You’re not really going to be able to bend those around those radiuses corners nicely
If it was me being asked to make it and using something like Corian wasn’t an option….
I’d use exterior grade MDF and good quality paint. Exterior grade boards sand and route really well and the cut edges don’t swell when painted – the cut edges machine to the same finish as the faces of the boards. Mitre all the panel joints rather than but them together then route a round-over. That puts the join line in the middle of that radius and pretty much invisible when filled/sanded painted.
I’ve used this method for making posh exhibition plinths for galleries.
With a bit of prep you could get a good finish with Acid Cat paint – its very robust paint (the medium is used for commercial floor varnishes, bar tops etc) and you can get it mixed in a wide range of different sheens. The stuff is a big deal to apply – its a two part concoction and thinned with xylene. It drys almost instantly when applied (you can fell the setting paint tugging at the brush!). The fast drying means you can apply, sand, apply, sand, repeat – building up a smooth finish in one day rather than having to let stuff cure for days or weeks between stages.
It can work quite well with a brush but doesn’t roll on well. The best result as when its sprayed – probably best handing that over to a pro though unless you’re already kitted up for that.
‘Pre-cat’ paint is similar (its basically the two parts ready mixed) and can be bought in aerosol cans, which are a bit more diy friendly, but still xylene based.
That sort of paint would be tough enough for most of the surfaces – but it would be probably worth while routing in recesses in high wear areas like the receptionist work surface and dropping a formica laminated bit of ply.
