I am attempting to attach a 5 x 3 headboard to the bedroom wall. Ive drilled through the plasterboard to fix a mounting bracket, but there is metal behind a very small (20mm) cavity, preventing me using the fixing i was intending on. The house is an end of terrace mid 90’s and research suggests the cavity wall arrangement is not of the conventional type.

So – would the plasterboard itself be strong enough itself to take the weight of the headboard which weighs probably 15kg? Was thinking of using something like these to attach two brackets – http://www.screwfix.com/p/spit-driva-tp12-panhead-metal-35mm-pack-of-100/11923

Or do i need to use a stronger/more secure fixing by drilling into the metal behind (which i am reluctant to do as i dont know what is, etc)?

Any advice appreciated.

In my experience, if you can spread the fixings widely and your not cantilevering something well off the wall, then plasterboard will support quite a lot of weight.
Will the headboard brain you if it does fall off or will it just drop behind the bed?

I’d try and work out what the metal is first.. could it be a metal conduit that’s shielding electrical cables? Not got a socket in line below perhaps?

There are plenty of dry lining systems that use metal brackets to mount the PB on.. either screw fixed into the structure of fixed with plaster dabs, would think it’s less likely though on a newish building (I usually use them for refurb of old uneven walls). If you actually have a solid wall behind that small cavity, then a longer screw with a decent masonry wall plug would work fine. You won’t burst through as you’re spreading that tension force over the whole headboard area.

In the end though, those fixings will probably work, a headboard with a large area like that will have a low “pull out” potential as the force should only really be a shear force along the wall face.

Regards

Jeff

Will the headboard brain you if it does fall off or will it just drop behind the bed?

It will land of top of the bed, hence why i am been cautious in fitting it!

I’d try and work out what the metal is first.. could it be a metal conduit that’s shielding electrical cables? Not got a socket in line below perhaps?

Thats the thing – not sure if the metal is protecting something, but sockets are either end of the wall probably 2ft away from the existing drilled holes. Research suggests it could be metal frame that the PB mounts on to but i cant be sure…

I just dont want the whole thing to come tumbling down in the night, and also dont want to make a right mess of the wall by putting in fixings which arent suitable.

The 20 mm cavity could easily be the dab depth especially if they’ve had rough arse Brickies chucking the walls up. How can you tell it is metal after the cavity? A simple way to tell if its dot and dab is to use you knuckles and tap on the wall. You will hear the “hollows” where there is no dab.
As above the metal could easily be capping for a capping but not sure how you’d ascertain it was metal from a 5-7 mm drill hole?

If its metal stud there will be no gap between board and metal.

As above the metal could easily be capping for a capping but not sure how you’d ascertain it was metal from a 5-7 mm drill hole?

Have drilled a 10mm hole for the brackets – and fairly certain it is metal by touch and shining a torch in there, its not wood or brick.

Capping for a capping 😆
I meant cabling as I’m sure you knew.
Have you tried the tap tap technique?

Not tried tapping but have borrowed a digital cable detector which was hit and miss, further adding to the confusion.

As before if its dot and dab the hollows are very easy to sound out over the dabs. If this is the case then you can almost certainly say that that metal is capping. If the whole wall sounds hollow then it will be a metal stud.
What’s in the loft? Boiler, is there lighting up there? I’d be firing up there and having a look directly above where you are drilling. Will certainly give you a clue re construction and there may just be a cable popping out onto the ceiling joist.

As far as I know no electrics in the loft but can easily check.

It all depends on the strength of the person you are tying to the headboard.

hébergeur image gratuit
These are used for fixings into plasterboard as you can see the different
sizes have weight ratings depending on what you need to be held up.
The tool in bottom right of picture is essential to make them work properly and i have even squeezed one so you can see how they work ,
The one you have highlighted from screw fix will hold a bit of weight but not much .
These are holding my kitchen wall units up so a bed head will be no problem.

The proper way to fix a heavy object to a plasterboard wall is to remove the plasterboard where the item needs to go and provide a base which is properly fixed and will support the item. When in place plaster board back over the top and repair.
Fix item to wall with appropriate fixings.
Had to do this for a massive tv.

^^^ Not true !
Countless fixings available now. Such as the ones I sourced for my steel fabricator to fix a handrail to a jumbo stud wall. However none of the above is helping the op.

Spit Driva Plus should do the job, drop me your address and I’ll bob a few out in the post if you want to try them. Email in profile.

Is the wall the end wall of the terrace or the party wall with next door?

wrightyson – Member
^^^ Not true !
Countless fixings available now. Such as the ones I sourced for my steel fabricator to fix a handrail to a jumbo stud wall. However none of the above is helping the op.

Note to self. Don’t use a handrail fitted by this chap.
Why do you think that in all new construction where stud walls are used, they place plywood backing behind any area where a fixture or fitting which will bear load is placed?
Yes there are countless fixings available for plasterboard. ALL have limited load bearing capacity. Simply because of the material being anchored to. Not the strength of the bolt or screw itself.

Rockhopper – The wall is the end wall of the terrace…

chunky monkey – thank you for your kind offer, will email you.

Gears suck, you know more than me then, you win the Internet. Ill just keep my 20 odd yrs of construction experience and do one. And whilst I’m at it ill let you rip holes in any wall where you see fit rather than use modern fixings you old pro 😉

NW did you check the wall again? Tappety tap?

Can you put a pic of the headboard on here

Wouldn’t use those fixings that 66deg recommends but need a pic of the headboard to advise

wrightyson – have tapped the wall and there dies appear to be hollows and dead sounding areas all over the wall….

grantway..will upload pics shortly

crappy phone pics here – http://www.flickr.com/photos/60703429@N04/

It is just a padded board which you attach the mounting bracket to, as well as the wall.

So we can probably ascertain its d and dab and the metal isn’t the back edge of metal stud and therefore is likely to be capping. Does the fixing need to go there or can it be moved say 30-40mm either way?

the fitting can move either way I guess – will investigate that option. I would rather if i can secure the fixing into the brick behind than rely on the plaster board keeping it up.

Just noticed your link on the original post. We supply the TP12 to Screwfix, the Driva Plus is a new fixing that has double anchorage in the shape of a small ‘plate’ that screws back on itself and pulls the fixing in tight. Did all the testing at Head Office last year, then put my new 46″ TV on a plasterboard wall which weighs in at over 18kg including the bracket with no problem at all.

Have you not drilled a hole to look and see whats behind ?
If narrow depth to the brick material then you can use longer screws and raw plugs in the walls
a No 10 size screw be best.

If you cannot fix or move the headboard to miss the metal behind the wall if its electrical cable
or you may find it being metal studding. If so use self tapping screws into it or Long dry wall screws.

If the worst then I would cut a piece of MDF 18mm thick would be ok and cut it 25mm short all round and
use grip fill and adhere it to the wall and paint the edges of MDF the same as the wall.
And screw the headboard to that.

you know more than me then, you win the Internet. Ill just keep my 20 odd yrs of construction experience and do one.

Sounds like a plan. I didn’t realise it was a competition. But try to put a happy face on while you leave.. 🙂
And remember. There are plenty of people out there with 20 years or more of crap workmanship under their belt. Experience means nothing. Apparently!
Of corse any fixing in plasterboard is only as good as the fixing of the plasterboard to whatever it’s on. There was a bloke on here just the other day who’d had foil backed plasterboard dabbed onto his walls. So assuming that would be a good fix would be a bit daft now wouldn’t it number two?
For everyone who fixed their 42″ telly directly to the plasterboard and got away with it there’s someone else who’s heard an expensive crash during the wee hours.
Anyway, I’m off to polish my trophy.

[bangs head against a stud wall in best commercial development in midlands]
Workmanship seems ok.
🙄

FYI
Toggler

Sigh….. patressing drawings ……ZZZZZ

Do I win the trophy? 28years opps 29years experience (I feel old)

Ha ha. You’re a card eh wrightyson. I haven’t dismissed your suggestion as incorrect as you did mine. I was merely trying to help the OP with my version of many solutions.
I didn’t realize we were in a competition.
Anyhow, OP you could consider marking your fixing points making holes at those points and injecting some bond or resin type filler adhesive. After that is set, you will have a solid and well supported point where you can drill and fit proper anchors without the worry that the board might break or collapse around the anchor point.
And waits for girlie response from manly builder!