am in need of restocking for the workshop and was going to order a Shimano branded paste at £18 online at CRC but then came across what looks the same in my local auto store for only 7 quid for the same size and was wondering is the shimano one really that diffrent and any better , or is this just another case of lets say its ” cycle specifc ” and charge double ?

Thoughts and comments welcome .

All pretty much the same IMHO – just saying bike specific and charging more

Are you like 2000 years old if you used it all I plan to let my kids inherit mine

What he^said

No they are not, if you are tightening summit up they can have massive difference in the amount of force you have to apply to achieve a specific torque setting (no problem if you are using a torque wrench)

@falkirk-mark – sorry for being thick but surely the torque setting is a direct measure of the force you have to apply/have applied (force moment to be precise)? How can the force need to vary for a specific torque setting?

I recently bought a 500g tub of Carlube copper paste in GSF Car Parts for about £6 IIRC.

No they are not, if you are tightening summit up they can have massive difference in the amount of force you have to apply to achieve a specific torque setting (no problem if you are using a torque wrench)

I’ve been tightening stuff up wrong for the last 25 years ffs 🙄

Drag coefficient or some sh1t like that, Some stuff is slippier than other stuff in laymans terms

A 500g tin of Rocol anti-seize is about £20 and will last forever

I took 2 opened tins from work that were going to be binned when the place shut down in 1979
I’m just getting to the bottom of the first one

Usually torque settings are quoted for a dry assembly, lubed threads require less torque

No they are not, if you are tightening summit up they can have massive difference in the amount of force you have to apply to achieve a specific torque setting (no problem if you are using a torque wrench)

There’s a small difference between the co-efficient of friction between different brands of copper slip which is only important if you are[/u] using a torque wrench to achieve a specified tighening force. The difference will be tiny on most bike components, the controlled tightening data tables don’t start much below M8.

I checked the tables and the copper based ones listed coefficient seem to vary between 0.09 and 0.15

So to summarise, (and to hopefully stop my 25 year flashbacks to dingy lecture theatres), – lubricating threads can reduce thread friction meaning that less torque force needs to be applied to achieve the desired clamping force……phew!

See here.

…of course I don’t own a bike torque wrench so will continue to do bolts up until it feels about right, adding a splodge of any old copper paste to the threads to stop them seizing up.

And relax!

I’d have thought any grease would lubricate a thread so it does not effect the tightening.
What I think you are looking for is something that does not wash away (or evaporate) letting corrosion set in.
Then you get into the compatability of materials, and I think Copper and Aluminium are at opposite ends of the galvanic scale, you’ll have to read the link below as that will probably make more sense

null

So what yout you all mean is that it done make no diffrence what brand of copper slip you use ..correct ? 8)

that’s right.
the corrosion will happen just as quickly

there is nothing else like Shimano Anti-Seize on the market, its worth every penny. especially when dealing with light-weight, high-end components and the new press-fit bottom brackets, and integrated headsets

on a daily basis in my workshop, I am dealing with customers with high-end road bikes coming in with ‘creaking cranks’ where the original dealer has assembled the bottom bracket and crankset with grease…

grease…is for bearings, not for fitting metal to metal parts, and using grease definitely has a variable impact on setting torque when using torque wrenches and torque measurement tools, compared to anti-seize which has no impact because its not a lubricant, but an isolating compound

on these problematic road bikes, we strip the BB, crankset and pedals from the bike, degrease with ISO alcohol and install the components with Shimano Anti-Seize (this includes chain ring bolts and any BB adapters or other metal components like shims and pre-load spacers)

these customers don’t come back to our store, with the same problem, because the problem has been solved

on my mountain bike, I can install a set of cranks using Anti-Seize into a press-fit BB system, and ride it for 6 months using the bike 2-3 days a week in wet weather, washing the bike after every ride and will not have any issues with drivetrain noise, the Anti-Seize is still visible after 6 months

just don’t get Shimano Anti-Seize on your clothes because it does not come off!

compared to anti-seize which has no impact because its not a lubricant, but an isolating compound

copaslip grease is not a lubricant – are you sure?
they claim to reduce the torque and be a grease on their data sheet
I assume Shimano do as well as it is a copper based grease
http://www.molyslip.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/11/Copaslip-Data-Sheet.pdf

there is nothing else like Shimano Anti-Seize on the market, its worth every penny. especially when dealing with light-weight, high-end components and the new press-fit bottom brackets, and integrated headsets

So how is it any diffrent to a copper paste costing a third of the price , do Shimano put some super duper ingredient which makes it more bike freindly ?

http://www.cromwell.co.uk/index.php?q=0&p=viewproduct&i=MLY7033610T

discounted if your company has an account.

So how is it any different to a copper paste costing a third of the price , do Shimano put some super duper ingredient which makes it more bike freindly ?

Nah just a fancy tube 😉

Hi, first time poster here. Copper slip is an anti-seize compound and as it doesn’t conduct electricity it doesn’t set up a galvanic cell and cause corrosion as many think. In industry copperslip is used usually in high temperature applications where normal grease compounds break down or dry up, so is a bit of overkill on a bike, but works fine. Whether you use copperslip or another product I can’t see it really mattering, they all work the same, but in any case don’t use too much as the screws can come loose easily, especially in high vibration applications, I cringe when you see grease or copperslip oozing out from bolt or screw heads. Screw threads rely on friction to maintain torque.

http://www.ciclipinarello.com/else/garanzie/PinarelloENGLISHweb.pdf

“THREADS, THREAD-LOCKERS, GREASE AND TIGHTENING TORQUES
One of the most debated issues is the coupling of threaded parts; in particular it is debated if threads should be a) degreased or b) lubricated or c) treated with thread-lockers, and what is the proper torque to be applied in each of these cases.
In line of principle, we expect threaded couplings to remain able/tight over time with no loosening, we expect that they can be taken apart when necessary, we expect that they do not generate noises due to micro-movements of the parts, we expect them not to develop corrosion.
Corrosion, that can be a big problem because it can seize or damage threads, it is frequent between different metals (titanium-aluminum,
steel-aluminum). In the past there were no alternatives and grease was used in the threads, to fulfill all four needs. But grease facilitates
loosening, does not last forever, migrates, changes characteristics, is washed away, does not always offer sufficient corrosion protection, and reduces noises only temporarily.
Thread-lockers have been used for many years in mechanics. What is a thread-locker?
It is a liquid that is applied on the threads during installation and solidifies in the following hours. It is available in many “strengths”, but for the bike it is preferable to use the weak one, Loctite® 222 or Arexons® System 52A22. Thread-lockers offer numerous benefits when used on threaded couplings: 1) prevent undesired loosening without the need to use high tightening torques, 2) prevent corrosion in the interface,
3) prevent any micro-movement with associated noises, 4) they remain stable over time.
Thread-lockers solidify when air is absent, therefore the entire space between the threads must be filled with product, otherwise, if not
enough product is used, it will remain liquid.
Using a thread-locker stronger than recommended can seize the threads, especially bigger diameter threads.
Using the proper tightening torques it’s essential for correct function and to avoid loosening or structural damages. In certain cases tightening torques ensure mechanical couplings, in other cases they prevent loosening. You authorized dealer will use, in
certain applications, the thread-locker and eventually apply a lower torque. Tightening torques are different if the thread is lubricated,
treated with thread-lockers or degreased. Most torques are specified by component manufacturers and appear in their instructions, but
carbon frames require special care during assembly and maintenance. To lubricate threads never use lithium based greases.”

http://forum.slowtwitch.com/cgi-bin/gforum.cgi?do=post_view_flat;post=3345080;page=1;sb=post_latest_reply;so=ASC;mh=25

Those last 2 posts have gone right over my head …got a 500 gram tub for 8 quid as i cant see how the shimano cycle specific one offers anything over the automative version .