So, new cable time. Have run full length outers for years, but new frame is not geared (geared, geddit?) up for it.

So, how best to prevent getting crud in my new cables?

Gore Ride-Ons get good reviews, are totally sealed, but are pricey and the installation seem to be a bit of a faff.

Shimano cable tongue things would be simpler to install, easier and cheaper (obviously I’d have to buy outer and cable as well), but would they be as effective as the Gores?

Its for a SRAM mech BTW, if that makes any difference

XTR used to work nice, but as you allready know the benefit of full length drill the cable stops out and go full length again, pop a middleburn oiler into the line and never worry again for years.

XTR ones every time for me

Either drill out the stops or zip tie full length outers on.

The only time I deviate from those is where the frame has no outer at all, just a stop on the headtube and a stop at the rear mech so the only place mud gets in is that last 8″ of outer. Then I just buy a few meters of SP41 and replace it once in a while.

Having run a set of old Gore ride-ons on my commuter which ran smoothly for over 5 years I replaced them eventually with the newer version, they lasted less than 6 months. Very poorly sealed and inferior quality to what they used to be like.
Xtr with cable oilers now.
Squirt of Gt85 once a week keeps it running smooth.

Using full length outers sorted out my gear shifting problems that I always used to get after about a month with “normal” cables. I just use the same cable guide for it as for the rear brake hose.

XTR – used to last me a year before getting gritty.

Gore – were about 3 years

Cheap full cable runs – 3 years plus

If you can bare to do it drilling out the cable stops and running full outers is best and cheapest. But Gore’s a pretty good if expensive alternative.

Also cheack out Transfil Mudlovers which are like the Gore’s in that they run a liner but without the fancy coatings – so much cheaper.

http://www.ribblecycles.co.uk/sp/road-track-bike/Mudlovers-Gear-Cable-Set/TRASCABG150000000000?utm_campaign=Googlebase&utm_medium=organic&utm_source=Googlebase

Full length SP41 with XTR tongued ends, seal the outer to the end cap with a little liquid electrical tape. And cable tie to frame (shudders at thought of trying to make a neat job of drilling out existing cable guides) 🙂 Just over 1000 miles now through all sorts of sh!t and still as smooth as a very smooth thing, with no intervention of any sort.

I used to really rate the gore cables. Even moved them from bike to bike. However, the last set delaminated in under a year. I now use xtr which last longer and recently added a set of middleburn cable oilers.

So, the ideal seems to be full-length outer with XTR ends. Don’t want to zip-tie the cables on though (I think it looks a bit tatty) and I’m not sure I’m brave enough to drill out the stops on my newly powdercoated frame.

I should have done them before it was coated, shouldn’t I…

Yes. And how does full lengh with tongues work? You won’t get them at the shifters or rear mech. Maybe one at the front mech but how often are they the problem?

Also consider jagwire ripcord semi-sealed kits for £22

http://jagwireusa.com/index.php/products/v_instructions/Ripcord_Derailleur_Kits

http://www.wiggle.co.uk/jagwire-ripcord-mtb-gear-cable-kit/

Where the frame has stops, you get a shimano like noodle and then a line of thin outer that covers the cable until the next noodle. It also includes booties for lower down. I think they’re excellent.

+1 for jagwire

Use the XTR/XT sealed ferrules with tongues and boots as they have a brass end-plate and a rubber o-ring seal. Cut off the noses and forget the boots for the rear mech. Use tongue and boot on the front mech at the seat-tube, assuming top-pull. If it is a bottom-pull arrangement you are plainly out of luck to run a sealed full-length outer and doomed.

SP41 is available in 10m lengths from Parkers, in a variety of clashing colours.

PaulD

Full length with tongues works fine Onzadog, at both mechs anyway. Use the plastic tongued end, it’ll fit straight through the rear mech housing, then I just shortened the rubber boot slightly to get enough clearance/travel for the (XT Shadow) mech.

Paul, if you’re bottom-pull, Winstanleys sell a clamp on cable doofer so you could convert to top pull & run continuous if desired.

http://www.winstanleysbikes.co.uk/product/17654/Problem_Solvers_Backstop_Cable_Stop_Clamp

HTH

I’m intending on giving these a go next time I replace my cables, not wanting to give advice on something I’ve never used but apparently very good and only £3!

Started to use those xtr booty things and so far they seem to be doing a job. As chives said, had to cut down the rear mech boot a tad.

Gore ride-on here… easy to fit.. don’t know what all the fuss is about… last for years and silky smooth 🙂

Only slight problem they don’t fit my s-works due to have small cables runs and cables are a fat 5mm… don’t fancy drilling out near to a carbon frame ;-/

Shimano cables, cablemagic lube, full length, with these to hold the outer.

http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Models.aspx?ModelID=28123

Job done. Gore used to be good but the last lot I had were rubbish after a month.

Shimano also do black ones;