Ok so I’m at it again fettling…

Is this possible and will I die/get a bad back.

I’ve got a Cotic Soda that for a reason with a tiny crack I can’t run a dropper post in it. With a double clamp seat post clamp from a bmx though it is fine but has to be done up too tight for a dropper post.

You can’t weld the crack otherwise you can’t get a seat clamp over the frame.

I am fancying a gravel bike at the minute and wandered..

Could I stick a set of rigids and some 700c disc wheels on it with some drop bars and make a cx/gravel type bike?

It’s not the longest of frames

Anyone done this type of thing and how was the geometry? It’s a really nice frame and I’d rather get some use out of it (I tend to avoid it due to lack of dropper).

Hi,

I still bet it is going to be too long for drop bar duties.

I’m 5’10.5″ and like rather long frames.

ETT of my flagship full suss is 615mm, ETT of my drop bar do-it-all bike is 575. Full suss got 50mm stem, drop bar 70mm. And that is rather unconventional.
According to all CX/roadie calculators I should be on 555-560mm ETT with 90-100mm stem. Tried it, didn’t liked it.

But that’s me.

Hope that helps.

Cheers!
I.

By the time you’ve bought all the parts, you may as well have just bought the correct bike for the job.

This calls for Monster Cross!

Assuming you don’t really mean CX, but rather some sort of gravel/adventure bike, why do you particularly want drop bars?

There are lots of other bar shapes that will give you some variation without having to change levers etc

Mountain Cross?

I’m just in the process of changing my mtb to drops, with a bit of measuring I think it will work with a 60mm 35deg stem. Not putting skinny tyres on though as I already have a cx.

Just trying to find some 25.4 midge bars

By the time you’ve bought all the parts, you may as well have just bought the correct bike for the job.

Maybe, however it’s a very nice titanium framed bike. If I can do it for say £250 buying used parts then I wouldnt get amywjere near as nice bike for that cash.

I did this- and although I had to get a shorter stem, the bike rides well and is not too long for me. Original stem was 70mm and the new ‘drop bar’ one is 50mm. TRP spyres, a short reach road bar, and road rear mech. Everything else was exactly as the MTB was.

I have the whole flat bar set-up I can bolt back on with no fuss in about half hour.

I’m sure someone who rides on the road all the time might not like it, but seems to work fine for me.

Yes, look up monstercross

http://www.bikeradar.com/blog/article/monstercross-bikes-the-ultimate-all-rounder-29507/

I was planning to to do the same with an old M-Trax rigid MTB as I preferred the anatomical/ergonomic benefits of drops for the type of riding I do most of. Did the sums and plumped for a ready-built. If my old bike had the capacity for Disc brakes I may have persisted in the conversion process but all said and done Im glad I made the jump.

I have the whole flat bar set-up I can bolt back on with no fuss in about half hour.

Interrupter cables or re-cabling?

With cable stops and outlets like this frame, if you release the tension a little you can remove the entire assembly without removing cables at either end. That could be a real timesaver – unbolt bar and mech, remove fully cabled and mount similar fully cabled kit and tweak indexing.

If I can do it for say £250 buying used parts then I wouldnt get amywjere near as nice bike for that cash.

You won’t have a nice bike for two hundred and fifty quid though. You’ll have a cracked MTB frame fitted out with cheapo road parts.

It’s the sort of project you’d undertake if you had half the bits lying around in the shed already.

@malvern rider
The road mech has an adjuster on it, so no need for inline adjusters. it’s a full set of cables on both set-ups. Literally unbolt stem/disks/rear mech and swap. Only the front mech cable needs to be undone at the derailleur bolt (cable stays on the drops) just as @vinceup has suggested.

Short, shallow drops make a big difference.
Much shorter than traditional drops, so you can fit a longer stem.

FSA short reach bars on my tourer – 90mm stem.
The longer, deeper stock bar only needs a 50/60mm stem to get the same position.

I reckon you could easily build a nice gravelish bike for the budget. The key item will be the stem, you can get cheapish high rise jobs but if you want something nice then have a Google for LD’s. I sure someone recently was knocking some out, maybe even a UK builder. Shifting will be the next issue. Either go bar end or try to get some brifters.

I’d consider leaving the wheels as is and just fit appropriate tyres or rather than 700c go 650b. Should keep a nicer bb height.