Cube Stereo Super HPC 160 Race 650b
I've had to tweak the seat a couple of times and move it forward as I sometimes get lower back pain as if I'm lent too far over, but it's sometimes due to not tightening my camelback up properly and it riding on my lower spine. The wider handle bars do also cause you to lean over a bit more and I normally find on long climbs I'll adopt a narrower hand position on my grips as long as the trail allows it.
You are running your bars to low, the wider you go the taller you have to run them to keep your body position the same.
Hi Tom, thanks for the tips. I have to admit I'd prefer tweaking the brakes rather than going out and buying new, especially as I can't afford it either. The comment on the bars was interesting though, going to check the rise of the stock bars and possibly see about trying a riser bar to see if that makes a difference.
I can guarantee with 95 percent confidence that taller bars will solve your issue mate.
I went from 10mm rise to 50mm rise and boom, my back issues and arm fatigue went. And I actually gained more control over the bike.
Wide bars are great, but wide and flat is an utter fad. Sure I lost a little bit of confidence on flat turns because the front wheel is less weighted....but guess what you have to do to resolve that? Lean forward a little more to the position you'd be in with flat bars.
The correct bar height gives you a nice neutral position that allows you to get over the back or weight up the front, WHEN NEEDED. Slammed bars have you weighting up the front wheel when you don't need to and needlessly increase rider fatigue.
Let me know how the 203mm rotor and Castrol SRF/Motul 600 go. Have a look at some guidelines on how to properly bed pads if you've glazed them.
I've got some brand new boxed 30mm rise black Spank 777 evo bars, you can have them for 20 quid....dunno if those will be enough rise for you? How many spacer's do you have above the stem (if any)? If you can't move the bars up to try the rise before you get a pair of riser bars (because masses of spacers looks awful)....get a couple of bars with different rises...try them out...send the on you don't like back.
Now then, figured I'd give an update on how ye olde cube is getting on.
Stuff I've changed since my last post -
Got some Nukeproof 760 wide bars with a 38mm rise in them to try and cure a slight pain in my lower back. Seems to have done the trick.
Changed my brakes, got some Shimano XT and sold the Formula RC Tune on ebay - was going to try bleeding with a higher temperature brake fluid like Tom suggested in a previous post but ended up changing them. As a side note, Halfords brake fluid has the same active ingredients as the Motul and Castrol but was about half the price and readily available.
Decided on this after a number of rides with me just falling out with my brakes. I think one of the key things was I didn't like the way the lever pivoted and I basically couldn't get them set up how I like to brake without a lot of discomfort. I also didn't like the modulation on them - something that I have since discovered is absolutely awesome on the XTs. I don't exactly have cash flying around, so changing them was a big cost even though the XTs were reasonably priced at about £135 for front and rear. So I ventured onto ebay and managed to sell the Formulas for £75 which was a result. Then I also sold a load of other stuff that covered the cost completely and a new set of tyres.
The XTs are awesome. The first time I tried them was at round 1 of the Scottish Enduro and they weren't exactly bedded in, but on the slopes you could just apply them and the modulation and feel was a world apart from the Formulas which seemed to just be on or off in comparison. It's possible the formulas needed bleeding anyways, but either way, it was a sound purchase. I also had to shorten the rear brake hose (at 12pm on the Friday before the weekend of the enduro) and started looking round for bleed kits when I realised you could shorten it without having to re-bleed as long as you had an insert and gromit (with spares coming with the brakes), so did that no problem.
Also got a set of WTB Vigilantes which I've been looking for since before xmas but they were either out of stock or too expensive. Saw some on sale so got them and I'm running them tubeless. One minor thing is they are freaking tight on the rim, I don't actually think I'll get them off again without ripping out the rim strip first. They seem to have loads of grip in the rubbish weather though although the argument could be made that I got them the wrong side of winter, but never mind. My rear Hans Dampf was pretty much bald and I could feel the difference straight away with the Vigilantes.
Also went for a 1 x 10 setup after botching changing a cable on my front deraileur and having no option but to remove it to go out the following day. The gearing has worked absolutely fine and I find myself wondering why I ever had a 2 x 10 setup in the first place (I had a spare 32 ring from when I bought the bike and got rid of the outer 3rd chain ring and replaced it with a bash guard). It did drop the chain though so got a race face thin fat chain ring which has worked absolutely fine so far and I have to say I like the bars and bike in general being less clustered.
I did the Innerleithen Day Night enduro back at the end of November feeling a bit rubbish and it absolutely destroyed me. Since then I've been out pretty regularly and as mentioned completed the 1st round of the Scottish enduro series at Fort William. Was good fun and my fitness was good even if it did absolutely chuck it down most of the time. Round 2 is next weekend at Innerleithen and I'm looking forward to that with some slight trepidation.
Fitness is generally good at the moment. I don't commute and I'm planning on getting out on the evening a bit more but it's difficult with work so mostly weekends for me. Went to Gisburn a couple weekends ago and I think I'll leave going back there. It's quite a drive and just not worth it really, the trail's too short and just so freaking rocky it becomes unpleasant. I'd rather slog it through mud than get vibrated to pieces. There's the odd bit that's good, but it's in need to repair in places and lengthening - not easy I appreciate, but there's just better alternatives closer to home for me.
Main two issues at the moment is a pain in my left knee and left wrist. I think the left knee is a result of getting some five 10 shoes with that stealth sole which grips your flat pedals like there's no tomorrow. But I find I pedal a bit wonky just due to my freakish left leg and as a result, I think the lack of give in the sole means that I'm putting my knee through a more unnatural range of motion than before when I wore trainers and they were less grippy and had some flex. As a result I'm going back to clip ins tomorrow for a ride to see if the same pains comes, the hope being that the clipped pedals will force me to pedal in a more natural range of motion. I'm also going to see a physio just to get it checked out so i'll have to see how it pans out.
The left wrist issue is a bit more tricky and I've tweaked my bars and brakes to see if this goes away. It could basically be a number of things so I won't bore you with the details, just tweaking here, going for a ride, tweaking there, etc, etc.
Other service stuff that needs doing. Both the fork and shock could do with a service, or at least a strip down and oil change. The headset bearing casings are rusting up but the bearing seems to be fine. The rockshox reverb could do with having the hose shortened (but I'm very wary about this one as my mate had issues with his and he fixed it at great cost for spare parts - like an extortionate £45 for a bit of metal in the handlebar lever).
Other than that, I'd still like to change the gear lever and deraileur as I#m still unhappy with them but can live with that and the wheels have taken a right battering to the point that my free wheel fell apart the other week when putting on the Vigilantes. I managed to fix it but the free wheel hub body is basically loose. It rides fine (for now), but it's a DT Swiss hub so if it does loosen then the ratchet won't engage and I'll just be spinning a lot and going nowhere! So i'm considering getting a new rear wheel. I can't true wheels, the rims damaged as well as some spokes and the hubs a bit fooked, so I figure it's cheaper to get a new wheel than pay someone to lace in a new hub. But I haven't checked this exactly as it's all still working for the time being and the bathroom needs redecorating!
Hope everyone has a great weekend riding.Posted 3 weeks ago #
Posted 3 weeks ago #
You must log in to post.