As a layman i am more confused than when i started reading this thread….might just go rigid

1 set sag to approx 25%
2 ride
2.1 too much dive? more LSC (blue dial)
2.2 big hits coming straight through (spiking)? reduce floodgate
2.3 kickback after bumps? more rebound
2.4 fork not recovering quickly enough? less rebound
3 goto 2

As a layman i am more confused than when i started reading this thread….might just go rigid

I just got back from the pub, and thought it would be useful to do a recap:

1. There are at least 2 different remotes, one that adjusts compression, one that doesn't. Probably anyone that brought their Revelations from the cheap Merlin deal has a normal lockout lever without compression adjustment.
2. Due to (1), mostly everything else can be ignored, unless you want to faff around with zip ties to adjust compression.
3. retro83 posted a link to something by someone named kapusta, who explains motion control adjustment in easy to understand steps for normal people.
4. Ignore everything after retro83s link and you won't go far wrong… 😉

got mine sorted now…….lockout locksout…….. 8)

Good tuning summary retro83.

Of course, as others have said, if you use a remote lever that only allows 2 positions for slow speed compression, then point 2.1 is superfluous.

Oh, one more – getting compression spikes but too much bob/dive or not enough 'lockout' (since floodgate is wound right off): change for a lighter oil and use more floodgate.

2.1 too much dive? more LSC (blue dial)

Probably anyone that brought their Revelations from the cheap Merlin deal has a normal lockout lever without compression adjustment.

Of course, as others have said, if you use a remote lever that only allows 2 positions for slow speed compression, then point 2.1 is superfluous.

So if one has the on/off lever, what adjustment would you use to make up for the lack of compression adjustment? Or just not worry about it?

So if one has the on/off lever, what adjustment would you use to make up for the lack of compression adjustment? Or just not worry about it?

You could hard wire the compression by tightening the wire at the blue pulley.

Or you could do something with zip ties (I wonder if you can make the bar lever adjustable with a zip tie loop or something?).

Or someone else will say that you can put more/less air in and change the rebound. Then someone else will say you shouldn't do that. Then someone will get called a facist.

If you reckon that adjustable compression will make loads of difference to you then you'll be wanting to buy the correct lever, or change the assembly for a fork mounted compression adjuster.

Not worry about it.

If your fork is set up properly you don't need more compression damping. All the lockout does is stop the fork from working.

Well, you can run it 'on/locked out' and wind the floodgate off a fair bit.

That way you get a bit more low speed compression damping to control bob/dive and an active fork over bigger hits.

However, that means that a) you don't have anything that works as a lockout, and b) you might be a bit low on compression damping generally, depending on your weight/how you ride etc. (which would show up as blowing through travel easily, although probably not bottoming on air revs/rebas since then have a very progressive spring towards the end of their travel).

ducking all the handbags for a second and answering any questions posed at myself-

Merlin pushloc revs, Im 15st. They do blow through the travel, they do need a bit more compression damping without resorting to fully on with floodgate as is the option with these forks. Tried 15psi less negative, its a bit better, might reduce it further until it stops moving on small stuff.

cruff:
ducking all the handbags for a second and answering any questions posed at myself-

Merlin pushloc revs, Im 15st.

*dodges gucci manbag*

Cheers for that. Hopefully at a slightly portly 12stone i should be ok then.