hey folks. i own a gary fisher roscoe 3 and whilst doing some work on it tonight noticed the start of what i think is a crack in a well documented part in there frames. Now unfortunately i aint the original owner, i’ve got proof of purchase but not original till receipt, so i dont really think im going to have much luck in getting anything warranty wise. Im thinking, as i think ive got it at an early stage, could i get a weld onto it before it does go snap? Its on the chainstay on the drivetrain side..

20130207_210948 by thebigman1191, on Flickr

20130207_211115 by thebigman1191, on Flickr

you are best off removing the paint and getting a proper look

Remove the paint and get a proper look would be my advice

Yeh, thats my next step.. gutted when i saw it.. dont even think there will be any chainstays left at trek/fisher as so many of them have went the same way..

Yeh, thats my next step.. gutted when i saw it.. dont even think there will be any chainstays left at trek/fisher as so many of them have went the same way..

You never know till you call, be nice, friendly and hopefull. Explain how you like the bike and enjoy riding it and your gutted it’s failed.

It goes a long way.

I don’t think you’d get a warranty.

I doubt its structural anyway, v odd place to crack.

I doubt its structural anyway, v odd place to crack.

Pivot bearings may be seized. Plenty of frames go like that. No end of Specialized frames from around 2007 had cracked chainstays.

Stress riser caused by welding on the cable bracket. The stay is obviously flexing a lot, just look at the cracks in the paint.

Nice craquelue finish you have there, as above, obviously loads of flexing going on

@rockhopper- thats exactly whay the general consensus is.. as peeps said above i dont think i’ll get anywhere with regards to warranty.. i know i wont know how bad it is until i get the swingarm off and have a look under the paint.. but do you think if a get a weld over it just now it’ll hold?

If you weld it, you will have to retemper/ harden it, as the material around the weld will soften during the welding process.

I doubt its structural anyway, v odd place to crack.

The opposite actually

Driveside chainstays are under cyclical lateral loading with every turn of the cranks – the chainstay resists the pull of the chain and bends slightly under the strain.
This is exactly what aluminium is intolerant of, it causes stress hardening and fatigue fracture.
If you weld it without re-tempering it (usually to t6 temper) then it will likely not last more than a few rides.

walleater – Member
Pivot bearings may be seized. Plenty of frames go like that. No end of Specialized frames from around 2007 had cracked chainstays.

Ah didn’t know it was full suss.

sugdenr – Member
The opposite actually

Driveside chainstays are under cyclical lateral loading with every turn of the cranks – the chainstay resists the pull of the chain and bends slightly under the strain.

We’ve all seen broken chainstays but not like that (on a HT) – in fact not sure I’ve ever seen a frame break like a stress-riser at a braze-on.

Anyway, is it a crack?

It is a full suss.. and wont be able to get chainstay off until the weekend as the bikes at a friends house, but im pretty sure its a crack as im getting a lot of flex and theres loads of evidence here

http://forums.mtbr.com/gary-fisher/gary-fisher-roscoe-owners-693421.html

Crack will develop at a stress concentration point – I reckon that mount is stiffening the chainstay just enough that the/a root of flexing is at that point instead of the usual nearer the BB where the chainstay stiffens up.

Just been to lbs. as i thought, no joy with regards to warranty. There going to see if there are any chainstay’s left that i could purchase, but knowing that they commonly fail im not too desperate to aquire one. Im starting to think about buying another frame( not sure what yet) and transferring all my components. The only problem i might have here is i think my forks/shock might be bike/manufacturer specifiic, which will be a nightmare as ive just spent nigh on £300 with mojo getting the forks rebuilt..

The only problem i might have here is i think my forks/shock might be bike/manufacturer specifiic, which will be a nightmare as ive just spent nigh on £300 with mojo getting the forks rebuilt..

you should be fine with fitting the fork to another frame so long as the frame geometry is designed for the amount of travel your fork has. if you really want to transfer the shock to a new frame you’ll need to make sure you have the correct mounting hardware for the new frame, that is so long as the eye to eye length and the shock stroke ratio are the same. most frames should come with a shock so it would probably be best to sell the shock to another gary fisher owner…
if you’re after another used frame try flat out cycles as they have used full sus frames at tempting prices…

Dont the Gf frames come with forks with a non-standard offset though?

yes they do…46mm offset custom crown….well spotted wwaswas!! 😆

You can still run G2 forks on another frame though, won’t kill you.

Yeh i think so, im not 100% but i think the offset is 46 degrees. which i think is different from other fox forks..

gonzy be me too it. i take it id have to be careful as too which frame i mated them too.?

Those G2 forks are rare, should get a bit of a premium. I had been looking for some 120mm G2 forks for over a year as I have a GF HiFi frame. Gave up in the end and got some normal fox forks.

Yeh i know, not sure if thats a good thing or bad.. i think the offset just made the bike feel a bit ‘longer’ than it was.. very stable..

Just looking at that yeti 575 on probikeshop website, my components would swap over wouldn’t they.. only difference would be that offset with the fork..but it would fit as its tapered. .?

can anyone confirm if my g2 forks of my fisher would fit onto the 575, thinking of going down this root..?

I know that a lot of folk aren’t familiar with the g2 geometry but can anyone shed any light whether or not these forks would fit a 575, as i think im going to go down this route if i can transfer all my running gear over..

I’ve seen worse.

Even the carpet is straining under that load. Poor chair.

What is the fork travel? You want 140-150mm on a 575. The ASR 5 will take 120-140mm.

It will fit if the steerer is long enough.

Its the talas 100-120-140..

Well i stripped the chainstay off the bike today and whilst doing this realised that the main pivot bolt was barely hand tight.. had it in for some work recentlty at the lbs so not very happy on that front. I thnk that the movement in the swingarm had caused the cracking in the paint which could have led to it cracking, but hopefully i caught it just in time.. rubbed down the area in question and there doesnt appear to be any crack..

20130210_174622 by thebigman1191, on Flickr

20130210_173840 by thebigman1191, on Flickr

20130210_173329 by thebigman1191, on Flickr

I’m sure i can see a crack in the alloy there, try checking with a magnifying glass?

Wll do.. just didnt have one to hand..

Thats cracking news 🙂

I am with murf even from the photos theres a distinct crack there

I see no crack…

http://www.flickr.com/photos/21412608@N06/8463214712/sizes/k/in/photostream/

so you two think you can see a crack from a pic yet op cant see with naked eye. okay then

Look at the hi-res version.

Might be wrong though

Edit: this one’s got more paint removed, non?