You don’t need to remove it, just slide it back towards the body of the tool.
Depends which version you have. The current version does require the 8mm tip to be removed.
I agree with you completely about looking after the tool (same as for any tools for that matter). If one of my multi-tools had completely rusted up, I would be asking myself what I was doing wrong first before blaming the tool.
As for the plastic tyre levers on the Hexus, I took one look at them when I got the tool and simply decided to continue to take a separate set of tyre levers in my kit. The other multi tools mentioned don’t even have tyre levers, so the fact that the ones on the Hexus are probably rubbish is neither here nor there.
With the one up EDC the headset/stem adjustment is done with a cassette tool in the workshop or the tool included on multi tool itself for that purpose. (I’ve included the OneUp installation video in the post I linked too. All the info I have from the first release is in there)
Looks like a good solution on paper, I just hope the installation and real world operation live up to the promise.
As this thread highlights there are plenty of rubbish tools out there.
Yes, I looked at the video. You cut a thread into the inside of your alu steerer and then a cassette lockring type bolt preloads the headset. Very neat.
Another vote for the Topeak Mini 20 – I can’t think what else it lacks, apart from a pair of pliers, perhaps, but for the size of a small box of matches, it’s tough to beat.
This is my back-pocket kitbag now for mountain biking (USB stick for scale):
…which when opened out looks like this:
This gives me:
[list]
[*]multi-tool, chain link remover etc.[/*]
[*]Pump (CO2 + head – I carry different types depending on the bike[/*]
[*]Puncture repair kit – patches, glue (I like the TipTop kits and the boxes are ace for carrying small bits)[/*]
[*]Chain power-links – 10 and 11 speed[/*]
[*]Spare brake pads[/*]
[/list]
All of that in those two small pouches which fit neatly in my back pocket with a spare tube. Not let me down yet…
Another daft question about the OneUp…what do the people who buy kit to then sell on after a couple of months? (I’m not one of them)
Also, what do you do with trailside adjustments on the headset? (few and far between but still need done at times)
CB17 here too for my MTBs (along with a Leatherman mini tool and a leatherman S4 at the moment, used to be a leatherman wave)
I have a Knog one for my commuter, and a park one for my brompton, but don’t carry a chain tool on either of those
Unlike mountain bike standards, multitools haven’t really changed or improved in the last few years, so what was good 5 years ago is probably still pretty good now
Hexus 2 for me- I did explode one a while back but it was old and I was trying to undo a really stuck bolt so fair enough. The levers are shite but that’s no loss, because who uses multitool levers anyway?
I did nearly buy a ratchet rocket to replace that one but it seemed like more stuff to go wrong.
I’ve never gone for the jumbo all in one McGuiver do everything jobbies, just stuff that works-a decent mini allen key set + take a Park chain tool and a couple of tyre levers.
+1 for a minimalist allen key set and a small chain tool –
For a standalone chain tool this is great – 77g according to CRC plus you can lose a bit and make it easier to pack by ditching the “bar” – either on purpose or just lose it like I did – then use a suitable allen key to turn the chain tool.
Annoyingly I have both one of those Park chain tools and a topeak mini-6 in the garage somewhere…. but will probably just buy a second SV-10 for the commuter bike.
Another happy CB m17 user here. My first must be about 10yrs old, plenty of use but still going strong. I’ve had lezyne and pro ones for other bikes but have ended up replacing them with another, shinier, m17.
My favourite tool combination on a fast road bike (albeit with a not so fast rider) is this:
Scott mini tool: 1mm, 2mm, 3mm, 4mm, 5mm, 6mm and 8mm hex keys, T25, flat and phillips screwdrivers, with magnetic holders at both ends (one inline and the other at 90 degrees)