and liking a bit of fettling but sod it I’m convinced, I’ll get a new one.

I guess at least with HT2 you don’t throw the axle away every time the bearings go but if you want longevity then square taper is probably the way to go.

my experience as follows…remove cups from frame and then remove top hats and seals

small screwdriver from behind and a hammer to push out on the inner bearing races

once they start to move a little, put a bigger screwdriver in and hammer again

they come out pretty easily really

I got replacement bearings from a guy called adapter man on ebay…19 quid for enduro stainless steel bearings… the cranks run directly on the bearings so no need for top hats. Grease the inside of the cups, lay the bearing flat on the workbench and tap the cups on with a hammer. Then use the old bearing and a vice to seat the bearing properly in the cup. Enduro bearings then come with an external seal to seat on the crank as an additional barrier (I greased the outer bearing seal before putting the extra seal on)

if you just use normal 6805 bearings (3 or 4 quid for 2 on ebay) then if you file or sand the bottom 1mm off the HT2 top hats you can use em, or go to Superstar and get two top hats there for a few quid