i JUST CANT GET THE BLOODY THING INDEXED! GRRRRR.

http://www.celebrazio.net/bicycling/shimano_compatibility.html
AND crc SAY ITS COMPATIBLE.

bUT THE FIRST SHIFT JUST DOESNT PULL ENOUGH CABLE…

aNYONE ELSE GOT THIS COMBO?

The 5600 105 stuff isn’t compatible with the 6700 stuff as far as I know.

I think it’s to do with the ‘600 bit and the ‘700 bit. Something to do with the pull ratios.

The newer 105 5700 kit doesn’t work with the older 1054 5600 series so i guess it’s the same for the Ultegra 6700 etc. a 5700 should work with a 6700 though.

The derailleur doesn’t care what speed it is. I’ve got a Dura Ace 7800 derailleur on an old 9 speed Tiagra system working fine at the moment.

Regardless the 5600 system is 10 speed.

Checked the cable is free and clean and not jamming on anything? Is it just the first shift that struggles?
If you’ve put enough cable tension in for the rest of the shifts but it’s just that one struggling it could be a bent hanger.

The derailleur doesn’t care what speed it is.

Yes, but it does matter what the pull ratio is (ie how much it moves for a given about of cable pull).

Odd, I thought the gears were compatible it was just the brakes had a different cable pull between x600 and x700? Not tried it myself though.

There is no pull ratio change between 9 and 10 speed systems. Theres just smaller gaps between the gears (which is controlled by the shifter).

EDIT: In fact I’m fairly confident there’s no change with an 8 speed system either.

Its compatible.

You are using Shimano cables…….

There is no compatibility problem. The move from x600 to x700 only affected brake pull.

Mech limit screws set correctly?

there is a good methodical guide to setting up gears on parktools site. I thought I was fairly good at it but there step by step instructions mean I get it right first time in about half the time I used to.

There is no pull ratio change between 9 and 10 speed systems. Theres just smaller gaps between the gears (which is controlled by the shifter).

EDIT: In fact I’m fairly confident there’s no change with an 8 speed system either.

For Shimano road stuff that’s right, but as said, that’s a function of the cable pull, not specifically the number of clicks the shifter has. 10 speed MTB stuff is not compatible with anything else. Nor is SRAM stuff, 9 or 10 speed, which itself is not cross-compatible.

There is no compatibility problem. The move from x600 to x700 only affected brake pull.

And front mechs. But yes that combination will work. Checked your mech hanger?

Works fine on my cx bike 🙂

Cheers for all the replys – Well The limit stops are setup correctly, Gear changes are still not quite right though. Went out for a ride this evening.

Its ridable but not perfect.

The only way of describing what the probem is that when the chain is on the 11 tooth sprocket and I click up one gear the mech does not move. only on the second click then all the gears work. It goes down to the 11 tooth perfectly but not up.

The cable is tight.

I’ll have another look tommorrow.

Is your mech hanger straight?

Yes brand new Planet X N2A. 105 5600 mech works.

Daft question, is one for 9 speed and the other 10 speed?

both 10speed.

this is the rear mech:

http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Models.aspx?ModelID=40591

In grey.

Daft question, is one for 9 speed and the other 10 speed?

No, they’re both 10 speed, but even if one was 9 speed they should still work perfectly.

Just found a review on the CRC site:

Anonymous from United Kingdom Owner 13 August 2011 21:45
Bought this to replace a RD 5600 , however it is not compatable with 5600 STI shifters.

I think im going to bung it in the LBS tomorrow.
Got a busy day and weekend and just want it sorted.

If it’s of interest, I have a 5700 mech with 5500 shifters and it’s fine.

Assuming the cables are new, have you checked that there’s no friction anywhere? (Release the cable from the mech, push/pull it through each section a bit by hand – it should be nice and free-moving). An untidy cut of the outer or a sticky bend round the bars can cause problems at the high end of the cassette.

A good starting point is generally to ensure that the shift from first (biggest sprocket) to second drops ok, with the chain just clearing the bigger sprocket once it’s dropped into second. If that’s good then you’re good within a turn of the barrel adjuster.