Viewing 20 posts - 41 through 60 (of 60 total)
  • Dark side – gear ratio question
  • GrahamS
    Full Member

    Actually hadn’t noticed the OP was a girl until you mentioned it crikey.

    Newer road rear mechs now take a 30T cassette, which opens up the options for a compact.

    Or 32t as I mentioned above.

    pdw
    Free Member

    34 / 36 is very low by road bike standards, and should get you up just about anything.

    People get very animated about the triple vs double vs compact question, but with modern shifters it really doesn’t make much difference.

    For example, a compact set up to have a similar range to a traditional triple will have bigger jumps between gears, but with 10 speed is it really a problem? 10 speed 11-36 will probably give you similar jumps to 7 speed 11-24, which people used to survive perfectly well with not so long ago.

    Similarly, I’ve never found the large jump between 50/34 a big deal in the days of STI shifters. Just give the right hand lever 2 or 3 clicks as you swap chainrings and you’re back where you started.

    I regularly ride:

    53/39 12-25 10 speed
    53/39 12-28 7 speed
    50/34 11-28 10 speed

    and I can honestly say that in day-to-day riding, I barely notice the difference between any of them.

    njee20
    Free Member

    As for the others discussing matching mountain bike and road gears. In terms of Shimano, cable pull does play a part when you start putting 10 speed mountain bike deraillieur on – the pull is different. If you get a 9speed then it all works fine.

    Front mechs changed a few years ago too, if you have Shimano STIs with the hidden cables (5700, 6700, 7900, 9000) you need a matching front mech. Older ones with exposed gear cables can be swapped with MTB front mechs.

    Rear mechs are fine, you need a 9 speed MTB rear mech irrespective of whether it’s a 9/10 speed road transmission. Dunno about 11 speed yet.

    ransos
    Free Member

    Similarly, I’ve never found the large jump between 50/34 a big deal in the days of STI shifters. Just give the right hand lever 2 or 3 clicks as you swap chainrings and you’re back where you started.

    I don’t like it. My winter bike has a triple, and the 42T middle with 12-25 cassette is just perfect for cruising along, with the granny and big ring for steep climbs and pushing on. By contrast, I need to do more front changes on my compact, because neither ring size is quite right.

    Or 32t as I mentioned above.

    Most road mechs don’t take a 32T cassette.

    tinribz
    Free Member

    Ride ur mtb in the middle ring, that’s what its going to be like with a compact, maybe worse with bigger wheels. Recommend asking the shop to fit a triple up front. If it’s flat barred you may as well get a deore mtb and matching thumb shifter and front shifter. If it’s drop bar go for a Stronglight Impact Triple, just fitted one of these to my tourer and its a joy to be able to ride up anything in the Dales without breaking a sweat.

    You’ll need to budget for the LBS to do this before you pick up the bike, about £100, but it will be worth it for the versatility.

    GrahamS
    Full Member

    > Or 32t as I mentioned above.

    Most road mechs don’t take a 32T cassette.

    Yes, except the 32t compatible SRAM WiFLi mech, as I mentioned above 😆

    trail_rat
    Free Member

    Does that rear mech work with shimano shifters…. If not its irrelivent when lookingat the bike the op suggested

    njee20
    Free Member

    Ride ur mtb in the middle ring, that’s what its going to be like with a compact, maybe worse with bigger wheels.

    That doesn’t really stack up though, the bike’s lighter, rolls better, more aero etc, there’s more to it than just comparing like for like gearing. Weird choice of chainset too, not what I’d go for, and I’d not suggest the OP goes straight in for doing that on the new bike.

    GrahamS
    Full Member

    Does that rear mech work with shimano shifters…. If not its irrelivent when lookingat the bike the op suggested

    No and entirely true trail_rat, but the bike the OP mentions apparently comes with 48/34 x 11-36t which I believe is a much bigger range than my compact anyway, and most of the triples mentioned here!

    So really most of the discussion is irrelevant.

    Not sure that has ever stopped us in the past.

    ransos
    Free Member

    Yes, except the 32t compatible SRAM WiFLi mech, as I mentioned above

    Information which is unlikely to be of use to the OP…

    Kryton57
    Full Member

    titusrider – Member
    Ps everyone is nervous about drop bars when they first use them but they are easy to get used to after a while feeling wobbly! Worth it for the extra hand positions and ability to get out of the wind

    Does anyone else find they keep punching themselves in the stomach with their kneecaps?

    scotroutes
    Full Member

    There’s either something way wrong with your setup or you need a new diet

    GrahamS
    Full Member

    Does anyone else find they keep punching themselves in the stomach with their kneecaps?

    At a guess I’d say saddle too low or belly too big.

    traildog
    Free Member

    Does anyone else find they keep punching themselves in the stomach with their kneecaps?

    Yes, but only after I read all this about ratios and wifi enabled mechs. Argh.

    Kryton57
    Full Member

    ^^^ its the belly. Setup is 109.5% 😉

    antigee
    Full Member

    Newer road rear mechs now take a 30T cassette, which opens up the options for a compact

    think the new sram red 11 speed with hydraulics will take a 34 so with a compact i’ll be looking at that rather than a triple on my next “drop bar hybrid”

    munrobiker
    Free Member

    OP- you will be fine. The thinner tyres and lighter weight of the Sirrus (why not a Vita by the way if you’re a girl?) will mean that 34/36 will feel nice and low. If you’re worried about it then maybe look at a bike with a triple like the Giant Escape RX-

    http://www.giant-bicycles.com/en-gb/bikes/model/2013.giant.escape.rx.1.w/11868/56911/

    The Escapes are a lovely bike and tend to be better value than the Specialized equivalent.

    But I’d not worry about it- if that’s the bike you want then those gears will get you up most things happily. Ignore most of the infighting about triples/compacts above- they really do the same job and it’s not something to base the purchase of a whole bike upon.

    Dales_rider
    Free Member

    Kryton57 – Member

    Does anyone else find they keep punching themselves in the stomach with their kneecaps?

    Nope it rests on the thighs throughout a revolution and a slow cadence sets up a nice ripple effect

    tinribz
    Free Member

    Weird choice of chainset too

    Not really, is fairly standard MTB gearing like you’ll find on a lot of tourers, 29ers (and used to on most hybrids), only works with STIs.

    This is a more unusual alternative, Velo-Orange Grand Cru Cranks 46/30

    yanni
    Free Member

    Orange_c – not sure if its of any assistance but Im thinking of selling my 2012 Spec Sirrus comp shortly as Im looking for a full on drop handled road bike. The bike is nearly 12 mths old and is immaculate in every sense (frame, forks, wheels, gears etc). Drop me a message if you are interested – email address in profile.

Viewing 20 posts - 41 through 60 (of 60 total)

The topic ‘Dark side – gear ratio question’ is closed to new replies.