We all know that the easy answer is stick something in and then replace it when it stops working well. However, I’ve a few options in my spares bin right now and I’m wondering what to try next. I’m not going to be using a full cable run. I don’t like them. I know plenty out there do, each to their own. I’m wondering on the best way to get the best life out of exposed sections.

I’ve got a set of gore cables that have been very disappointing. I’ll not be using those again. No where near as good as the first generation kits.

Now, I’ve got full XTR cable set which I could throw on with the tongue and boot seals for the exposed toptube and seatstay sections. However, I read an interesting article a while back about popping the seal and guide out of the end caps and covering the exposed sections with tubing and heat shrinking all the joins. Seems like a bit of fun tinkering.

However, the next stage of that thought is that maybe I should just pull the gore inners out and replace. After all, it’s one long tube which his what I’d be creating with the heat shrink. If I do that, should I use the XTR inners dry or a shimano stainless with a little M-Prep?

Wish I was well enough to ride the bike instead of distracting myself with this sort of thing.

may i hubbly make a suggestion, buy a set of XTR cables, fit them and go for a ride. Don’t bother wasting riding time faffing. for the time spent trying to solve problems that don’t really exist you can get a ride in.

When the shift goes crap again buy a new set of cables and repeat. Don’t worry about adding seals, AKA drag, don’t worry about full length outers, AKA drag and crap shifting.

Accept that cables are a disposable item and that they will wear, when they wear replace as a whole, don’t buy new inners, don’t try and bodge some miracle cure, just buy a set of reasonable cables and move on.

You mention not being able to ride, have a look at your jockey wheels, are they worn, it makes a big difference changing them, how is the chain and cassette looking? bit worn then change them. If you need to fiddle, strip the bearings and give them a good coating of grease, strip the cassette and remove the black crap that accumulates, get the autoglym out and get the bike to showroom condition.

Just don’t waste time fiddling with things that don’t really need it, like cables.

Thanks for the thought. The rest of the bike is mint. The drive is gleaming. Bearings are smooth, shocks are services. Cables are all that’s left. I’ve got xtr waiting to go on. I’m even pondering about changing the cable routing under the seat mast gusset just for something to do.

Or just use any cables and have a cable oiler. That way they last years without replacing

I’ve thought about that but it’s the whole clean/dry/sealed vs open and oily debate.

Still not sure which way to lean on that. I like the idea of cable oilers but it’s more breaks for water ingress. Is it best to just flush with gt85, like chain lube or a light plastic compatible grease like m-prep (which seems similar to the stuff in sp41 housing).

I’ve got a set of gore cables that have been very disappointing. I’ll not be using those again. No where near as good as the first generation kits.

+1

Sent the last lot back as they were rubbish

Now run std Shimano outers and inner but well lubed with this stuff:

and they are super slick.
http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Models.aspx?ModelID=2607

+1 TJ

Full outers is the way to go for offroad riding. I have used Sram 1:1 with full outers for 4 years. I have replaced the inner cable annually and cleaned and lubed every 3 months. Don’t persevere with a flawed system, just go all out for what works.

i personally would not use any lube beyond the little that is there from the factory, it only attracts crap and causes problems later.

deveron53, do you know why segmented cables were introduced? Bowden cables stretch and flex so by reducing the amount of outer present you get better performance, SIS needs more TLC than friction. The correct way forward is Nokon and similar where there is an incompressible outer and to use as little outer as possible. Outer means friction which in its self causes issues.

As for oiling and changing inners, i wouldn’t bother, i just buy a brand new set of cables once a year and be done with it. no lube, no faff, It works, and has done for 20 years.