Loads out there on google but has anyone got a webiste with the definitive guide.

Particularly looking for recommendations on rim tape, tube type, latex type and tyre type as I don’t want to waste time experimenting when other people have done the work.

Cheers.

I used a Schwalbe 20″ BMX tube, Wheel milk from Just Riding Along and a NEW maxxis Minion tyre.

My top tip would be to use barely watered down car shampoo to clean out the cut tube and to help get tyre onto the rim (i didn’t need any levers to get tyre on).

Got the bead seated with just a track pump, had to push tyre down over the valve hole to hlp get more air in though.

It has worked a treat and still holding pressure fine after 3 weeks or so.

Allan Kellys guide has gone missing, this is one I found to show a pal yesterday, do your own search for part2

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WRM7gq1fcoQ

I was trying to put a link up for Allen Kellys website as it was his instructions a followed to the letter.

Had it listed in my favorites but site appears to have vanished!

This is the definitive guide, contrary to popular belief you don’t need to spend money on rimstrips and valves, just some sealant and you can even save money on that.
tyre/rim combintion is important so do some research on that first, I have had perfect results with stans and rolf dolomtes and various continentals. I have never need to use soapy water with these tyre rim combunations either.
If your tyre is a tight fit on your rim you may be able to just use a track pump, but a proper compressor makes it easy(at least 10 cfm and 2.5 hp with a 25 litre tank or greater, the one they often sell at aldi is great and comes with loads of other interesting air tools 8) )

8) 8) 8)

Not so cheap if you dont have any of the neccesary parts lying around!

£12 for a couple of tubes and a bottle of latex is hardly expensive. I used a new tyre because the current one was very worn out so replacement was needed anyway.

🙄 🙄

I’m just glad i didn’t go out and buy a Stans or Joes kit. Seeing how easy ghetto is why on earth bother with any proper kit?

£50 or £12(or less!), a no-brainer really.

Here’s my blog. No issues at all so far, very impressed.

It is a no brainer 😀 . IMO it is more satisfying using old valves and tape and buying as little as possible and achieivng the same results.
Its kinda like P7 lights, only those who have them know how good they are but there are still people willing to spend £250 for the same result.
I just dont get it 😕

I was successful last year fitting a High Roller using the Allan Kelly method. The HR is now worn out so spent last night replacing it (with a Maxxis Ignitor fwiw).

Getting the thing apart is a bit mucky so if you are a serial tyre swapper that may be an issue. Cleaned the worst of the gunk off the ghetto rim strip (Schwalbe 20″ presta) and then went to refit that. Just left it soapy after having cleaned the gunk rather than make a special soap solution.

As usual, couldn’t get it to seat using a track pump so resorted to the tried and tested CO2 canister, which whacked it up first go. Alarming popping noises as the bead seats, but no issues. (www.tyreinflators.co.uk for cheap CO2 btw)

Deflate – add Joe’s, refit the presta inner and repump with a track pump now the beads are seated. Rotate and wiggle to coat the insides and this am the tyre has leaked a bit but nothing that a small top-up and ride won’t fix (as last year, i found that full sealing of the tyre walls took a couple of weeks to happen 100% – although i do think the tyre this time round is a bit less flimsy / more impermeable which might answer that point)

Job done start to finish in 45 mins and this time round didn’t even need a tube to ghetto, which was the fiddly bit first time, cleaning it out and trimming the edges when done. Total cost – 90mls of milk and a CO2.

Do it.

LBS only has dahon(?) Schwalbe bmx inner tubes- these are too narrow for 321 Mavics etc?

you dont need them 🙄

Allan Kelly guide has moved here:
Allan Kelly’s guide to ghetto heaven

Used schwalbe, JRA milk and Bonty Mud X. Did them back in November/December and not had ANY issues.

hora ive just ghetto’d a set of 321 rims with 20 inch schwalbe bmx tubes mate worked a treat 😉

Any body use continental innertubes, do they have the right valves?

Or even cheaper Tesco innertubes??

Sealent, does any old art latex work, I heard something about stans having fibres to make it seal better… Would like to use maxxis advantage 2.25 tyres if I can find them cheap enough anywhere. Otherwise Conti Gravity 2.3.

Looks good though think I will have a dable and start getting the bits together.

Righty – You have to accept that not everyone can be arsed with tape etc when a tube does the job just fine. Most people are happy with not having had to buy a Stans type kit.

Also, I for one don’t have packing tape, electrical tape or old tubes/valves lying around the house.

Good for you for saving money – you must be easily pleased 😀

I like the fact that schwalbes BMX tubes have removeable valve cores too. Makes adding extra sealant that little bit easier.

🙄 nickegg I’m just encouraging others to try it, however you are welcome to stick with your method, but you can only speak for yourself 🙄
Removeable valve cores are also uneceesary in my experience, just unseat 4 inches of tyre from the rim and put your sealant in replace bead and reinflate- cant be easier.

I’ve not tried righty’s method so can’t comment from experience (no change there for stw then!)

but –

one issue I have heard with UST tyres is ‘burping’, where the bead unseats v. slightly round a corner for example and leaks a bit of air. On a UST, which is supposed to have a hook type of bead holding it in. I’d be more worried trying to do ‘UST’ on non-UST rims and tyres which don’t have such a positive bead seat.

What’s different to ghetto rimstrips, I hear you ask?

Because although you might still unseat the bead slightly, from having taken one apart last night I learned that you have to pull quite hard to detach the rim strip from the tyre where it has been glued together with the latex. In effect, it was almost like a tub tyre except in 2 halves. So even if the bead ‘burped’ slightly the airtightness is pretty well uncompromised and unless you’re on very low pressures or baggy beaded I’d predict the bead would reseat under the internal pressure.

Pure conjecture, and something I hadn’t thought of until I came to dissemble last night, but it really was pretty well sealed.

I wasn’t aware i was speaking on behalf of anyone else.