• This topic has 30 replies, 16 voices, and was last updated 11 years ago by br.
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  • DIY woodworker/Joiner types..
  • elzorillo
    Free Member

    Need to build a couple of wooden gates. They will be painted. Is this green treated softwood from the builders merchants acceptable or do I really need to buy hardwood??

    br
    Free Member

    Properly sealed you’ll get 10 years out of the softwood, or use C16 which will last longer.

    Shorty121
    Free Member

    Get hardwood as they last longer as now they removed arsenic in the treatment which makes it crap

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    alpin
    Free Member

    no need for hardwood, but it will last longer. but if you are painting why bother with a nice hardwood?

    and why painted? you do realise that you’ll just have to keep on painting them evrey few years. if you do paint it them treated will be fine.

    if you do want hardwood then go to a reclamation yard and see if they have anything suitable. you might get lucky and find the gear you are looking for.

    fongsaiyuk
    Free Member

    for long lasting with minimal maintainance go for cedar if you can afford – again not if you are going to paint

    project
    Free Member

    Tanalised timber the green stuff and treat /coiat with cuprinol oil based preservative

    thepurist
    Full Member

    Don’t paint – use a decent high build opaque stain instead. Less faff with blistering, peeling and all that rubbish that comes with paint.

    And (IMO) forget cuprinol too – you need an end grain treatment like Ensele for any bits you cut, the rest will already have been pressure treated with a tested preservative so why bother adding something else already. Cuprinol’s fine for non-treated wood but it’s a bit belt, braces & kitchen sink for treated timber. Also make sure you avoid surfaces that can collect standing water eg. any horizontal elements have a slight fall away from the gate on the top surface.

    elzorillo
    Free Member

    Thanks for the replies. 🙂

    Shorty121
    Free Member

    I work in the agricultural fencing business and have big trouble with treated timber as the treatment only goes a couple mm into the timber

    spchantler
    Free Member

    just because its called hardwood, it doesn’t mean its durable, balsa wood is classed as a hardwood. i’ve had so called mahogany thats physically softer than pine, and have replaced mahogany windows that where less than 10 years and had turned to mush. modern life is rubbish

    elzorillo
    Free Member

    So I’m none the wiser hehehe

    project
    Free Member

    USE SOFT WOOD WHICH IS UsUALLY A WHITE COLOUR AND TREAT WITH PRESERVATIVE TO WHAT EVER COLOUR YOU WANT , USE AN OilBASED PRESERVATIVE, NOT A WATER BASED EMULSION ONE

    Sorry for capitals, just cant be bothered typin the above out again

    TheBrick
    Free Member

    metal

    elzorillo
    Free Member

    Another quick question for any joiner on the forum… Gates are progressing well but I need to cut a large peice of wood with a curve. The wood is 75mm thick (way too thick for my feable bandsaw. I need to put a curve into it similar to the top of this gate..

    So it’s too thick for either my bandsaw or my jigsaw.. Considered having a go with the chainsaw then spending the next decade sanding it down but considered that idea stupid.. Any suggestions please????

    kayak23
    Full Member

    Yes, draw the shape you want on it, walk into a joinery shop with a tenner and smile.

    elzorillo
    Free Member

    Yes, draw the shape you want on it, walk into a joinery shop with a tenner and smile.

    I shall try that sir 😉

    elzorillo
    Free Member

    Gates now complete (used a chainsaw for the curv then tidied up with plane/sander) Not ideal I admit, but it worked. All framework joints are doweled and glued, then screwed for extra diy enthusiasm/piece of mind.

    Pic here for anyone interested of first one complete.. LINK

    Anyway… Unfortunately they weight an absolute ton !! way more than I anticipated.

    Wooden posts will be bolted/screwed to corner of house. What bolts screws should I use??

    Any suggestions please??

    Stoner
    Free Member

    nice bit of work that.
    concrete bolts and maybe some resin?

    elzorillo
    Free Member

    Thanks for that.. Never seen them before. Do they really work?

    Have this terrible vision of ripping the corner off the house 🙁

    slackalice
    Free Member

    Nice job!

    Resin wall-anchors will be fine. About 5 of ’em should do it.

    tonyplym
    Free Member

    Most expansion bolts and “screw in” style masonry anchors don’t work well near to corners – you’ll risk the wall material (brick or concrete) cracking and failing. Try to spread the load into the wall as evenly and as far away from the corner as possible – several chemfix/resin type anchors would be my choice. Gates look really good – what wood did you end up using ?

    kayak23
    Full Member

    That looks very nice considering the tool used! 🙂

    elzorillo
    Free Member

    what wood did you end up using ?

    I Just used that treated green stuff as I’m planning on painting them anyway.

    AlexSimon
    Full Member

    Very nice handiwork there. Well done!
    What was the technique for the chainsaw bit?
    Also – what wood +1?

    elzorillo
    Free Member

    Very nice handiwork there. Well done!
    What was the technique for the chainsaw bit?
    Also – what wood +1?

    According to the merchant site it was ‘High pressure Tanalith E treaded Scandinavian softwood’.

    The chainsaw was used to roughly cut the top curved bar as it was too thick for the bandsaw. LINK

    elzorillo
    Free Member

    Sorry to ask another question but I’ve never seen this polyester resin/anchor bolt before.

    So if I get some of these the correct length BOLTS

    and some of this RESIN

    Do I simply drill the holes, fill with resin and immediatelly screw into it then leave to set?

    slackalice
    Free Member

    I’ve used a number of different systems, these would work well for your application.

    meehaja
    Free Member

    when you said you’d used your chainsaw for the curve, I assumed you were an idiot like me and stubboness would mean you’d have rubbish looking gates forever more. But no, you’ve done a tidy job there, well done.

    Bolt wise, I used metal expanding bolts into brick to hang my punchbag with and it never so much as wobbled, a few of these on each gate post would I’m sure do the trick. Or, my gates are held up by large railway sleepers as gateposts, buried at least foot into concrete, though one of these has now been disturbed by tree roots so it sits at an angle, which is annoying!

    slackalice
    Free Member

    PS. remember to adhere to the guidelines regarding cleaning out dust from the holes you drill, otherwise the resin will bond to that rather than the brick substrate.

    teasel
    Free Member

    Superb chainsaw wielding…!

    br
    Free Member

    Next time use a router to get the curve, 5mm at a time if you’ve only a little one.

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