I am toying with the idea to convert into 1×11. Thinking of getting an XT 11-42T cassette, XTR shifter, XT mech and 32T NW chain ring (not sure which one yet).

The crankset I’ve got just now is Shimano FC-M627: http://www.tredz.co.uk/.Shimano-Deore-FC-M627-10-Speed-Chainset_92590.htm

I take it’s a bit low-end, but I am trying to understand whether I need (or want) the new cranks. The bike is fairly new, have done under 500km so far.

What I cannot understand is why some cranks are so bloody expensive. I am not after the weight too much, but want to understand what makes a good crank. Is it the stiffness, so it does not flex and you transfer more power onto the chain?

What I cannot understand is why some cranks are so bloody expensive. I am not after the weight too much, but want to understand what makes a good crank. Is it the stiffness, so it does not flex and you transfer more power onto the chain?

Cheap, light strong – pick 2.
If it’s a 2x the chainling might not be perfect but there are spacers and depending on your BB you can adjust it.
Up from deore you are making it lighter and or stronger. Good luck finding flex in some but there is a chunk of lard on the cheap stuff that costs money to replace.

XT cassette I get, but what are the benefits of an XT mech over an SLX? They are vulnerable components so I wouldn’t want to mangle an expensive XT on a rock (maybe you aren’t as clumsy as me 😆 ).

Edit – ignore me – not much price difference in it these days it seems!

The crankset I’ve got just now is Shimano FC-M627: http://www.tredz.co.uk/.Shimano-Deore-FC-M627-10-Speed-Chainset_92590.htm

You do know that crank is for a boost rear spacing, apologies if you know, thought it best to ask?

XT cassette I get, but what are the benefits of an XT mech over an SLX? They are vulnerable components so I wouldn’t want to mangle an expensive XT on a rock (maybe you aren’t as clumsy as me ).

Edit – ignore me – not much price difference in it these days it seems!

It’s on an XC bike, so less likely to get bashed! But yeah, the price difference is not that much.

You do know that crank is for a boost rear spacing, apologies if you know, thought it best to ask?

That’s that came on my Scott Scale 950 2016: https://www.evanscycles.com/scott-scale-950-2016-mountain-bike-EV253341

I am not entirely sure regarding the boost rear spacing, I am a bit newbie in this area…

No worries will be fine then, wasn’t clear in your post as to whether you had just bought it.

Yeah I see what you mean :(. I’ll see how I get on with that.

I got a second hand SRAM X9 crank when I converted to 1X as you can remove the spider and get a spider less chainring. That way the chain line is bang on and it looks cooler and is a bit lighter too. A second had crank might look a bit tatty with some heal scuff’s on the arm and maybe a graze or two on the end of the crank arm from rock strikes, but it’s all cosmetic. You can probably get spider less cranks lower down the SRAM product line now (X7 or X5?) i’m not sure. I can’t get too excited about spending alot on a crank especially since the weight saving is minuscule. I’d rather have the robustness.

Cranks do get expensive

IMHO, once you hit a minimum point (say Deore) you’re really only getting marginal gains in weight, nicer looks and a bit of kudos. Unless you’re some kind of mental rider extra strength hardly matters (an XTR crank isn’t stronger than a Deore but is lighter)

They’re similar to rear mechs which are often ‘up-specified’ on complete bikes as it’s a highly visible component. In reality the difference in function between Deore / SLX / XT is pretty marginal and the money would be better spent on better wheels or tyres. But who looks at tyres when buying a new bike?

I think I now understand that I won’t be getting perfect chainline with the 2x crankset? I suppose I could fit spacers, but that’s some dark art for me so far.

It seems like all Shimano cranksets are now 96 PCD, making them incompatible with the more ubiquitous 104 BCD fitting (so I could get 32T NW chainring).

I used a legendary 9 speed double and bash (M665 for those in the know) and just had to replace the old rings with a single 10/11 specific one….easy peasy.

You could just get an 11-42 10sp cassette, then you don’t need a new shifter and mech.

Before I got my X9 crank I ran a 2x crank with the outer ring replace with a bash guard. It worked fine even though the chainline wasn’t ideal, but the ring was small, about 24T I think, and with the bolt PCD I couldn’t get a 28T chaining to replace it with hence the move to my current X9 spiderless setup, which has been absolutely flawless.

I still have an M665 double and bash in the spares box…

Generally: I tend to set an upper limit of £100 or so on a crank when I’m buying. I was using new M675’s for a while – they were a good combination of price, weight and robustness. The finish lasted much better than the 785 XT of the era too. Otherwise, I’m a serial RaceFace second handerer. I was fancying a spiderless setup for my current build, I’d got my eye on Aeffects as that seems to be about as cheap as Cinch cranks come – but through a series of in the right place at the right times ended up with Turbines. 30mm axle is total overkill on an HT, but it’s a lovely set of cranks. I can see this one sticking around a bit 🙂