Viewing 24 posts - 1 through 24 (of 24 total)
  • Cross brake judder
  • soma_rich
    Free Member

    What’s that about then? I don’t remember ever having this on old moutain bikes with catis. I was convinced my new cross bike had a loose headset as on steeep decents where I was using the front brake more I get judder.

    Apparantly this is common on CX bikes, but why?

    Here’s my set up have I done something wrong?

    Onzadog
    Free Member

    It’s fork flex. Swap to a fork mounted cable hanger.

    Teetosugars
    Free Member

    See that little hole in the forks?

    You can get an adapter that holds the cable that is attached to that hole

    It holds the cable lower down, and somehow( Not sure of all the ins and outs) it’ll help reduce it.

    soma_rich
    Free Member

    ahhh I have seen them now you mention it, I just had a steer tube mounted one knocking about. Hmm that will mean new cable outer though! Think i will wait till its time to change its not that bad. So why didnt mountain bikes have the same issue ?

    wwaswas
    Full Member

    you could try dropping the straddle cable a bit.

    Onzadog
    Free Member

    Stiffer heavier forks.

    woody2000
    Full Member
    GDRS
    Full Member

    Try the straddle cable tip first Rich.

    I had a set of mini V’s on before and had no real flexing at all.

    Looks the biz as a SS. Nice work.

    G

    JoB
    Free Member

    it’s t do with the fork flexing affecting the length of the straddle wire and creating a harmonic

    wwaswas – Member
    you could try dropping the straddle cable a bit.

    you want to raise the straddle cable to lessen the power of the brakes to stop judder, but that looks about the right place.

    trying toeing the brake pads in more, then changing the brake pads, then fitting a fork mounted hanger

    you could fit a fork-mounted hanger by putting an in-line cable adjuster and extra bit of outer on the existing cable

    wwaswas
    Full Member

    Ignore Jo he has absolutely no idea what he’s talking about.

    Or it might be me 😳

    squaremonkey
    Free Member

    I had the same issue when I first rode the Kona JTS I bought off of rigid_carbon on here but he suggested this and it worked a treat:

    You will have to set up the front brake
    with toe in.
    If this is not set up the braking can be a bit scary!

    http://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help/cantilever-brake-service

    http://sheldonbrown.com/canti-trad.html

    Scroll down to ‘toe in’.

    Once they are set up , you will not have an issue

    squaremonkey
    Free Member

    I had the same issue when I first rode the Kona JTS I bought off of rigid_carbon on here but he suggested this and it worked a treat:

    You will have to set up the front brake
    with toe in.
    If this is not set up the braking can be a bit scary!

    http://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help/cantilever-brake-service

    http://sheldonbrown.com/canti-trad.html

    Scroll down to ‘toe in’.

    Once they are set up , you will not have an issue

    allthepies
    Free Member
    sefton
    Free Member
    ton
    Full Member

    cable hanger on top of the forks will sort it.
    this was a common fault on spesh tricross bikes early on…..i know cos i had 2

    the forls are fine, they will not cause any judder.

    simple fix

    http://www.edinburghbicycle.com/products/tektro-fork-mount-cable-hanger?gclid=CMOVvYLe4bkCFYPHtAod7CMAyg

    cx_monkey
    Full Member

    Setting your toe in on the pads will sort most of the issue – photo makes it look like you’ve got them ‘heal in’. Don’t know if what all the others are saying about the fork mount cable stop will work – I’ve a carbon fork that won’t take one anyway – but the correct toe-in gets rid of it for me.

    I also run my straddle cable way lower than you have too – power is better. Just sayin’ like…

    sefton
    Free Member

    straddle cable two finger gap – slight toe in.

    looks like you have a big headtube so you will always have a long wire.

    try the hanger it will sort it.

    DezB
    Free Member

    I got rid of it by fitting some of these:

    Mini Vs

    +
    these

    They stop better and don’t judder. Cross racers say they haven’t got the mud clearance, but I’m not a cross racer. (and they are far easier to set up, but you’d know that already)

    vdubber67
    Free Member

    My forks judder on my spare / training bike, but never seem to brake enough in a race to find it a problem! 🙂

    soma_rich
    Free Member

    Thanks guys will have a play toeing the pads in and then invest in a fork mounted hanger. Hmmm our maybe just buy some nice carbon fork s 😉

    eskay
    Full Member

    +1 for the fork mounted cable hanger. My crosslight was unrideable when new, went back to Kenisis and they sent me a fork mounted hanger and some more cable outer and it was a different bike.

    May have a spare somewhere as they sent two.

    PePPeR
    Full Member

    Make sure the headset isn’t loose too.

    Any looseness can magnify any brake judder!

    I gave up with mine in the end and went for the mini V option it cured it instantly.

    Northwind
    Full Member

    Mini-vs for me too. Didn’t make any difference clearance-wise either for me as the frame was still more restrictive than the brakes.

    benji
    Free Member

    I had judder initially on my SuperX (carbon frame and fork) so plenty stiff enough, spoke to a national class rider, who rode the same frame, and recommended ditching the standard frog leg brakes, did this for avid ultimates, no more judder, loads more power, and no mud clearance issues, yes it’s expensive, but it cured it.

Viewing 24 posts - 1 through 24 (of 24 total)

The topic ‘Cross brake judder’ is closed to new replies.