Currently running my roadrat with an Avid BB7 on the front and a V-brake on the back. Wondering about sticking full discs on it but wondering if it's a PITA adjusting the wheel and getting the wheel out with a disc on the back.

Any owners who can advise? Already running SKS full mudguards – is that a complicating factor?

Never had a problem. I run SKS guards and just loosen (not remove) back 2 bolts next to guard and pull back to remove wheel. Running BB7s.

I got rid of my RR mainly because it was an utter PITA to get the back wheel out with mudguards and a rack on. There's no way I'd fit a disc to it. It's not necessary anway, vees are plenty good enough. 🙂

it was an utter PITA to get the back wheel out with mudguards and a rack on.

I must have good skillzzz 8)

Don't have mudguards but mono minis front and back with no probs.

Running singlespeed too. Even pulling wheel back to tension chain causes no probs.

MM

I bought mine 2nd hand and it came with disc wheels and SKS mudguards. I run it SS, but agree that it will take a bit of work to get the back wheel out (for whatever reason). Oh, and you need to ride with a small spanner (or KoolTool) to get the back wheel off if you have a puncture.

Any road bike with horizontal dropouts will have the same issues – I guess the RR maybe exacerbates them by also letting you run discs (as well as a rack and full-size mudguards). I guess a better design would be to place the caliper forward of the axle, so getting the wheel off would be possible without having to release the caliper mounting bolts? Dunno!

Getting the rear wheel in and out of a roadrat is a total PITA, gears make it worse but discs aren't really a problem IME.

I've got disks front and back on mine, complicated by it having an Alfine as well and a rack. Still no problem removing the rear wheel though.

Steve – do you not have to undo any of the bolts around the brakes to take the wheel out?

Nope.

I think my discs are probably too large then, as I just popped on a spare set of Juicys that I had lying in the garage – I'm guessing the 180 disc means the caliper is slightly further around, if that makes sense?

I run a alfine 160mm rotor on shimano deore mechanical discs, sks guards and a pannier rack have no need to remove any brake caliper bolts or remove the caliper either although I undo the mounting bolts for the mudguards.

160 rotors on mine and full SKS, mudguard is set back a touch, wheel pops out easy esp if its got no air in the tyre…