Using all the existing running gear.

I only use the 36t when racing (weedy) Any advantage to removing the outer and fitting either a double guard or catcher?
The space between rings has become a mud trap.

I know that the old bikes used a double guard affair. So any advice recommendations.

have you considered a thick/thin chainring?

I’ve been running this for 3 seasons now (with rear mach cage spring tension increased)

But I’ve got a 40t hope thick/thin coming so will lose the outer guide.

Never knew they existed. Look very interesting.
Feedback asap please.

Is that a fang?

Aye…if you are of the financially unforthcoming persuasion you can make one out of a reflector bracket.
And the outer guard is just a 42t ring with the teeth ground off.

Now you’re talking my language.

My bike is such a bodge.Mis-matched tyres,mtb mech,odd levers/shifters,weird handlebars (bell Laps),50mm tubs.I’ve only just ditched the ancient canti’s for some blingy Avid Shorty Ultimates.The frames all dented to buggery (and we’ll gloss over the asymmetric bb shell!)
I get some right funny looks at races (although that could just be the beard!)

thick/thin chainrings have been A Thing in mountainbiking for a while now since wide ranging cassettes mean you can get a decent gear spread allowing you to ditch spare chainrings

combined with a highly-sprung clutch rear mech they mean you don’t need any guides or catchers to keep the chain on

this has moved over to CX (see the SRAM CX1) with a collection of thick/thin CX ready rings available from different manufacturers

been running a ROTOR wonky thick/thin ring on a baggy old 9spd system and since i’ve started using a 10spd chain on it it’s worked well, although at last week’s incredibly muddy race it dropped the chain several times thanks to the overloading of mud on the ring and in the mech making the chain all baggy