Viewing 19 posts - 1 through 19 (of 19 total)
  • Cotic Soul Chainline
  • wisepranker
    Free Member

    I’ve just got hold of a Classic Soul frame and am in the process of building it up.
    It’s going to be running 1×10 with a Shadow+ XT rear mech, 11-36 XT cassette and an SLX double chainset with the rings and bash removed and replaced with a Blackspire 32t chainring.

    I’ve just fitted all the bits and the chainline at the top end of the cassette is terrible. Apart from swapping the BB spacer from the DS to the NDS, is there anything I can do about it or do I just need to go back to a double set-up up front?

    I’m sure I’ve seen others running the Soul as 1×10 so was just wondering how you guys have managed it?

    miranmtb
    Free Member

    Don’t have a cotic but the chainline on my shimano cranks is 50mm (measured from the center of the frame). If you have the 135mm rear hub, you can get the position on the cassette where the chain is straght by measuring 17,5mm (math: 135/2-50) from the rear dropout – where the hub touches the frame. I have learned this when setting up my singlespeed. In my case the 1×10 chain is bent more when on 36t rear, than 11t. No problems so far, but def more draggy then my ss.

    blahblahblah
    Free Member

    I would space the chainring up the cassette using some to get a better chainline. Might need to use longer chainring bolts though. If you need to move it more than the 2.5mm the spacer would give you, you might need to move the spacer too – although that would leave the crank arm closer to the stays on the DS than the NDS – which I’m not too keen on.

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    suffolk
    Free Member

    The problem is using the double crankset – the ideal central position is between the two chainrings on a double, need to use middle position on a triple. OR bugger around with spacers trying to shift your chainring in by 1-2mm.

    BigJohn
    Full Member

    I’ve got a Mk1 Soul and while I don’t have a problem with the chainline I do have a problem getting the mech to drop the chain into the 11t sprocket, unless I put a washer between dropout & mech.

    wisepranker
    Free Member

    I’ve just had a play with it and swapped the BB spacer from the DS to the NDS, it doesn’t make a huge difference.
    Just to clarify, the chainline is ok when I’m in the 11t sprocket but when I change up to the 36t it’s terrible!

    reggiegasket
    Free Member

    Is the 32t ring in the ‘middle’ ring position?

    If so, it can’t be any worse than a normal middle ring on a triple..

    You could move the ring inboard with some chainring bolt spacers. Ebay has them in a variaety of widths. Just judge how much chainstay clearance on the 32 ring you have and go from there.

    andyl
    Free Member

    is it the old style SLX double or the new style?

    And are you really sure than you have tapped the DS crank all the way home through the BB?

    chiefgrooveguru
    Full Member

    The SLX double+bash crankset is basically a modified triple isn’t it? If so your front ring is already in the right place. I’m running 1×10 on a Soul and although the chainline looks quite extreme on the biggest (36t) sprocket it works just fine.

    swingbing
    Free Member

    The problem is using the double crankset – the ideal central position is between the two chainrings on a double, need to use middle position on a triple

    +1

    The double and triple cranksets have a different chain line.

    Klunk
    Free Member

    I run a triple and run the spacer on the non drive to improve the chainline. The only issue i have, which is not a problem for you, is clearance on 2.3+ sized tyres and the front mech.

    wisepranker
    Free Member

    The SLX double+bash crankset is basically a modified triple isn’t it? If so your front ring is already in the right place. I’m running 1×10 on a Soul and although the chainline looks quite extreme on the biggest (36t) sprocket it works just fine.

    As far as I’m aware it’s just a modified triple so in theory it should be ok, I might try a coupe of spacers to see if it helps.
    I’ll grab a picture of it and post it up. Can you let me know how it looks compared to yours?

    svalgis
    Free Member

    If you have a fairly new SLX double then the chainline is different from a triple. Can’t say for sure which year they changed it though.

    suffolk
    Free Member

    Measure from seat tube out to middle ring (centre of teeth) + half of seat tube diameter = present chainline.

    50mm should be chainline position of a shimano triple, what are you getting?

    richard1972
    Free Member

    Remove the chain then get a long steel rule and put it on the outside of the chainring. It should line up with the 5th gear up the block. You’re trying to get the center of the chainring to line up with the center of the cassette. The chain line won’t be good in either the 11 or 36 and wears the bottom jockey wheel real fast.

    wisepranker
    Free Member

    Just got back in and took a couple of photo’s of it.

    I like the sound of your suggestion Richard, I’ll give that a try in the morning.

    swingbing
    Free Member

    Is your rear wheel central in the rear chain stays? Do you have the hub adaptors in the correct sides? Might just be the camera angle mind.

    wisepranker
    Free Member

    Is your rear wheel central in the rear chain stays? Do you have the hub adaptors in the correct sides? Might just be the camera angle mind.

    Yes, the wheel’s central. I think it’s just the camera angle.

    chiefgrooveguru
    Full Member

    Looks fine to me, like mine but cleaner (and with a less bling chain).

Viewing 19 posts - 1 through 19 (of 19 total)

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