My 601 has developed a few creaks, the worst of which seems to be from the front shock mount/slider.
Before I start pulling it apart, anyone had similar?
Ideas?

Spend an hour doing all the easy stuff, remove, clean and grease all pivot bolts, seatclamp bolt, stem bolts etc etc. Sound can travel very well through an alloy frame.

If it’s still there, then look at bearings. I assume they have needle bearings like the 301?.

shock mount needle bearings on 301’s have a reputation for getting creaky – as above if the 601 is the same then I’d check those first.

The tiny shock needles bearings on my 301 were immaculate….but the big pivot ones were shot. Very poor sealing. If the 601 has them they will be pressed into the down tube I suspect…as they are pressed into the top tube on the 301. If these need replacing dont forget to make sure they come with the custom Liteville bearing axle 🙂 Mine didn’t and it was really pitted. Eventually found one by phoning a random German bike shop.

Got a 301,

but had a bolt done up to 14nm and not 12. creaked like buggery and i thought it was the forks. Almost sent them back (packed up and off the bike) before i discovered it. Took it all apart and rebuilt it as per spec and alls well.

if anyone gets stuck with the 301 bearings and stuff give me a shout.

Needle roller bearings are worth a look at but seldom need more than a re-grease.
Either push the centre axle half way out; push grease into rollers; push back through and repeat other side.
Or, push the centre right out; remove the rollers and degrease; repack bearing outer race with marime grease; reassemble.

Shock mount to frame contact surfaces can be greased a little as it’s serrated so won’t slip. The bolt that goes through it into the frame could possibly be the culprit, in need of a clean & grease?

Bearings in the linkages have so far (approaching 2 years) been completely problem free on my 601.
My 301 bearings lasted about 2.5 years but that got a lot more Winter use.

Which was the torque-fussy bolt Andy?

Thanks all. I’m off today so will have a sit in the sun and give it all a clean/grease 8)

the rear shock bolt.

Im a bit sad with stuff like this though. Ended up removing, greasing / thread locking every bolt on the bike after that.

I’m a bit sad with stuff like this though. Ended up removing, greasing / thread locking every bolt on the bike after that.

That’s not “sad”, that’s thorough/competent/diligent.
Either that or quite possibly I’m also sad, as I do that with every bike I build.
Plus… Pop every bearing cover off and pack with grease too.
and… Do a lower leg service on new forks before using them, as they’re often almost dry.

Well it appears that cleaning and regreasing has cured it..

Has anybody replaced the 301 main swingarm bearings? Mine seemed shot but I can’t get the driveside bolt out as the threaded bush it goes into unscrews from the frame rather than the bolt coming out. Without cutting through the Ti bolt I don’t see how to get the swingarm off.

Which version of the 301 is this ^^^?

Does anyone know any decent U.K. Bike shops that service litevilles? I would do the bearings myself but a) I’ll probably do something wrong and don’t have the tools and b) with two young kids I don’t have the time.

I’m not sure I’ve understood the query about the main swingarm bearing but the bolts each side need to be unscrewed at the same time with two Allen keys?

Well one bolt comes straight out but the other seems to be stuck in a threaded bush that unthreads out of the frame until it hits the swingarm; no further turning then possible.

Doh! Sorry, was thinking about the main frame rocker bearing. However, have you tried undoing both sides of the swing arm bearing at the same time?

I don’t think the bolt goes into an axle, the bearings are in the swingarm, not the frame; the bolts pass through the bearings and thread into the frame. Were there an axle the bolt would just turn and turn.

Hmm, fair enough. You could try dropping Welsh Farmer a line – I think he has changed bearings in his 301.

chickenman, I have recently replaced all the bearings on my 301. I can’t recall there being a problem but have a look inside the main pivot axle after you have removed one side. There “may” be an allen key-way inside that you can use to hold the axle while unscrewing the other side. Rings a bell.

Regarding the OPs creak. My 301 started creaking recently despite all new bearings. Appeared to come from the rear. Turned out that the headset bearings needed a turn on the top cap to tighten them up. All good now

Thanks for that WF, I’ll give that a shot.

What welshfarmer said ^^^ I replaced the main pivot bearing on my 301 about six months ago and only remember undoing the the two big pivot bolts with an 8mm A/F allen key.
Sorry I can’t check this though, as the bike is on the IoM and I’m in Greece atm.

So looks like I probably need a full set of bearings as it has all gone a bit loose and rattly. What bearings do I need as the Syntace site only has the needle bearings and shock bolts.

Thanks

2 x NA49002RS are the main rocker bearings that sits in the top tube….
I bought these from simplybearings.co.uk

2 x 6902 for the main pivot
6 x 6801 for either end of the seat stays (2 bottom 1 top on each side)
bought as a kit from BikeWright.com (website being redone at the mo). For some reason the kit includes 8 x 6801, presumably in case you have 160 & 140 rockers??

Welshfarmer,

One query/challenge on your list of bearing codes.
Based on what I know is the case for the 301, I suspect the main pivot on the 601 will not be a standard 6902. It will likely have the extended inner race.

For the 301, the bearing code detail is:

Main pivot – 2 off – 6902 LLU MAX-E 15x28x7/10, (extended inner race)

I’ll be surprised if the 601 isn’t the same. I haven’t had cause to open mine yet. Can anybody confirm?

cant comment on the 601 but for the guy with the 301.

these pics might help
https://photos.google.com/share/AF1QipODOThfuCWdpUt0PZJphA2sxM9NGbq484qmoATCffL28KLWwXn–Lu-Wd0cV1emgg?key=TDVWMktxNExRbXZXLVJPWWRSS0F6MUE2cS1uZU5n

the swing arm bearing is extended. The black bolt screws into the frame. It can be stiff. give the rear triangle a wiggle as you remove it. (mk12 onwards its 2 bolts as ones a grease port)

The rear horst bearings you can get a allen key through the bolt and into the axle. You can then undue the bolt both sides.

Hope that helps. If you get stuck post pictures 🙂

I asked BETD to put together a bearing kit for me – well, I gave them the part numbers and they sourced them.

@Ecky Thump you could be right about the extended inner race bearings. I am afraid I only copied the codes off the invoice from Bikewright which only gives the numbers and not the extended data code. Apologies