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Diesel estate car mileage – Scared at 150k?
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cjr61Full Member
Sorry, I know this sort of post has been done to death.
Anyway, growing family means I want to size up from my VW Golf so looking at a diesel estate car. I do 25k a year so needs to be efficient runner.
Assuming cambelt is done at appropriate interval how long are diesel estates running for now? Should I be put off by mileage of 150k plus? Or is that old thinking and actually they’ll go for a lot longer. Passat/A6/Octavia….any other STW preferred?
It’s a rookie question but STW advice (and flaming) always welcome.
And, if anyone wants to swap their diesel estate for a VW Gold 2.0TDI Bluemotion then let me know!
Cheers
Chris
cardoFull MemberOlder pre DPF diesels, if looked after can do massive mileage.
Not to say the newer / later euro 5&6 cars won’t do big 200K + mileage but there is more consumable bits to replace eventually.
My old 97 A4 had 268K on the clock when I sold it and was running really sweet.. I do run my oil burners on the posh stuff though.matt_outandaboutFull MemberOur Mk3 2006 Galaxy is at 140k. I’ve just had timing belt done at last service. I do 20-25k a year too.
Certainly things wear out – bearings, brakes, clutches etc. I see these as running costs though. We own the car outright, bought it for £8k @70k miles, so £1-1500+ a year running costs are low, especially in light of depreciation.
It can get pricey – but not as costly as a new car, certainly when you run a bus like us. Be tuned it to things not sounding or feeling ‘right’, have a good garage you trust, be prepared for a few ‘foibles’ you put up with (iffy reversing sensor and occasional central locking hiccup here).trail_ratFree Memberi probably would think twice at buying unknown with that milage
if id taken the car to that milage without major incident id crack on with it till it died of rot or tried to nickle and dime me to death.
thisisnotaspoonFree MemberDepends on the car?
I just ticked over 100,000 in mine and still on the original brake pads and it doesn’t burn a drop of oil between annual services. Had it’s first MOT failure for worn front suspension bushes last month, not bad for a ten year old car currently doing ~20,000 year.
Only minor glitches are a broken interior air vent, the seats are water stained from MTBing and there’s an electrical fault that lights up the battery warning light intermittently. Battery’s fine though and a miltimeter and OBD2 reader both show the right voltages when running/starting/driving.
I’m more inclined (like trail rat) to buy a low mileage mile car and run it until it dies. Over 100,000 you’re potentially buying someone else’s ‘too expensive to fix’. OTOH you might get lucky, there’s (mostly) noting wrong with my OH’s fiesta , but she still want’s to sell it (1.4 petrol, 120,000 miles). I just keep pointing out that even if it does need a big item every month (clutch, cambelt, waterpump, whatever), that’s still cheaper than the repayments on a 3yr loan, so better off thinking the other way around and some month’s it’s a free car!
trail_ratFree MemberDepends on your ability as well.
Some folks too expensive to fix(at a garage) is my bargain barge.
Gary_MFree MemberI just ticked over 100,000 in mine and still on the original brake pads
100k out of a set of brake pads?
I bought a honda accord tourer new in 2005, still got it and using it daily and it must be around 170k now, I don’t really look as I get it serviced every 6 months not on mileage.
Last time it was in for it’s MOT mechanic had major issues trying to replace some suspension component, couldn’t get the bolts undone and couldn’t get any heat at them due to the power steering rack being in the way.
It’s going in for a service at the end of the month but if he can’t fix it this time it will fail its MOT come December.
Car still looks good with only one minor rust bubble on the rear arch. Still pulls like a train.
Still wouldn’t buy a car with 150k on the clock though 🙂
DelFull Memberif you’ve a second car at hand and can put up with the occasional rescue call out fine, if it’s cheap enough, but it had better be cheap enough to throw away.
cjr61Full MemberThanks all. I think what’s coming through is if you don’t know what history it’s really had then be prepared for problems!
Think I’ll start looking for a lower mileage and then spend a little more.
Ps I have no experience with fixing cars either…just like big bikes…with more wheels eh?
SundayjumperFull MemberIt would have to be bangernomics for me to buy something with 150k on it. Certainly not big money. Cheap enough that simply scrapping it wouldn’t hurt too much.
My current BMW is on 193k miles, still runs great, but is looking a bit shabby. I’m planning on running it to 200k and then treating myself to something nicer.
stevextcFree MemberI bought a honda accord tourer new in 2005, still got it and using it daily and it must be around 170k now, I don’t really look as I get it serviced every 6 months not on mileage.
We had a used 2005 one .. did 270k then suspension was in need of non-economic replacement. Had the turbo stripped and cleaned about 150k…. and two clutches and DMF’s….
I think carrying best part of a ton of flooring over speed bumps hastened the demise… and still never took a drop of oil between 12.5k services.
Gary_MFree MemberHad the turbo stripped and cleaned about 150k…. and two clutches and DMF’s…
mmm not had any of that done yet. Although I do have an issue with losing power under hard acceleration which I think (hope) is the fuel filter.
thisisnotaspoonFree Member100k out of a set of brake pads?
Which implies I drive like a nun, but in reality I just don’t brake for corners 😆
swedishmattFree MemberMy diesel injectors on a Hyundai Santa Fe 2010 model gave up the ghost at 118 000 miles. It actually probably started going wrong at 100 000 but I didn’t quite have it figured out (rough running at certain RPM).
Standard Bosch injectors afaik. Guess they’re similar to many other models. I am no expert.
sheldonstarkeyFree MemberMy previous Volvo V50 2.0D had 216,000 miles on it when I px’d it. Still running sweet and started first time – every time! Didn’t burn oil and the biggest expense (apart from tyres, brakes etc) was the alternator and battery – £350 at my local garage.
Go for full service history and give the vehicle a good thrash now and again.
Current V50 D5 has 104,000 on and no issues. Polestar upgrade and goes well ?
stumpy01Full MemberMy previous Ibiza had 24k miles on it when I got rid (130 1.9 PD engine).
Bought it at 3 years old (03 plate) with 24k miles on it and got rid at 274k miles in early 2016.
I only got rid because we needed a bigger car once the sprog arrived.When I got rid it was still on it’s original clutch & DM flywheel, turbo, injectors, exhaust.
Only major expense was the air con compressor, aside from routine stuff.
It blew off a couple of turbo pipes in it’s life, but they were fairly cheap repairs.Not sure I’d consider buying a car at 150k miles though unless it had complete service history and I wasn’t planning on putting mega miles on it myself….
stevextcFree Membermmm not had any of that done yet. Although I do have an issue with losing power under hard acceleration which I think (hope) is the fuel filter.
Turbo was just gunky…. the valve was sticking. Took it to an indy who said “no promises” but he stripped it, cleaned and rebuilt and we got another 100k ish out of it…
Clutch/DMF was at least on one occasion the OH learning to drive … bit of a pain to change (compared to my RWD) but the parts are cheap so DMF wasn’t completely shot but it didn’t make sense to change the clutch and not the DMF. (It was about an extra £40 or £50…. most of the cost is labour pulling off the old clutch so by that time it just made sense)
jefflFull MemberChecking the MOT history of my old diesel accord (2006) these were the advisories from it’s latest MOT in June this year. This is on 170k miles. I sold it at 120k miles about 18 months ago.
Advisory notice item(s)
both rear brake discs corroded
Nearside Rear Lower Anti-roll bar linkage ball joint dust cover damaged, but preventing the ingress of dirt droplink (2.4.G.2)
Power steering pipe(s) or hose(s) slightly corroded front (2.3.2)
Windscreen has damage to an area less than a 40mm circle outside zone ‘A’ (8.3.1d)
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