OK – so I will definitely measure twice+ and cut once. But for an Aluminium steerer will I do best with a decent hacksaw or a pipecutter (I have both but don’t want to **** this up).

I just use a hacksaw – and an old stem as a guide.

Hacksaw and a piece of paper taped around as a guide for me

A pipe cutter will leave a ridge around the cut area which will be a pain in the arse to fit the headset top cap o-ring around, as scotroutes says ^ or a couple of jubilee clips as a straight cutting guide if you’re not too familiar with a hacksaw.

A real hacksaw with a fresh blade fitted the right way round and not a junior hacksaw would be my choice. Carefully measured and taped, simply cos a round of tape is easier to be accurate with than marking a line with pen or pencil.

Hacksaw and a old stem as a guide.

Hacksaw, newish blade. I don’t bother with a guide- if you get it that wrong with a steerer diameter of only up to 1.5″ then it’s best you stepped away from the hacksaw 🙂

I’m another hacksaw and old stem man

Best £18 you will spend. So useful.

Hacksaw and a bit of electrical tape as a guide. If you think you might not cut straight, turn the fork regularly so that you’re cutting from all sides. It will take a bit longer and need a tidy up with a file but you will get a square cut.

there is no need for a physical guide if you learn how to usea hacksaw correctly.

But a bit of paper wrapped round is a good plan becauseits hard to follow a line tha keeps disapearing underneat.

It’s like a starnut setting tool. Less than £20. You can lend it to mates. You are unlikely to fubar a £400+ set of forks. But yes, you can do it without a guide and stand back in amazeballs that you have saved £18.

Used a pipe cutter on all ours with no problems afterwards. Did my replacement Pikes last week, also have a star nut fitting tool which takes seconds to use.

Superstar one

Saves another £3 😉

My dad taught me to use a hacksaw properly many years ago and I can do it freehand but, for the money, why risk it?

‘sides it allows me to feed my tool fetish 😈 😈 😈

I bought a guide that looks just like the one above but made by XTools. I’ve never been taught or bothered to learn how to use a hack saw so it was £15 well spent.

there is no need for a physical guide if you learn how to usea hacksaw correctly.

But a bit of paper wrapped round is a good plan becauseits hard to follow a line tha keeps disapearing underneat.

😆

Tape and a good sharp hacksaw, you’ll be fine.

Jubilee clip as a guide is a good option

I go around the tube using a steel rule and hacksaw to make a very light mark at the right distance, then go round again joining the dots, so to speak. Then a file (on steel/alu) or a sanding block (on carbon) to tidy up.

I really need to get a star nut tool, those are a PITA.

Done four sets with my trusty Stanley pipe cutter.
You get a slight ridge around the top off the cut which I take of with a diamond file otherwise headset, spacers and stem can be awkward to fit.
If using a hope hed doctor it pays to clean up the inside of the steerer at the cut, if using a star nut not so much of an issue.

Also have a star nut setter as well, not essential but works brilliantly and gets the job done in seconds.

Cutting guide as mentioned above.

Pipe cutter and a file for me…..

Hacksaw, tape around the steerertube, jubilee clip’s (one either side of the place you want to cut) draw a line on the tape on the steerer, set up the clips either side of the line, hacksaw through.

Use anything less than a normal hacksaw and the blade will just wobble and cut through the jubilee clips leaving a trace that looks like a snake has just gone over a sand dune…. 😆

Hacksaw for me 2.99 special from b and q. Put a stem on then a sacrificial spacer (it might get damaged) and use that as a guide. Small file to neaten up any rough bits afterwards.

It isn’t that hard provided you get the length right. First one is nervy but I’ve done a fair few now and it is just cutting some metal.

As Wally said, right tool for the right job!

To be frank I have seen a far few steers come through the workshop that are not straight/level and it looks GASH, also the are the main reason headset come lose as it bottoms out on the headset cap on one point, or spacer not seating on the steer correctly, and have to put a bigger (more ugly) spacer on it, more so if they mess about with stack/bar height etc

I do mine with a pipe cutter – just find it easier but use the guide for carbons.

+1 for star setter

-1 for race setter – finally got one to make life easy then put a hope headset on an they got a clever split

+100 for the superstar third hand – just fab.

Pipe cutter for me but tempted by that Superstar tool for the job, as others said the slight ridge files off in seconds with a metal file and to honest the one steerer I did with a hacksaw needed filing afterwards also so no big hassle.

I use Nukeproof headsets which come with a split crown race and can be pushed on by hand, no crown race setting tool required.

Star nut is a doddle to set with a screwdriver….insert stem of screwdriver through star nut, place star nut onto/over steerer with the metal length of screwdriver pointing into steerer, hit handle end of screwdriver with hammer/rubber mallet etc, star nut will gently move into and then down the steerer, keep hitting until at desired depth….the flat surface of the bottom of the screwdriver handle ensures the nut goes in flat and doesn’t end up sat skewed in the steerer.

+ 1 for pipe cutter. Never had a problem with ridges or ‘owt. Very square cut, takes no time. Hope headsets use a split race which is dead easy to fit on the crown.