I was going to swap over the Raceface Ride cranks i fitted recently to the Parkwood onto the Whyte T130. Mostly because of the low BB on the Whyte and the fact it’s running a 175mm cranks, the Raceface set newly fitted to the Parkwood are 170mm. That extra little bit would help.

The Raceface Ride as fitted to the Parkwood are simple enough, use this tool, wind it in, tighten the 8mm allen bolt and it pulls the cranks out..

However on the Whyte, as pictured, it doesn’t…. does it ? I threaded it on and it seems to have stripped the first 2 lines of threads instead, so i’m guessing it’s the wrong tool and not doing what i wanted.

Is it the correct tool for the BB? IE, is it a tool specifically for an ISIS BB (that’s what it looks like to me), or is it for a square taper axle?

Looks like it needs the button insert for the tool to push against

I don’t know Clodhopper, that’s why i’m asking mate 🙂

P20, it has the insert fitted. it’s a magnetic jobbie on the end of the allen bolt.

I think the crank is self extracting. Put the retaining bolt back in, screw in the outer collar with the larger hexagon hole in it then undo the retaining bolt against this outer collar-always assuming you can get the collar back in with the borked thread that is!

is that a hollowtech type crankset (ie. external BB cups)?

The tools for both ST and ISIS look the same. The inner bolt in the ISIS version has a wider diameter head, which butts up against the outer edge of the BB axle. A ST version would simply push through inot the axle, and not do anything. Some tools have an interchangeable head for different BBs.

Replace the outer bolt and it will self extract when you unscrew the inner one as it uses it to press against – make sense? Should have hole in centre to unscrew inner one.
Edit – reluctant explained it in English above, not my gibberish.

Was the right tool after all, just needed to thread the main part in a little further, or better..

Thanks lads.

A bit of oil or grease on the tool threads may help, as will carefully cleaning the crank threads with a small toothbrush or similar. Bits of grit could get trapped and damage the softer aluminium threads. And always go easy when screwing the tool in; I’ve seen a fair few cross threaded/stripped cranks in my time!

indeed, i cleaned up the threads, a little aquirt of GT-85 on the tool and it went in a lot nicer.

Any ideas what that actual crankset is guys ? Want to check i’ve got the spacing right after re-installing it as i’ve been running 1×10 for a while, gone back to 2×10.

Got a weird noise on the Parkwood i’m trying to work out at the moment, so just wanted to check this as well.

I don’t actually think the cranks are the issue, but maybe the BB due to installation.

RF Ride ?

I thought that too as it’s very similar to my RF Ride Single ring setups….

Raceface seem to have several crank fixing methodologies. My first set used the self-extracting method with the outer nut mentioned above. The set I got for the fat bike require an ISIS crank puller, helpfully the full-colour installation instructions made no mention of how to get the cranks off 🙄 Which if you have a bike with a RF Monterey Jack bottom bracket is an absolute necessity.

I think the crank is self extracting. Put the retaining bolt back in, screw in the outer collar with the larger hexagon hole in it then undo the retaining bolt against this outer collar-always assuming you can get the collar back in with the borked thread that is!

This!

ARRGGHHHHHH. I’d forgotten.

I sent my Parkwood cranks to the blokey on here who was without bike and we all built one for.

So the cranks i’ve ACTUALLY got here are indeed from the Whyte T130SX. Whihc makes things a LOT easier as the bike i can still find on-line.

Race Face Ride, 36-22, 10 Speed, Compact Double

Thanks all 🙂

This!

No, not that guys… The removal has been done and needed the tool linked above… it’s not the self extracting type

Looking at the install docs… I should have a 2.5mm crank spacer on the drive side, which i’m 99% sure i do.

But possibly importantly i’ve got to check if i’ve got 3.5 MM QUAD RING ELASTOMER, which is on the non-drive side of the crank arm, but that could arguably allow too much pressure/preload on the crank and cause an issue if i’ve not.