I have an old bomb shelter in my garden, that the previous owner hacked away at to fit a window. I’d like to block up the old entrance on the left, as it’s too narrow going round the corner to get a bike in, and open up the window opening down to the floor to get a good solid door fitted – plan is to use it as bike storage. Once I brick up the old entrance, I’ll probably render the front too.
You can see how thick the walls are at the left of the current opening, will I be able to cut through that with a standard hired slab cutter?
Can’t you get the bike in by popping it onto the back wheel with the bike vertical and then rolling it in the door and then reversing back into the room ?
Although that gives you a security issue so probably best to do as you propose.
Can’t you get the bike in by popping it onto the back wheel with the bike vertical and then rolling it in the door and then reversing back into the room ?
No, it’s too tight even to get the road bike in, never mind the MTB’s!
Yep. Big diamond disk Will do that fine. You’ll need to go from both sides and it won’t go all the way through but enough to let you finish it off with a sledge hammer. Noisy and dusty job. An alternative is to stitch drill it then sledge hammer. Not as neat an edge but not too bad. Is it original ww2? Seems a shame but I suppose better than knocking down.
The brickwork is one and a half brich thick laid English bond. Every course you cut through will involve cutting along the length of the headers ( the bricks which are laid so you only see the short end) This wont leave much of the brick once you make the cut, many of the old bricks won’t survive intact and you’ll need to patch it up to form a neat jamb for the new door.
I’d be knocking out the individual bricks and then patching up the edges rather than cutting it.
As above use a diamond disc but use water on the disc. Most disc saws will have a water connection on them. The blade will cut more efficiently and you won’t get the dust.
What if I was to cut along the edge of the headers PP?
There are headers and stretchers ( the longways ones) in every course alternating i.e
bottom course – Headers on the inside and stretchers on the outside
next course – Headers on the outside and stretchers on the inside.
If the joint between headers on either side of the wall is aligned in each alternate course then that’s where you’d want to make the cut. It’s more likely that the joints on each side will be offset from each other .
Given the small area. I’d still be doing it with a hammer and bolster or a hand held breaker ( a big SDS drill with a chisel would be ideal) and taking out whole bricks rather than cutting it.
A bricklayer will be along in a minute to tell you i’m talking shite.
PP – What about cutting maybe 8 inches too wide, then using concrete block to re-make the faces at either side?.
It’s irrelevant where you make the cut – the issue is that you’re cutting thin slices through the long dimension of old (guessing WW2?) bricks, a proportion of which are likely to break / crumble.
If you remove whole bricks then make up the fair face of the opening with accurate cuts from new bricks, this won’t be a problem.
SOG – Yes, there is a damp issue at present, mainly due to the part of the garden behind being 3′ higher, and no proper ventilation in there at present.